LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8360, 13 September 1890, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

PARIS FASHIONS.

Hand-painted India muslin (writes a Paris correspondent of the Ladies' Gazette of Fashion) is a favourite material for smart afternoon dresses. They are generally trimmed with thin white lace of the Alencon typo, two rows of insertion let into the plain skirt, and wide edging to finish it off. The full bodice may have a lace plastron or rows of insertion back and front, the lace sewn on the outer side of the sleeve, puffed on to the shoulder. Knots of inch-wide ribbon velvet are an improvement. I have also seen muslin bodices cub half low and worn with fichus of the same material Batiste, les3 dressy, is also made up with lace. Pink batiste looks extremely well with ecru lace sleeves and plastron ; the skirt may be completed by two or three little flounces sewn on so as to lap one over the other. Very pale blue batiste, too, is charming with white lace. I have seen deep lace arranged on the bodice after the manner of the flounce of a mantelet, gathered down to the waist before and behind, and puffed up on the shoulders with bright blue volvot bows of the fashionable bluet shade. When this is the case a coquilld carried down one side of the skirt is in keeping. For the seaside and the country, Parisians have adopted the English flannel and serge costumes, the lightest tints being preferred, witli fine thread-liko lines of some darker colour. The simplest form is that of the fourreau skirt and bight double-breasted jacket faced with one of the fashionable deep blues or reds. Many others are much more complicated. Thus, a while serge skirt will have three or four bauds of carnation-red woollen round the hem, and the upper pare of the bodice, in the form of a slightly-gathered chemisette, be confined to the figure by a corselet that reaches to the armpits only, and lias no straps over the shoulders. This corselet is made of the serge with four bands of red up it; it is fastened by small pearl buttons under the arm. Another costume of white serge consists of a skirt mounted in wide pleats, forming panels, between which pleatmgs of white silk striped with narrow lines of pink are visible, and serge jacket, loose in front, and burned back with wide lapels. Underneath is worn a blouse of the pink-striped silk confined at the waist by a silver belt, through the insertion of which pink ribbon is drawn. Darker costumes are prepared for cool days. Bonnets are still worn flat and small, with or without strings. If strings are worn thoy are of very narrow velvet, tied in a small neat bow under the chin, the ends fastened back by fancy headed pins, or, if the bonnet is of net, the strings will be of the same edged with luce. The bonnets are worn quite at the back of the head, and as a rule two colours are blended together. A favourite toque bonnet consists simply of two crescentshaped bands covered with velvet, one band higher than the other, trimmed with tips of feathers at the back. A pretty black bonnet is composed of two bands of ruched and frayed ribbon, tied together with narrow strings. A very favourite style at present consists of a bandeau of gold gauze ribbon, the pattern of silver and cord, three small ostrich feathers placed at. the back, the tips curling towards the front. Another, cf pale pink forget-me-nots or other flowers, Distill? on a green tulle ruche, green velvet rings. A largo ha', of crinoline straw has a broad brim in fro'it, brimmed with sweetp;a blossoms in vrrious colours, arranged in rows ; bright green velvet ribbon is threaded through the crinoline.

THE REACTION IN FASHIONS. A decided revolution has taken place in matters of dress, ami we must confess that the most striking changes which have taken place seem to be for the better. The Irishman says that "every change is for the bettor, even when it is for the worse," and though we cannot entirely agree with him in this assertion, which to our minds seems just a little bib too sweeping, we are disposed to welcome the changes in question, for they appear to bo suggested by common sense. What were aptly designated "the extremes of fashion," viz., low foreheads and high heels, arc both happily doomed to the obscurity of past fashions. Curled fringes reaching to the eyebrows and suggestive of Skye terriers arc now relegated to the past in company with pegtop heels, and now we can tell whether our girl friends have any frontal development or not, for the present mode of doing the hair is to comb it upwards from the face, leaving only a soft and much modified fringe of tiny rings or soft fluffy hair to soften the outline.

Hoops are banished and skirts now hang straight down, devoid of that abnormal distension at the back which mado us look as though, not content with Darwin's theory, we wished to claim relationship with the dromedary. Nous avom change lout, cela, and are now content to appear like ordinary, and not extraordinary, human beings. Yet another reaction, and this certainty will tend to the comfort of many who formerly sacrificed ease to fashion. Square-toed boots and shoes— which have always been synonymous with Puritanical staidnoss of demeanour and contempt for what may be designated the pride of life —are once more in fashion. Of late years none but strong-minded women ventured to appear in ckausnure which permitted their toes to have any freedom, and now " the correct thing" is represented by boots and shooes so square at the toes as to have strongly-defined corners. Fashion knows no medium, bub flies from one extreme to another.

In gloves also there is a reaction, and one-button length is said to be coming in. Tins announcement is somewhat startling, for wo are not at all tired with the ambition to exhibit our wrists. Certainly sleeves are lengthened considerably, and no doubt they will come down still further to meet the curtailed gloves. One would almost think that we had returned to the days of sumptuary laws, for all the revolutions which have taken place in the fashions this year are modifications of former ones. Some few years back one-button gloves were being cleared out of the Melbourne shops at very low prices, the best qualities for (id per pair, and now, doubtless, it would be a difficult matter to obtain any at any price, for there has been no demand for them, but if it be true that Fashion has once more set her cachet upon them, they will not bo cheap any more. The good old colours are onco more to the fore, and bright hues are asserting themselves. The crude blues, purples, homely lilacs, rose pinks, and other shades of bygone years are deposing the socalled " Art" tints; and ere long terracotta, vieux rose, "crushed strawberry," "elephant's breath, "and other indescribable colours will have to hang their heads. " Every dog has his day," and we suppose the same truism applies to colours ; and it is many years since bright blues and " puces" have had theirs. An old shade is revived under a new name, and what is known as " aubergino'" is in reality the old plum colour, or a reddish shade of helio-

trope. In evening dress also there are changes. It is now considered outre, to appear in a ballroom devoid of sleeves, and we wonder how it can ever have been thought anything else. Dresses with mere shoulder straps now bear the brand of being oldfashioned ; lisse, crepe de chine, and silk being employed for sleeves, and, although cut up slightly, in many instances displaying the arm a little, that member is now clothed considerably. In millinery there is no happy medium in the spring fashions between the gigantic and the diminutive. The most fashionable styles are enormous hats and tiny floral toques, but of these we shall give illustrations and information later on. When the toque does not appear, an immensely wide brimmed hat will be en evidence.

The reactions in fashion suggest a moral, which should not be lost sight of, viz., that the best course lies in never following the extremes of fashion. No doubt it is often very hard to form a choice and assert one's individuality— dressmakers are so arbitrary. But one may always insist on making one's voice heard on the side of moderation, by declining to let one's raiment be made in the height of an extravagant fashion, and by holding fast to what is becoming, simple in design, comfortable and lady-like.— " Iris," in Melbourne Leader.