THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9124, 4 August 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

- OPERATIONS FOR WEEK ENDING

AUGUST 11. flower GARDEN*.

The pruning of all roses must be completed at once. Full directions for same were given in last week's operations. While pruning, be careful to remove all suckers that may have come up from the stock. In many instances the soil requires to be removed to the roots in order to effectually cut away any such suckers, otherwise they are a continual annoyance throughout the season, as they absorb the natural nourishment from the root, and soon take possession of the worked plant. The present is a busy time in the (lower garden and its surroundings. All the shrubs should be gone over, and have their growth regulated, pruning back and thinning out when necessary. Evergreen hedges also require attention. Now is the proper season for pruning all such as are composed of cupresses maeroearpa and other cypressus ; also those composed of the different varieties of thugas. The sap being almost at rest, thev sustain no loss when clipped now, and the rising sap, which will shortly be active, will produce a healthy and vigorous growth The proper time for cutting hedges, more particularly those composed of certain varieties of conifers, is a matter of the greatest importance. .Many a promising hedge is mined by" being cut at the wrong season. Hedges of boxthorn, ehegnus, ligustrum, and some others may be pruned any time throughout the season without doing them any harm—in fact, the oftener they are clipped the thicker and more compact the hedge is made. All shrubs in the pleasure ground should have a small circle dug around each, leaving the surface neat and tidy. The grass upon lawns will require to be kept frequently mown. The mixed borders will require to be duo- or forked over. Flower beds will also require to be gone over, digging when necessary. Be careful not to disturb the roots of the different kinds of bulbs. Watch seedling annuals, and keep the surroundings clear of weeds and anything that is likely to form a hiding-place for slugs. Make additional sowings of hardy annuals, as nothing is more attractive than a well-selected assortment of annuals. Carnations and picotees may still be planted ; also pansies and many of the hardier varieties of bedding plants, but do not be in a hurry to plant out any of the more delicate sorts. Too often failure and disappointment is the result of too early planting. There are also so many plants that bloom early, that they all come in at the same time, and the display is not nearly so prolonged as when the more delicate bedding plants are reserved for later planting. They also till a gap just at the season when flowers are most wanted. PROPAGATION- BY CUTTINGS. There are few operations in the garden that are of more importance, or any that are more interesting, than the propagation of plants. It is the chief spring from which all supply must come, and by its means plants are constantly renewed. The striking of a few cuttings has often been the means of making the amateur an enthusiast in horticulture ; for all lovers of flowers are sure to take more care of plants struck by themselves. The propagation of most of the soft-wooded plants is very simple, and can with but little care be successfully done by those having but little knowledge of the operation. Assuming there is no propagating house or hot-bed for striking cuttings, the best plan is to prepare a frame ; cover the bottom of the frame to the depth of three or four inches with light soil, refuse hops, or half-decayed sawdust; place sand or brickdust and fine soil to the depth of two inches over the other material for the reception of the cuttings. Any kind of sand will do so long as it is gritty and porous. Cuttings' of nearly all kinds of softed-wooded plants root freely if taken from the young unripened growth. The general idea seems to be that every cutting must be made by cutting at a joint. This is no doubt the cause of many failures ; not because the cuttings will not strike at a joint, but because the cuttings are often too hard at that point, whereas if taken higher up, though between the joints,

the cuttings would be in a better condition to strike. The safest plan to _ adopt m propagating soft-wooded plants is to take the cutting from wood that will snap off short when bent. Cuttings will root if taken from the harder wood, but only a very small percentage will produce good plants. The plants rarely have the same vigour as when struck from the young growth. The cuttings should be inserted in the sand as soon as made, and in no case should be allowed to become dry or wilt. Shade and ventilate on all bright sunny days. Cuttings treated in this way will soon take root. As soon as they are rooted, they should be potted off singly, for if allowed to remain too long, they become drawn and weak. The roots are destroyed in removing, and sickly plants are often the result. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. "W.M.," Onehunga : Espalier trees. Easpalier training of fruit trees is a very useful and interesting method, especially in gardens of very limited extent. I have often advocated this system for small gardens. The trees are more easily pruned and kept cleaned, and the space they occupy is very small when compared to standard trees. In sele -ting trees, I would advise the planting of maidensthat is, one-year-old trees, simply having one straight stem. These can be cut down to whatever height you wish to start your first branches. This is generally about 15 or 18 inches from the ground, or you may obtain trees having three branches—two side branches already for training and the leader. In that case the leading branch should be cut down within 12 inches of the lower branches, being careful to cut back to where the buds are strong and sound. This will cause two other side branches to start into growth. The leading shoot should be trained upright, and the side branches trained horizontally, and as near level with each other as possible. The cutting back of the leader should be done annually until the height of about five feet is reached, when no leader should be allowed to grow. To support the main branches, neat upright stakes placed 18 inches apart will answer for training, but if the trees are planted in rows, a few wires strained ia muoh neater and more durable. Kepos.