THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9082, 16 June 1888, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR WEEK ENDING JUNE 23. FLOWER GARDEN AND SKRCBCKRY. Planting operations may now be carried on vigorously.' All kinds of trees, shrubs, and other plants may be transplanted with safety. In the majority of soils early planting is a matter of much moment, as tho plants take hold of the ground, make new roots, and become thoroughly established, and are consequently much better able to battle against the harsh drying spring winds which aro so destructive to newly-planted trees unless where thoroughly sheltered. But in wet, stiff, cold soils it is often better to defer the planting of trees and shrubs that are of a permanent character, until the heaviest of the winter rains are over. In soils of such character, I have found from experience that late planting ia preferable to winter when the ground is wet and cold. It is necessary that all trees and shrubs intended for late planting should be properly prepared, otherwise the result will not be so satisfactory. By proper preparation is meant that they should be lifted early in the season and balled up and afterheeled in, not too close together. Under this treatment they make a mass of new fibrous rooty, and may be transferred into their permanent quarters with perfect safety. If the weather is likely to be dry at the time of planting, a good drenching of water applied at the roots during the planting, before Hlling in the surface soil, is all that is required. Do not apply a second watering, unless the weather sets in exceptionally dry. Roses : The sooner are planted tho better, in order to produce a good display of bloom the first season. A properly-planted rose is theexception rather than the rule. In many cases they are not planted sufficiently deep, and in a few too deep. Rones, when procured from the nursery, are invariably budded, very few being grown upon their own roots. In planting budded roses, the bast plan is to plantHufficientlydeep, sothatthesoilisabout one inch above the union of stock and graft, or buds. But if the stock happens to be too long, this is impracticable, as the roots would be too deep in the ground. The best rose to select for planting is one that is worked pretty low, having the roots near the buds. In purchasing roses, it is a matter of the utmost importance to procure your stock from careful growers ; otherwise much annoyance may bo the result from young rose.s throwing up suckers from the stocks. When planting, shorten all long roots, and remove any that have been broken or bruised in lifting ; prune back a portion of the growth, leaving the final pruning till about the end of .July. Dahlias must now be lifted and placed in their winter quarters. A suitable place for some may be selected underneath sotuo evergreen treo, with low growth ; where they will be kept dry and out of the way. The display of bloom is at present very limited, this being about the worst time for flowers ; frosty nights having - made havoc among all the tender annuals. These should be

all duct clown and cleared .away. In the mixed border the Sasiandra macvantha and Habrothnunus elegans produce a rich profusion of bloom. These are two of our most useful winter flowering shrubs. Camellias give promise of a good display of bloum, and hero and there some of the earliest are already treating us to a few blooms. THE GREENHOUSE. Plants in this department will now require very careful treatment. Remove all shading from the glass, to give the plants the whole benefit of the light and sun during the winter months. Give the house a thorough cleaning, carefully pick over and rearrange all flowering and foliage plants. Primulas, cyclemens, eucadonias, bourardias, and some of the shrubby begonias are now in flower. These or any other flowering plants, carefully arranged with ferns and foliage plants, still give the house a very nice appearance. The plants should be frequently changed from one place to another during the dull winter weather. The plants are benefited by the change, and the effect in the house is greatly enhanced. Great care must now be taken nob to over water. Plants require but very little water during dull cold weather. Repot primulas for succession with careful treatment. A continual supply of bloora can be had from these plants and cyclomeus

during the whole winter. Cinerarias and calceolarias repot when necessary, never allowing the pots to become full of roots before shifting into larger pots ; keep them in a cool frame, and give air on all favoura,ble occasions. Pot off early struck cuttings of fuchsias, petunias, heliotrope, pelargoniums, and other soft-wooded plants; pot off into small pots and place near the glass. Continue to put in cuttings of plants required for spring use. Pot a few bulbs of liliums and other bulbs for spring flowering. CODLIN MOTH. It appears in spite of all the meetings and resolutions condemning the action of the Government in bringing forward this Codlin Moth Bill that some of our members are determined to try their utmost to get the Bill passed through the House. Although I believe the passing of the Bill as it stands would be the ruin of the fruie industry, at the same time I think somt means should be taken by the Government to prevent the sale of infected fruits. If this is done fruitgrowers will try every means of keeping the moth in check, and all the inspectors the Government might appoint could not make them do more. It is almost impossible to eradicate the moth, and it will always be troublesome, ao that inspectors may look forward to a permanent billet. In fact, the thing appears so good that I feel inclined to offer my services for inspector - general, only I'm rather afraid of the heavy boots of some of our orchardists. I was somewhat amused in reading that account of the meeting on Friday, at one gentleman stating that using Paris green helped to spread the moth more than anything else, as it destroyed many enemies of the codlin moth. I cannot see how this can be the case, as Paris green only destroys the moths by its eating a certain portion of the powder when eating the fruit, and could be syringed over the moth or other ineect without doing it the least harm unless they swallowed a certain portion of the poison. Now, as Palis green is only syringed over the trees affected, any moth so destroyed must be eating either the fruit or leaves, and if such is the case, cannot be any friend to the orchardist even if they aro enemies to the motli. From the use of Paris green alone I saved more than eighty per cent, of apples and pears. Another gentleman gives me an instance of the efficacy of Paris green. He states after syringing many of his trees he had a small quantity left in the pail, which he applied to rather a large tree, but found it only sufficient to do one-half, with the result that one - half of the fruit tree was scarcely touched with moth while the other is perforated. Kkpos.