THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8360, 13 September 1890, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

FLOWER GARDEN. Shrubs and trees that were transplanted" during the planting season will require to bo looked to, as many that have not been securely staked, if sufficiently large to feel the effects of the high winds experienced during the latter part of this week, will have been sadly blown about, and much injured in consequence. It is at this season that the necessity of staking trees and plants that are large enough to form an obstacle to the wind is apparent. Irreparable damage is done the plant, as the young fibrous roots that have been made will be broken by the working of the top backwards and forwards, and if the ground at the time is very wet, a socket is formed in which the stem works. Any trees, therefore, that may be found in this condition must receive immediate attention. The surface soil around the trees should be loosened a little, and the trees placed in an upright position, firmly treading the soil around the roots, securely stake, and afterwards place a little loose soil around the stem, or, better still, mulch with a little grass or long strawy manure. The value of staking newly-planted trees cannot be overestimated, as it prevents them from straining the roots when the wind blows. The clipping of any evergreen hedges that requite trimming should be attended to at once before they start into young growth. This applies particularly to hedges composed of thujas, cupressus, and other conifers. Such are injured if cut after they have made their young growth. This is a matter that seldom receives the consideration that the natural requirement of the plant forming the hedge demands. Now that the season is advancing and the days are longer, the action of the sun has much more effect upon the soil, rendering it more friable and easy to work, and consequently in better condition for the sowing of annuals and the transplanting of those that have been raised in pots or boxes, us previously recommended, such as asters, stocks, zinnias, and many others A good supply of annuals is invaluable in every garden, as they give an abundance of flowers from spring until late in the autumn, provided a proper selection is made to suit the different seasons. Of late years annuals have to a certain extent taken the place of the old orthodox bedding plants. KITCHEN' GARDEN. Work in this department will now be brisk, as the present is a suitable time for stocking the ground with a generality of crops. The main crop of potatoes should be planted at once, and the various other crops for succession should be sown ; seed of pumpkins and vegetable marrows may also now bo sown, and a few hills with cucumber seed. But do not attempt the sowing out doors of rock, water, or piemelons, as many years of experience have taught me that too early sowing of these is time and labour lost. Jerusalem artichokes should now be planted. They are of easy culture, but require room to develop properly. Hence plant in rows three feet apart and not less than eighteen inches between the tubers in the rows. Carefully watch all seedling crops that are coming up, and hoe between the rows during favourable weather to loosen the surface crust, and to destroy seedling weeds.

THE ORCHARD. The heavy gales experienced during the last few days will have had a damaging effect upon newly-planted trees, especially in exposed situations, unless the precaution has been token to have them all securely staked. This should always be done as soon as possible after the planting is completed. Young trees soon commence to make new roots after being planted, and consequently are soon damaged by the action of the wind if left unprotected. The best method of staking newly-planted trees is by driving two strong sticks firmly into the ground, one on each side of tree, and to fasten the tree between them, first placing a piece of sacking, straw, or other soft material around the trees to prevent chafing. By this means the tree is held firmly in position until the roots obtain a firm hold. The whole of the trees should at once receive a good mulching with coarse stable manure, garden refuse, or other material. A good thick layer being placed around each tree. This will protect the earth around the roots from becoming too dry, and give the trees a much better chance to establish themselves. 'Trees, too, that are in a good fruit-bearing condition should have every encouragement given them. A wide circle should be dug up around each tree, and a good thick layer of manure placed around them. This should be done before the dry weather sets in. The rains will then carry the strength of the manure to the roots, while the latter will act as a mulch, and prevent the surface from becoming dry. Trees that have been headed back during the winter should now be" re-grafted. Care should be taken to procure the grafts from trees that have fruited and are known to be the variety wanted. The operation of grafting is very simple, and can be success-

fully performed by anyone having a little knowledge of the work. A very simple method of grafting, and the one that is generally practised, is called whip-tongue grafting, so-called from an upward cub made in tho scion, forming a tongue, a downward cut being made in the stock into which the tongue is inserted and holds the graft in position. But a still more simple method, especially for those who have had no practice in this work, is rind-grafting— that is, a smooth sloping cub is made through the base of the scion, and, instead of the stock being cut as with other grafts, a slit is made in the bark at the top of the stock and the bark slightly raised and the scion inserted under the bark. If the trees are larcje two or three may be placed upon each branch. As soon as the grafts are placed in position they should be firmly tied and the wound carefully covered with wax or prepared clay. I have grafted a great number of large trees in this way, and scarcely had a failure. Kisros.