LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 9307, 16 September 1893, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

LONDON FASHIONS. It appears that black satin—which, during the hob weather, enjoyed a considerable amount of patronageis (says a London fashion writer) to be more worn than ever. I prefer it unpatterned, though brocaded satin is favoured most by stoub women and those- who have passed their first youth. Surah of good quality is preferable to the thicker makes of satin and silk. The at one time great merib of standing alone is no longer considered the chief virtue of silk goods. Very pretty was a dress of soft black satin, spotted with bird'seye spots in blue, pink, and yellow, and worn with a kilted lisse bonnet, having up standing jetted butterfly by way of ornament, together with a bunch of pink roses. THE SERB AND YELLOW LEAF-TIME. As the autumn approaches I notice an ever-increasing tendency to eschew the loose, airy style that was naturally acceptable during the intense heat of the past ten weeks. In place of the loose blouse of silk or cambric worn with tiny Zouave open coat, or Eton jacket, we see the close-fittin" vest of drill or Tattersall cloth ; or, if silk blouse, it is made with crossover fronts that do not tie at the back, thus avoiding the knot which does not look well beneath the long semifitting coats which have almost entirely replaced short jackets of every description. Some of the newest coats are made doublebreasted, and are fastened across the chest with largo horn buttons, but these coats are so arranged that they can be worn open if desired. BUTTON'S. Apropos to buttons, 1 see velvet-covered buttons are being used, and when the trimming of the dress is velvet —say, revere or shoulder frills—it is customary to employ, buttons to correspond as means of fastening the bodice ; and instead of sash or belt a roll of velvet or twisted ribbon will finish the pointed bodice the edge is piped with velvet. Tabs and vandyke points are likoly to become fashionable. Some of tho gowns in the Duchess of York's trousseau had the corsages finished with tabs and scollops. 1 THE GLASS OF FASHION". For tho present, at least, there is no Suestion that the toilets of the young 'uchess will greatly influence present fashions. However, as Her Royal Highness has always affected the neat modes dear to the taste of her royal mother-in-law, the Princess of Wales, nothing that is distinctly outre is to be expected. ATTRACTIVK TRIFLES. Among dainty trifles designed to add trifles of colour to gowns admitting such decoration is a detachable collar-band of folded silk, which is laid over the permanent collar of a gown. The supplemental bund fastens with a smart little rosetto of silk at the back of the neck. When sleeves aro made tight to the wrist corresponding bauds with smaller rosettes are worn. These bands are very easily made ; tho silk of which they aro fashioned need not be of the best quality, and a simple tight-fitting bodice can be relieved as regards colour, and very inexpensively smartened by the means suggested. SDN"BURNT STRAW. Of all recent innovations in straw millinery the sunburnt straw hats and bonnets are certainly the most acceptable, and they are likely to maintain their popularity. Sailor-shape hats are made of this straw. It is more dressy than coloured straws, and more durable than bleached straws are, and, as novelty always carries weight, I suggest for seaside or country wear a sailor hat of sunburnt straw. Happily, the term " sailor hat" may now bo liberally translated. It does not mean tho low crown and narrow brim at one time sole characteristics of this make of hats. There are many modifications of this severity of the style; brims are wider or narrower, level or more or less turned up from the face. Crowns are high, medium, or low, and a small boat-shape often proves becoming where tho sailor shape does not. BY PERMISSION OF FASHION'. Fashion's approval has often tho power of annihilating prejudice, and matrons who formerly would have incurred ridiculo by its adoption can now wear safely on the coast, or when yachting, fishing, or boating, the utility head-gear I describe. Nothing could be more inconsistent on such occasions than a hat or bonnet, the trimming of which, be it ribbon, feathers, or flowers, is under bondage to the weather. A brisk wind, a sudden shower, a dash of spray, and tho fanciful erection of millinery collapses like a house of cards, and is far less easily reconstructed.