THE SOUTH SEA ISLAND TRIP.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXV, Issue 10836, 20 August 1898, Page 1 (Supplement)

THE SOUTH SEA ISLAND TRIP.

_^— $_ — THE CRUISE OF THE WAIKARE. No. HI. iBY in.] A SAMOAN DANCE. As ail invitation had come from Prince Salanoa Mulingi-so he styled himself—for the passengers of the Waikare to attend a siva (dance) at 10 a.m., two of us next morning asked an English-speaking lad to conduct us to the chief's falle or dwelling. As we strolled through a pleasant village of ovalshaped pretty native houses, we were invited five or six times to enter different falles, thus showing the Samoans are a very hospitable people. In one house, a really fine one, we' were refreshed with fruit as we sat, as our entertainers sat cross-legged on the guest mat. I thought what an ideal tea-house such a one as that perfectly-made falle would be in a New Zealand, or perhaps better, an Australian garden. The roof diverging in graceful curves from a ridge pole, its bamboo or hybiseas bars and cross-bars, the neat plaiting in the inside of the thatch, the wall mats (in the fine weather, rolled up) and the raised pebble floor covered with mats, would be a picturesque addition to one's place. We watched with interest a little hunchbuck roll up an empty bottle in malting and then pause. He had waited for the three merry-looking girls who entered shortly afterwards. They wore one garment each, a tappa (bark beaten into a' paper-like material) petticoat, as it were. Chili beans aud fringelike leaves formed necklets and anklets for their adornment. They sat side by side and looked wistfully towards the hunchback, who immediately responded by applying the sticks alternately to the rolled-up matting. Then the girls smilingly let their knees slightly rise and fall, and worked their arms, hands, and sometimes fingers in graceful rhythm with the feeble rat-a-tat-tat. Their mood changed, and springing to their feet, the prettiest one (a deaf and dumb gitl) seized an old umbrella and held it like a bat whilst one of the other girls threw an imaginary ball, the effort causing her to twist round after each throw. This imaginary and poetical game of cricket was danced very tastefully.

We thanked our kind host, and then proceeded to the chiefs falle. The chief was a large, good-natured-looking man, simply clad i'i a. lava-lava (cloth wound about his loins). As he wore nothing to distinguish him from the lowest in his household, we concluded we must have surprised him in his morning dishabille. We were initiated into the mysteries of kava-drinking— which more anon— then were shown some valuable papers. They were stamped and sealed copies of original printed letters from the Rear-Ad-miral of the U.S. Navy and the U.S. President thanking Senmanatfa, chief of Apia (he was not the chief we were in search of after all), for his gallantry in saving life from the men-of-war during the terrible gale of 1888.

Later on we met the prince of the Siva entertainment, and he wore a disconsolate air. He told us sadly, that very few had accepted his invitation; we promised him that more would attend on the morrow if he felt disposed to give another exhibition. Next morning he himself conducted us to the right spot, and we were all glad that the Siva had been repeated. KAVA The ceremony of kava-drinking in Salanoa's house preceded the dancing. We had to wait for two brewings of the liquor. A root looking like a piece of wood was pounded, and then put in a wooden bowl, and placed before a younj; girl. Water from a calabash was pouted over the pounded kava-root, and the presiding genius proceeded to clarify the fluid of all stringy bits by twisting some hybiscus fibre round and round, squeezing it, and then giving it to the stalwart fellow at, her: side to shake clear of the debris. She performed this process two or threo times, and then smiled. Straightway everybody clapped hands, and' then the drinking-bowl was presented to each visitor. Had the drinkers all been natives, their names would have been pronounced in order of precedence, and after each had completed his bowlful of the precious stimulant, he would have spun it back towards tho main bowl. We saw this done the previous day at Seumanutafa falls. To return to Tuesday morning's kava-drinking. One young lady of an inquiring disposition partook of her' two sips lingeringly and reflectively, and then said in her deliberate way," It tastes of a mixture of soap, a little slate pencil, a few drops of ink, and a soupcon of ginger." A WAR DANCE. I must not dwell on the siva. Suffice it to say that six men performed a 'warriors' dance, throwing and catching their booked, dangerous-looking swords the while they danced most dexterously; and that later three girls, one the taupo (or chief girl) of the village, and a few more men joined them in a less-vigorous dance. The taupo's plump body was brilliant with cocoanut oil, and she wore from her waist a lavc-lave. Her head-dress was fearfully and wonderfully made of human hair, its different shades testifying to its having been despoiled from more than one head. Three round mirrors, perhaps a shade larger than crown pieces, from which stood three high projections, adorned the front of it. How that taupo fancied herself! And how jealously did a non-dancing girl glare at her from the distance !

The British Consul told us how' the doctrine of communism obtains in Samoa, and how to a large extent it destroys an incentive to work. As an example of this common property custom, lie said that a lady friend of his'had paid a servant his month's wages, and that he had just got outside bis mistress' gate when a relative of the youth's demanded, and, in consequence of the asking, received, the whole of the pay. At the end of the following month the servant begged for clothes in lieu of money. To quote another case. A family had been engaged for some considerable time building a boat of unusual merit. No sooner was it completed than a relative desired it, and as a consequence got it, and a few months' afterwards sent it back to the builders to be repaired. Our stay, at Apia was most interesting, and our experiences there would fill a book if all were faithfully related. Visits made to Stevenson's house; his tomb, on Mount Vaca; the German cocoanut plantation; the sliding rock, down which some of our girl passengers with much intrepidity hurled themselves; and to the beautifully-situated village of Vailele must, for the present, remain nnrecounted. I met a lady botanist, who very much regretted the fact that there was no book to be procured giving information as to the names of Upolu's beautiful trees. In reply to my question, she told me that from her own observations she had learnt that the clear-cut buttress-like supports were not peculiar to the trunk of one special kind of tree, but to many. There are only one or two deciduous trees, and the vi-tree, with its soft, vivesent foliage, lent its lightest of greenery to the darker trees of the surrounding forest with much advantage. ■j ' FESTIVITIES ON BOARD SIUF. On Tuesday evening a most enjoyable dance was given on board, and 196 invitations were sent to Apian residents. The visitors were delighted with the music, the ballroom, and.the supper. The pillars of ice, enclosing flowers and fruit, which stood 'on several tables it suppertime, evolved much admiration, especially from the guests, as ice is not manufactured in Samoa. When all had partaken of the good things served in the saloon, a native dance induced us to return straight to the after-deck. -: About 30 youths and maidens took part in the Siva, and another taupo, dressed similarly to the taupo of the morning performance, occupied the central position. ,' '-• / > '■': •. ■v On'. Wednesday . evening the captain of the German man-o'-war Buzzard showed as many of ■: our passengers as v could be accommodated in five boats, an attention which ; we appreciated thoroughly. About half-past nine we descended the gangway, and when the last boat had received its complement'. we moved away in procession, the boats being connected withlines, the adI vance one doing the propelling. The string

band from the Waikare's deck played us off, and then proceeded rich music from the German band, which occupied the first and rowing boat. The night was calm and lovely, and I felt like part of a dream. Those that had not come told us afterwards that the line of boats, with their lantern decorations, reflected in the still water, looked very lovely from the deck of the Waikaie. The Buzzard, the John Williams, and the Waikare let off fireworks, and some were occasionally sent from our rowing boats. The captain'indulged us with champagne and American candies. We left Apia's crescent-shaped bay at midnight. : ' THE TOXGAN GROUP. '■ Sydney harbour is nothing to this," asserted some of our New South Wales passengers, who. until now, had believed the bay to be the finest in the world. The approach to Vavau. is wonderfully beautiful, with its wealth of vari-shaped islands. Some in their curious • conformations bore resemblance to animals, whilst here and there a solitary seagirt tree would assert itself. Those islands to the outside of the group evidently considered themselves the protectors of the inner ones, which. instead of presenting stony sides, were clad in peaceful-looking foliage to the water's edge. One of the guardians exhibited an extensive length of front, like unto the ancient wall of a castle. We dropped anchor opposite to the town of Nciafu early on Saturday morning. White European houses, a very few native huts, and scattered tall trees threw long lines of shadow across park-like swards, which sloped down to the pebbly beach. After breakfast, a lady passenger, who had a pre-knowledge of the place, conducted us to a vantage point from where we obtained a glorious panoramic view. ' We passed orange trees, fruit-laden, all the way. There were not many natives in evidence, and, asking the reason, we were told that most of the inhabitants were away fruit-gathering. The Tongan dwellings differ from the Sanioan ones in that they are smaller, and that the walls are closed with woven reeds. We visited the Free Church, and the magnitude, sweep, and beauty of the thatched roof called forth the sincerest admiration from us. Our stay in Neiafu harbour was short, for at four o'clock in the afternoon we started for a cave that we were desirous to see. The cave pleased everybody. Fight boats were accommodated inside at the same time, and there was still room for more. The arched roof, culminating in a lofty dome, supported fringes and tassels of wonderfully-coloured stalactites. The walls projected in queer shapes, or else receded into niches. One recess held a stalagmite, which, when struck with an oar, yielded a rich, resonant ring like a cathedral bell. Different velvety shades of greens merging into blues, striped and spotted with fawn, cream, and white, coloured the walls and arches. The watery floor, ranging from deep tones of indigo opacity to the most glorious transparent cobalt, is a thing to be seen and not described. The last boat was elevated to its davits, and then we went on our way, passing between reefs and islands until on the next morning (Sunday) we arrived at Nukualofa, the chief village of Tonga's most southerly large island, Tongatabu. At midnight, by-and-by, I was awakened, at my request, to see the volcanic island, Kao. From its crater it emitted a great volume of steam, which hung round a quarter of the horizon like a cloud. The sea on the way to Nukualofa reminded me of the Torres Straits, with its number of low-lying islands in different stages of growth. We cared less for the last visited place than any other we had seem' The most inferior roads were rendered impassable for driving by reason of the recent heavy rains, so that we were denied seeing two objects of interest, the trilithou and the sacred toa tree. Concerning the latter, a Tongatabu resident told us that he had recently seen the tree, which stood on an old grave of a chief in the centre of the village. From its branches depended over a thousand flying foxes, which are not allowed to be driven (or in any way harmed) from the sacred tree. -"Two days ago," he said, "a chief died, and it is reported in Nukualofa that the sacred toa is utterly forsaken, as is always the case on the death of a chief. The Hying foxes, however, will return to the tree as soon as the great man is interred." He spoke, strangely enough, with an air of conviction. ' King George 11. disappointed us greatly. The Waikare had brought his intended bride's wedding garments from Sydney, and we hoped to see the ceremony. We arrived in Nukualofa to learn that he was indisposed with- influenza and that he has not yet arrived at a decision as to whom he will marrv. The dusky monarch is 24 years of age, weighs close on 23 stone', stands 6ft 4in in his stockings, and measures 52in round the chest. He lives in a beautiful house, •which was built in Sydney, and sent to Nukualofa in portions; and he enjoys an annuity of £1600 a year, and he gets more from his government when he needs it. So, what with impassable roads and an indisposed king, we did not obtain much in the way of experiences in Tongatabu. Next morning picnic parties rowed away to different islands, and returned to the boat in the afternoon with treasures of sea-shells (gathered on the beautiful beaches), fruit, flowers, and contented hearts. We are now in Auckland harbour, and we all feel that a most interesting chapter in the story of our lives is closed.