A 'CYCLING TOUR THROUGH THE NORTH ISLAND.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXI, Issue 9611, 8 September 1894, Page 1 (Supplement)

A 'CYCLING TOUR THROUGH THE NORTH ISLAND.

No. 11. [BY H. Y. EDMONDS.] I made a stay of five days in Napier, and in company with Mr. A. C. Norris, the affable secretary of the Napier Wanderers' 'Cycling Club, thoroughly inspected every place of interest and amusement in the vicinity. Mr. Norris and I rode round the township of Taradale and also Meanee, which are very neat-looking places. Meanee had, a short time before my arrival, been flooded with water owing to the heavy rains, but was quite dry when I was there. I thought Napier a pleasant town, although business appeared somewhat dull commercially speaking ; doubtless suffering from the universal depression. The inhabitants are fortunate in having a wellconstructed promenade all along the seashore, where the air may be taken, and where the rolling sea may be watched as far as the eye can reach, broken only by Capo Kidnappers lying away to the right. Napier has some very good public buildings, notably the Post and Telegraph Office, the Criterion and Masonic Hotels, and the Working Men's Club. There are also excellent gardens and reserves. The Athletic Associations Park is without doubt one of the finest in New Zealand, and the track is a splendid one for 'cycling. I did some training on it, and cannot praise it too highly. lb is formed of a kind of binding sand, and when well web and rolled, presents an excellent surface for 'cycle racing. I believe the Napier athletes intend to endeavour to have the next championship meeting held there, and I hope they may meet with success in their endeavours. EN ROUTE ONCE MORE. On the Tuesday morning next following my arrival in Napier I made a start northwards, Mr. Norris very kindly offering to accompany me some miles on my journey, which offer I was very pleased indeed to accept. We started early, and after battling Against 'a' head wind reached Patane, seven or eight miles from Napier, where we breakfasted. We then made a fresh start, and after a bit of hill climbing and fording one river, arrived within a few miles of Pohui, where Mr. Norris parted company with me and returned to Napier. I was very sorry to say good-bye, for the Wanderers' worthy secretary had done his best to make my sojourn in Napier enjoyable. At Pohui, when I arrived there, it was raining heavily. After lunch I set out again up the hills, and after a very unpleasant time of it, through mud sometimes over a foot deep, arrived at Mohaka. Between Pohui and Mohaka the roads ware —with one exception, to be mentioned later onthe worst experienced until I reached Auckland. I had to carry my machine on my back and struggle through the heavy mud—no joke in the pouring rain—up steep slippery hills, and in smoothsoled 'cycling shoes. Half-way up tho hills between Pohui and Mohaka I overtook a man with a van and five horses toiling up the ascent. It was fearful work for the poor beasts, and one of them had just dropped dead as I arrived, the strain having been too much for him.

At the Mohaka Hotel I was made as comfortable as could be expected in such an out-of-the-way locality, and in the morning, after thoroughly washing my machine in the Mohaka River and generally oiling up, I set my wheel towards Tarawera, and after a rathe-; long spell of more hill climbing reached that place at half-past eleven a.m. Here I partook of an early lunch at the Coach and Horses Hotel, and proceeded on my way towards Runanga. Before leaving Tarawera I called at the telegraph office, where there was a telegram waitingfor me from Mr. Norris, saying he had arrived at Napier after a pleasant ride. I wired back, and then we commenced a system of telegraphing to each other at all the important places at which I arrived. ARRIVAL AT LAKE TAOI'O. At Tarawera the first hot springs are found, and all the way to Rotorua the hills and roads are 'formed of pumice. Mile after mile of pumice has to be travelled over until one begins to sigh for a bit of road metal. But one sighs in vain, for never a bit of atone on the roads is seen until Merceraway up towards Auckland —is reached. Between Tarawera and Runanga there is some more hill climbing, and some of the most magnificent scenery in New Zealand is passed through. The road runs right through the heart of the bush, and at soma places the eights wero so stupendously entrancing that I stood gazing on them in rapture. The 'cyclist who is a photographer will find some views in this region worth coming any number of miles to obtain. Just before Runanga is in sight there are some very fine falls to be witnessed, and the noise of the roaring waters is quite impressive. Shortly after passing these falls I reached Runanga, a small place on the main coach road, and thence I proceeded to Rangitaiki. where I put up for the night at the Rangitaiki Hotel. This is a rather lonely spot, and consists of but a house or two and the hotel. At'the hotel are the coach stables, where horses are changed in connection with the coach service between Napier and Rotorua. The' next morning I made a start for Taupo, and here began what I had more than enough of before reaching Rotoruaviz., deep sand. The road is composed of nothing but sand, sand, sand, as far as the eye can see. The poor coach horses must have rather a hard time of it ploughing through mile after mile of this stuff. On the Rangitaiki Plains I saw a very large number of wild horses, and they thundered across the plains at a great pace on catching sight of me and the machine. Ib was raining when .' I left Rangitaiki. and I was completely drenched when I arrived at Taupo. At the Terrace Hotel, Lake Taupo, I had some refreshment, and then inspected the hot springs, etc., and enjoyed an iron bath, which pub a wonderful amount of fresh vigour into me. The sensation when one comes in full view of - these hot springs, t with the steam rising thickly everywhere, is a most peculiar one. The air if! noticeably heavy with the fumes of sulphur, and reminds one vary forcibly of what we are given to understand Hades is like. At Taupo the strange sight of gold fishes living in warm-very warm—water may be witnessed. How they live and apparently thrive in this generally—" fish—uncongenial element, impregnated with sulphur - as ib is, is a mystery. . ■> . , . .

, IN THE WONDERLAND. From Taupo I proceeded through Tapuw&eharura, the township, over the Waikato River to Wairakei — the, in my opinion, real Wonderland of New Zealand. Before reaching Wairakei I paused to view the noble mountains of Ruapehu and Tongariro, and to take an extensive view of Lake Taupo itself. The Lake is between 25 and 30 miles long, and 20 broad in the widest part. There is one small island—Motutaiko — the lake. All the country round Taupo is of volcanic construction, and the soil appears to be mostly pumice and sand. Just before coming to Wairakei I passed Te Huka Falls—one of the most wonderful falls in New Zealand. The Waikato River flows serenely along until the falls'' are reached, when it is all at once changed into a seething roaring cataract. The colour of the water is mosb peculiar, and the same hue permeates the whole river. It is of a very vivid blue, and the sight of the river sweeping on with a blue tint predominating over all is very beautiful indeed. There is a tragic history connected with Te Huka Falls, which I give for the benefit of those of my readers who are unacquainted with the legend. STORY OF TE HUKA FALLS. A long time ago a party of natives came from the Wanganui district on a visit to the Maoris residing at Taupo. They were very vain of the manner in which they could skim over any rapids they ever saw. The Taupoites naturally became rather tired of their everlasting "blow," and intimated that they knew of some rapids the Wanganui gentlemen would nob care to tackle. The Wanganui chief, who rejoiced in the aristocratic designation of Tamateapokaiwhenua, replied thab he rather reckoned his warriors were fly enough for anything, and he would jusb like to see the rapid they could not shoot. So the Taupoites smiled pleasantly and led the way to the upper part of Te Huka, where the water is perfectly smooth. The Tamateaand the rest of it—pulled rather long faces ab bhe sight of Te Huka, bub they were not going to bo laughed at, so they embarked in a stout canoe and set off on their undertaking. The canoe went along splendidly ab first, and successfully passed one or two small rapids, and the Wangar uites made derisive reflections on the Taupoites, and gave them to understand that any fool could guide a canoe over these insignificant rapids. When, however, the canoe neared the real rapid the faces of the Taupoites wore a sweet smile, whilst those of the Tamateapokaiwhenuans visibly lengthened, but their regrets were too late, for the canoe was drawn into the roaring foaming torrent, and the poor boastful Maoris disappeared for ever, and nothing was ever after seen of the seventy warriors who had seb out so gaily to shoot the rapids of Te Huka. ARRIVAL AT WAIRAKEI. About a mile from Wairakei the road is very much downhill, and, when I was there, extremely muddy, but in summer I should fancy ib would be all right. I arrived ab Wairakei aboub midday, and after divesting myself of my web clothes and making myself rather more comfortable, I accompanied the guide in order to inspect the wonders of the place. Many travellers are going out of the main coach road to visit Wairakei, and well are they repaid for their trouble. The visitors' book contains a number of names, some of high rank. There is a guide fee of 5s payable to see the sights, and tho time required to inspecb everything thoroughly takes from three to four hours. One advantage of Wairakei over Whakarewarewa and Rotorua is that the wonders are nearly all in a comparatively small compass. THE SIGHTS AT WAIRAKEI. After a climb over a rather steep bib of hill country the guide conducted me to the various wonders. I do nob remember the order in which I viewed the sights, but I noted down the following amongst others : —Tahuatahi: A very powerful geyser. Terekereke: Another geyser, where everything—twigs, stones, leaves —is incrusted with a silicious substance. There is also a spring which very rapidly petrifies anything submitted to its action. The Crow's Nest is a peculiar large round-shaped hole composed of stones and twigs, all petrified, in exact imitation of an enormous nest. The fidelity to nature is marvellous. Then 1 saw the Boiling Mud Holes, which are of various colours; on© I noticed was milk vhite, another of a thick greyish colour, and yet another a red one, like thick red paint. This boiling mud has much the appearance of a quantity of very hob porridge steaming and bubbling in every direction. After inspecting the Mud Holes tije guide showed me the Steam-hammer, the Torpedo, the Donkey - engine, the Lightning Pool, and the Devil's Tollgate. At the Donkey-engine the ground shakes very much indeed, rendering it almost difficult to keep a firm footing. The sound is very much like that of a donkeyengine in full work. I was also shown Great Wairakei, a very large and powerful geyser, and various boiling springs and pools. There is also the hot river Waipuwerawera, and Wairakei, which flow through the locality into the Waikato, where of course they become cold. They are very hot indeed; in fact, I could hardly credit they were so warm until I plunged my hand in to test the temperature ; I soon withdrew it, as the water almost took the skin off. In the early morning one might fancy the river to be cold, and the steam arising from the water to be mist. Before going to rest I was guided to what I believe Mrs. Graham called tho Alum Fall Bath, which is a fall of hot water from the river. The weight of the fall has made a large and deep pool at the base, where one can swim about before going under the fall itself. The sensation experienced by using this valuable bath is extremely invigorating, and the effect lasts for a considerable time. A FRESH START. On rising on the following morning ! (Friday) I had another bath, and after breakfast turned my wheel towards Rotorua. The road from Wairakei on is very heavy indeed, being composed of sand and some mud all the way to Rotorua. I passed several Maori, pas, and the expressions of wonder used by the inhabitants at sight of my machine were very amusing. Hardly one' of them had ever 3een a 'cycle, and until I explained the "working" to them they almost treated ib as an aim (god). Prom Wairakei for some distance along the road steam arises in all directions, and the banks through which the road has been cut are composed of igneous clay of many colours. At about half-past eleven o'clock 1 reached Ateamuri, the only place between Wairakei and Rotorua, from which ib is distant some 35 odd miles. Ateamuri is situated on the banks of the Waikato River. Ib is a "port of call" for the through coaches. Here I had lunch, and then proceeded on my way. I mufib nob, however, omit bo mention Pohaturoa, a high verbicle rock, rising 300 feet, sheer out of the ground. They told me ab Ateamuri that years ago what was left of a defeated tribe fled to the summit of this rock and lived there a week eating fern roots. At the end of bhet period the besiegers gave up the siege and left them free to come down. The road from Ateamuri is now up hill for a short distance, when it : becomes flat for some miles and then again becomes hilly for a very long way indeed,,rendering travelling very hard work indeed. After yetting over this hill the road is once more flat, with occasional undulations. Bub whether hilly or flab the road is always made of either deep sand or mud. About 20 miles from Rotorua I overtook some Maoris jogging along very comfortably on horseback, of whom I asked the distance to Rotorua, and they said, after long and grave consideration, "nine miles." I expected they would not know; I only asked them to hear their reply. Some time before sighting Rotorua Horohoro (Fallen Fallen) comes into prominence. It is a long and very peculiarly formed mountain, level on the top and with steep sides. After going some considerable distance further on I came to the mountain Moerangi, towering towards the skies. Then the Whistling Stream or Waikarowhiti, which is a rapid creek that roars through the Hemo Gorge. [To be continued.]