STUDENTS LIFE IN LEIPSIC.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8162, 25 January 1890, Page 1 (Supplement)

STUDENTS LIFE IN LEIPSIC.

No. XVII. [BY SYtfN'KY K. lIOUKN*.]

FAREWELL TO TEPLITZ. Tkplitz would be a delightful residence for anybody with a moderate income—say £1000 per annum. The sons and daughters could have first-class educational advantages, and the heads of the family could enjoy an advanced society, while yet in the midst of great natural beauty. There are mountains all round to ascend, from each of which lovely views arc obtainable ; the air is pure, and with a pleasant party excursions through the surrounding forests are very jolly. Then there is a good deal of music, concerts by the Cur Capelle twice daily, and three times on Mondays and Fridays, and military band concerts several times a week. Many people who have been cured of rheumatism at the baths, have permanently settled in this way, and others return year after year. Amongst the former elasses'is an English gentleman who was so delighted that he bought a villa and settled down with his family. One of his daughters is now married to a son of the Prince, and is herself a mother. For the benefit of colonial mothers, I may mention that this does not exhaust, the family of His Highness. Among the annual visitors is an enormous Russian, whom Teplitz cured, and who with his wife and two nieces from the Imjwrial Court Suite, comes every season. The girls have much chic," and are very interesting and clever. They usually speak French, which is so much prettier and more poetic than the "strong" German, but besides French they speak, fluently and perfectly, English, German, Russian, and heaven only knows what else, and paint, sing, and play equally well. There are numberless others Who first came as invalids, but remain as more or less continuous residents. My residence in Teplitz has greatly improved my German, as 1 talk little else. In Leipsic it is always English, English, English. I once heard a tourist say that he had come to Leipsic to learn German, and hadn't heard any spoken since his arrival. I spoke more German during my stay in Teplitz, than during many months of Leipsic, and thus became quite fluent. Even if 1 failed to understand anything, I uttered a sententious " Ja," —interrogative, reflective, or acquiescent, as the occasion seemed to demand, and so got a reputation for profound wisdom and a thorough knowledge of the language. But it was a polyglot place. Most of the people one met spoke French, some spoke English, and all Bohemian and German, and their knowledge of each language was thorough, and not of the shadowy and superficial character so often met with in colonial schoolgirts. I asked one young lady with whom 1 was dancing if she spoke English? "No," she said, " oidy French, Italian, German, and Bohemian ;" and she rounded upon me by asking if I spoke the latter '! 1 felt inclined to try Maori upon her, but forbore, fearing that perhaps her knowledge of that musical tongue also exceeded mine. After this 1 thought it best to " let sleeping dogs lie," and so avoid awkward questions. The Saturday dances were very enjoyable, as there were always nice people at .them. At the second one I attended, the lovely girl whose arrival in Teplitz I had watched, was present, and we had several dances, if the dances are long, so are the intervals between each. They extend to I<3 or '20 minutes, and one long one of nearly an hour, during which iced coffee is a favourite beverage. On the Sunday after my arrival there was a/«( of the Red and White Cross Zweigverein in the Schloss Garten. CapelmeisterPehel's band gave a concert while we had refreshments beneath the trees. For outdoor music there is nothing like a good military band. A string orchestra, like the Cur Capelle, sounds weak in the open air, but it is always strings at the Bads, as brass is considered too exciting for invalids. At nine p.m., when it grew dark, the promenade was brilliantly illuminated with Chinese lanterns and lamps. The large lake had been fenced round for the occasion, and a wharf run out to the middle, and from this there was a display of fireworks, while the band, placed somewhere ouo of sight, played lively airs. These fata are very pretty, and frequently held. They call them " Italian nights." Every now and then when I felt in want of fresh air or exercise, I went out and climbed a mountain. They range from the Mileschauer down. One day, it was the Waeholderberg Hill, from which I had a superb view. At the top is a monument to commemorate IS4B, surrounded by a mound of stones bearing the names of the various towns concerned in the Avar. I next tackled theMuckenthurnichen, a lovely hill of 2(j'2',i feet, one of the high points of the Erzgebirge. I started about nine a.m., and after much inquiry reached the picturesquely-placed town of Graupen, on the steep slopes at the foot of the mountain. Obergraupen is near the top. The houses are very old-fashioned and picturesque, but as they have stone floors cannot be pleasant to live in. There are shrines adorned with statues all along the road. It was noon when I arrived at the highest point, and found the inevitable restaurant. If the North Pole were German or Austrian territory it would have been capped by a restaurant long ago. This particular cafe had a balcouy running round the second floor,and on this my meal was served. From it a magnificent panorama was visible. On very clear mornings it is possible to see Dresden. Unfortunately, there were rain clouds overhead, so after a light repast of five eggs, an omelette, and black bread, butter, and beer, 1 had to depart, in order to reach Teplitz in time for my three o'clock bath, but first added my name to the visitors' book in "abi" round hand," and saw where some wandering Schottlander had written "Gin a body," etc., on the wall. I didn't get far before the threatened rain came down in torrents, bub the road was steep and easy, and one's eyes were rejoiced by the scenery, so I was in town again in two hours. I was in the Jewish Synagogue during service on one evening. After experience of the customs in Christian churches, it looks very strange to see all the men wearing their hats. One feature particularly struck me. In the porch or vestibule is a notice of the times of service, and when out, and there is a set clock under each notice—an admirable plan, as one can see to a minute how long a service will be. A clever young music teacher, Herr Kayl, was of great value to me during my stay in Teplitz. I met him almost daily, and he lent me music, and went with me to the concerts and elsewhere, and in numberless ways was extremely kind. As you will have implied from my last letter, I was an object of general curiosity. When I went anywhere, I would hear Kayl at the other side of the room telling the people of me, and my country, and the length of my journey hither, amidst exclamations of " Ach Gott ! M " Wunderbar 1" "0 du Hebe Himrael !" and so on and so forth. Then I would be surrounded and have to answer a volley of questions. Ono is always coming

unexpectedly on notable people in these places. One night Kayl and I were in a kniepe, speaking of Carlsbad, my next stopping place, when an old gentleman at an adjoining table joined in the conversation as usual, and introduced himself as Herr Kuhe, of Kiev, Russia. His brother is Wilhelm Kuhe, known all over the world as a fashionable London piano composer and teacher. We had a long chat. At last came the end of my month at Teplitz. I felt quite sad over it. Iliad grown to take an interest in everyone and in the concerns of the people whom I saw daily, and whom I might never see again. I had a last electrical application from Dr. Hirsch, and a long farewell chat with pleasant little Frau Hirsch. They have had intimate acquaintance with musical folk, as Emma Nevada and her father (also a medical man) used to live with thorn for the sake of the baths. Then came settling up of all kinds, and "Good-byes" in various directions, and I found myself at the station with HenKay 1, who had brought with him a littlo bunch of roses as a parting gift. 1 was quite excited. I never get used to the feeling of looking for the last time upon peoplo to whom l have become attached ; but what must be must be, and 1 was soon rolling along towards Carlsbad. A HALT AT CARLSBAD. The route from Teplitz to Carlsbad is very pretty, not so the approach from the station to the town. I arrived about four p.m. but was rather disappointed by the appearance of things until I got close to the town and began to pass fine buildings, and got into the handsome Alte Wiesse. This street is very attractive. On ono side it is shaded all along by glass verandahs, with thick trees outside, and the shops are 1 more tempting than any I have seen since , the Ceylon bazaars. They iiro full of bric-a-brac and nicknucks in ivory, wood, tortoiseshell, etc. The town is situated in the valley of the Tepl. The river , runs through it, and, like Teplitz, it is surrounded by hills. One of these—tho ' "Franz-Josef Hiihe"—l ascended, and obtained therefrom a good view. Half way up was a laughable "head of a savage," the work of some humourist, who bad painted eyes and teeth upon the natural — or, rather, unnaturalformation of a tree stump. Tho town was very full, and English and Americans were in evidence on all sides, the men in tho enormously baggy trousers now fashionable. You can never mistake the nationality. Everywhere is life and movement. Of the .'IO,OOO annual visitors most are English speaking. Next morning I had splendid views of the towns from the Petorshuho, anil saw the memorial tablet and bust of Peter the Great, and the Hirschensprung (ltiUo) surmounted by a deer. Then 1 went round tho various colonnades for drinking the waters, TheSprudel and Muhlbrunuen are the chief. 1 saw tho former at seven a.m., while the band was playing. It is a very large building, constructed chiefly of glass, with seats down the middle of the promenade, which is used in all weathers. In an adjoining apartment the spring spouts up many feet like a fountain, the steam rising from it. The girls in attendance till cups at the end of long rods for tiie visitors. The Muhlbrunnen is constructed of stone. The hot springs rise near the Tepl, through a crust of particularly hard rock known locally as "Sprudel Sohale." Wherever this is broken the boiling water gushes violently upwards, and it is assumed that beneath the crust upon which the town is built there is a vast common reservoir of mineral water—the " >prudel Kessel." Various articles cut from the schale arc sold as mementos. AN UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE. My stay at Carlsbad was brief, and I was soon again on my journey. It is the unexpected which always happens. After my Teplitz experience, I had no expectation of meeting anyone in any way connected with New Zealand, but on tho omnibus which took me to the railway station, I noticed a lady looking fixedly at me, and presently she addressed me in English. It turned out that she was going as far as Falkenan, in the same train as myself, and she proved to bo Miss Hamilton Loughnan, of Ingatestone Hull, Essex, and of the wellknown ChrLstchurch and Hawko's Bayfamily. She had been travelling all ovor the world, and was soon to go to Cairo, but, by my advice, decided to first visit Bayreuth, for the Wagner festival. It was very pleasant to meet so unesqxjctedly a lady who had relatives in Now Zealand, and I was sorry when our routes diverged. THE WA LIT ALL A. My next halt was at Regensburg, whero I arrived after midnight. Next morning 1 found my way to the banks of the Danube, and there boarded a ferry boat en roxUf. to " Walhalla." It is about six miles from Regensburg, and about half-nn-kur'a walk through pleasant meadows and trees from the riverside. Its magnificence completely beggars my poor powers of description. I never saw anything to approach its beauty, and when one ascends the '250 marble steps which lead to the " Hall of the Chosen," ho begins to realise what exquisite taste poor l/ouis had. Visitors are not allowed to sit down, although beautiful marble chairs are placed here and there, and felt overshoes must be worn within tho building. It cost £1,200,000. I descended to the village of Donaustauf, beneath, and went up to the ruined castle of Stauf, from which there is a good view. The custodian was not about, so I had to climb the castle walls, and make my exit to the station in similar fashion, through an orchard. In the town itself the most conspicuous object is the immense Cathedral, begun in 1275, and not yet finished. Regensburg is a quaint, old-fashioned place, but°little visited by tourists, where prices are low. They dropped directly I left Austrian territory. MUNICH. I left Regensburg by special at six p.m., and arrived in Munich after a pleasant run, at nine p.m. The train was full of English from Bayreuth, but I chatted the whole way with a young German lady, who w;is on her way to Switzerland. We arrived in a downpour of rain, and as I needed rest, I went straight to bod. My first visit in the morning was to the lovely Allorheiligen Hofkirche, a beautiful church in coloured marbles and gold, with the windows so placed as to be invisible. Then I waited for a time in the fine Cafe Maximilian, and sampled the famous beer of the Hof Braii, the finest in the world. Its distinctive quality is a peculiarly " fine" taste—thero Is no "roughness" in it. At eleven a.m. the Palace opened, and with 200 or 300 other visitors I was shown through it. It is a magnificent budding, the inspection of which occupied mo two hours, and I hadn't then nearly finished. The ballroom had such a delightfully slippery floor that 1 longed for a dance. I was rather surprised with Munich. I had always pictured it as a small, oldfashioned town, and found instead a very large modern city, with wide stroets and squares, and palatial and immense buildings everywhere. I would, I think, prefer it as a dwelling to any place I have yet seen, as it is full of objects of interest and artistic treasures. To an artist it is, of course, one of the'mast interesting places in the world. The Conservatorium is a plain building in the Odeon Platz, with abou 1200 pupils. Rheinborgcr is a resident at Munich.

For months the German press had been full of the great Turner fest, and I was prepared for something wonderful. Imagine my disgust, after paying my admission fee, to discover only an immense roughlyconstructed eating hall, and a large paddock with hundreds of flags flying— empty ! The athletic fest had. finished the preceding day, and' these were the melancholy remains. I was soon oat and on my way to the colossal " Bavari " statue and Ruhmeshalle. The statue is 69 feet high, and through the lady's body I clambered upstairs to her head, which could not be said to entirely lack brains, as it held six sightseers, who gazed out upon the city through various apertures. The heat beneath tho bronze was something awful, so I did not remain long, bub descended to inspect the "Hall of Fame," with which, however, I was nob impressed. By this time I was so tired that I had to take to the open trams, and so went through the city and saw the fine " Sieges Thor." Next day I took the opportunity of writing to Frau Cosima Wagner about the Bayreuth festival, and visited the museum, where I camo across two American fellow-students. Then followed a Bwim in some small freshwater baths, and later a visit to the world - renowned Hofbrauhaus. This is one of the recognised sights of Munich. The entrance to the cellars is through disreput-able-looking sheds. Boer is around every-

where, and spilled everywhere. The appearance of the placo is most dirty and uninviting, bub it is always crowded with people of a'll ranks— mostly tho lower. The beer brewed here is said to a be the best in tho world, and as drunk on the premises is supposed to have a flavour which it loses elsewhere. I could quite believe this as I looked around. A sausage of peculiar excellence is obtainable with the beer. It is no use waiting to bo waited on at the Hofbraii. You will wait in vain. The wealthy proprietor does not want you there. His beer ooes out to the ends of the earth —as much 3 of it us ho can brew, —and hi 3 local customers are only there on sufferance. You pay 20 pfgs-, take up one of the great jugs and dip your fill. The beer is no doubt wonderfully good, but I could nob got nearly to the end of the tremendous portion which was handed me, and after stopping a little while I concluded that the Cafe Maximilian was more to my taste. Tho Cafe Maximilian is the leading cafe in Munich. My experience is that the common restaurants of the continent lire unbearable. I have tried them more than once; tho last time was at Regensberg, whore I left my meal untouched. In tho best houses everything is clean and nicely served. From the Hofbrauhaus I went to the Opera, which is still cheaper than in Leipsic. This opera house is said to be the largest in Germany, and seats 2500 people. Consorvatorium students are admitted to the parquet for a mark, and the prices of all entertainments are lowered for them. Everytlfiug is well staged here, and the local opera is considered one of the best in Europe. The " Trumpeter von Sakingen," with a ballet, was the bill ou my first visit. The stage is very large, and is always carpeted, and the orchestra is a fine one.

There are very great attractions in and around Munich. It is close to the Alps, and the excursions are delightful. To Innsbruck is only a two hours' trip ; to the Chiemese Schloss, of which everyone raves, is a day's journey; and Ober Ammergau is quite close. The photographers' shops arc full of splendid views of the neighbourhood. Then the palaces of the mad Louis are perfect dreams of beauty. Each will take at least a day to inspect. The present King is also mentally afflicted, and has not been seen in public for 15 years. He lives in a Schloss about an hour's distance from the city, and Bavaria is governed by the Prince Regent, who is blessed with an immense family. The Glytothek, which I visited, contains in two rooms lovely frescoes by Cornelius, and in others, statues, and the Exhibition building has a gallery of modern pictures, most of iheui for sale, and with the prices attached. I must say I have a weakness for fresh paint, and on the whole prefer a modern gallery to the classical ones with their cracked and dried up canvases. The city teems with English and Americans, and all the hotels were crowded. I lived at a private houso, which was much more pleasant. The rest and treatment, too, seemed to have benefited my arm, as it was not at all stiff, and when 1 sat down to an instrument 1 could play freely. I tried a piano at an exhibition, and seemingly charmed tho ladies present, as they flocked around and tried to persuade mo to come and live in Munich, and I could hear them whispering among themselves "Tho lienis a virtuoso !"' My second Munich Opera was " Carmen," heard at the Court Opera House. This is the house in which poor Louis 11. had tho Wagner operas performed with himself as sole occupunt of the darkened auditorium. The orchestra at these houses is usually very powerful and fine, but the singers do not always please me. This stage is so extremely large that it presents a splendid appearance when set. There was a good deal of difference between the Munich representation of "Carmen," and that with which we are familiar at Leipsic, where the second act takes place in the garden, and not in Lillias Pasta's gasthaus as here, and there were many other changes. They manage to have operas over punctually at the time announced. I " went behind later and was shown all over the house The stage machinery in a well-appointed theatre is so complicated that one wonders at the smoothness of its working during a performance. There is a very fine view from tho roof of tho Court Opera. I went to see the old and now Pinakothek —tho two most important Munich galleries. In tho former are old masters, and in the latter present century pictures. .Murillo's " Beggar Boys " particularly attracted my attention. The collection is remarkably strong in Rubens. Two cabinets are devated to his pictures, among them tho marvellous " Last Judgment" and " Battle of the Amazons." The new Pinakothek has Bomo beautiful works, and contains the model of Wagner's Quadriga on tho Siegesthou. Munich is a city of beautiful churches. Besides the Allorheiligen, I saw tho large and magnificent Basilica, tho immense Fruuen Cathedral, and theTheabnierKirehe. Tho latter contains the royal vaults. It is very large, with a mass of decorations in stone in Italian style, and many side altars. They are all very beautiful, but I prefer the littlo Allorheiligen to any church I have yet seen. It is a perfect gem. Ono of my last visits was to the royal stables, wherein are the magnificent carriages and sleigh in which Louis 11. was wont to make those weird midnight dashes through the sleep-bound city. They must have created a strange sensation as they flew over the snow on still winter nights, the horses galloping at top speed, and the livery of the six outriders flushing in the moonlight. Beautiful pictures adorn the panels, and it seems desecration that such works of art should have beon spattered with mud and snow. What a tragic and awesome life and death their master had ! His face S|>oke of another world, and 1 find it very dillicult to believe that he entered the lake in which his body was found of his own volition. It was not without regret that I bid adieu to Mimohon and its glories. If what I have written inspires anyone to read more of the life of the city, they would do well to roperuse "Lord Brackcnbury," by Amelia Edwards.