EXPLORATIONS IN THE KING COUNTRY.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XX, Issue 6811, 15 September 1883, Page 1 (Supplement)

EXPLORATIONS IN THE KING COUNTRY.

[BY J. H. KKRKY NIOHOLLS, SPECIAL COMMM SIONER FOR THE NEW ZEALAND HERALD.]

NO. XV. ORUAPURAHO VALLEY.

We left Puotepiki early on the following morning, and as the tangi was at aa end, about a dozen mounted natives, who were in the same direction as ourselves, invited ns to join them. Leaving the pa in a long calvacade, we descended iuto a valley, and crossed, the Wanganui stream flowing into Lake Tanpo, and whioh was picturesquely fringed with bush at the point where we forded it. While ascending the opposite steep, one o£ the natives came to grief by his horse falling, and rolling over down the bank on the opposite side of the track. Fortunately, neither man nor horse was the worse for the mishap. Further ahead, we crossed the Waikino stream, and after passing over fern-clad hills we reached the Oruipuraho Valley, formed by a wild ravine suuk like an enormons pit in the tableland. This curious place, which was about two rnilcs l"Dg, was exactly 200 feet in depth, and was walled in on every side with perpendicular masses of trachytio and white pamice rouk, which were broken here and there iuto the form of enormous bluffs, which jutted out in the most fantastic shapes. Winding precipitoos ravines opened out now and again in the direction of the lake aud towards the mountainous country on the west, but beyond these wild gorges nothing could be seen beyond the towering walls of the deep valley, the sides of which appeared to attain, all along the course, to a general height of 200 feet, the altitude of the tableland being both at the entrance and exit of the valley exactly 2000 feet above the sea. A small stream wound through the centre of this rock-bound ravine about the aides of which the tnssook grass and fern grew iu great luxuriance together with the koromiko, of which our horses ate greedily, as they had dons throughout the journey iu default of anything better. WAIHAHA RIVER.

The tableland fell to 1700 feet, as wo tained the Waibaha River, the name of which literally means "still waters." There was a very steep descent to it. and looking from the top of this down upon the stream, there was not a ripple upon its surface. It was, however, some hundred feet wide at the forcing place, and as- the water was deep, we had to swim our horses, and in this way we got an unpleasant wetting, which was rendered doubly disagreeable by the rain which now came dovn in torrents. On the opposite side of this river, towards the east, a castellated bluff rose up to a height of nearly two hundred feet, in appearance not unlike a fortified stronghold, while beyond this point the river fell in the form of a small waterfall, as it wound on its way to Lake Taupo. The river came from the Hurakia Mountains, in the west, through a rocky gorge, which had a very wild and picturesque appearance, enormous masses of rock, in the form of bold bluffs, rising on each side of the stream, as it wound on its way, fringed with a thick growth of toetoe grass. KAHAKAHAROA.

At about a mile distant from the Waihaha River, after passing through a wild, rocky Korge, where fantastic masses of rock stood up aoove the conical hills like monuments, we arrived at Kahakaharoa, a small pa situated on a winding mountain stream called Te Pikopiko. At one time there had been a considerable native settlement here, but now the whole place was nearly abandoned. We were detained here all the following day by the incessant rain that came down in a perfect deluge, the streams rising all'round us with marvellous rapidity. This was a very wild, dreary-lookii>g place, sitnated in a rock-bound, inaccessible spot, right at the base of the Hurakia Mountains, and the appearance of the inhabitants seemed quite in keeping with the locali'y. Here, beside the usual diet of pork and potatoes, we were treated with roast kiwi, these birds being very plentiful in the dense forests of the Hurakia Mountains; and whilst referring to the last descendant of the great family of New Zealand Struthionidee, I may mention that throughout the journey we always made it a practice to inquire of the natives as to whether they had ever discovered any remains of the moa, but beyond a reference to it in their traditions, little appeared to be knov/n of it. The natives, however, at Ngatokorua informed us that in former tinv s the bones of this bird had been found in the swamps around Lake Rotoaira. It is also worthy of remark that we ascertained that there was a tradition among all tiie tribes of the existence at one time of a gigantic lizard, which is said to have inhabited the caves and rocky places of the North Island, but whether this was in fact a real or a fabulous reptile, it would seem impossible to determine. Our horses fared badly at this camping place, and were compelled to subsist upon the ripe berries of the 6weetbriar, which here grew in wonderful luxuriance, so much so that our animals, following out the laws of natural selection, would often have to stand on their hind legs to reach the bright red fruit. PAEPAEWHATCJ.

We left Kahakaharoa as soon as the swollen state of the rivers would allow us, and, after crossing the Waikomiko River, continued our course in a northerly direction along the tableland, which here opened out into a broad expanse of rolling plains, stretching away to the north as far as the eye could reach. We now had the Hurakia Mountains to the west covered with densi? forests, while at the end of the rugged chain rose the giant form of Mount Titiraupecga, which had formed our most conspicuous land-mark on our journey north We passed by the head waters'of tho Waihora River, which was the last stream of any importance, forming the western watershed of Lake Taupo. Near to this point wo came to Pat'pat whatu, a distric' of low fern hills and email winding swamps, the latter making our course very difficult to follow, as we often bad to go miles out of our way to avoid them, although in many plaoea they were only a few yards wide, but so boggy and treacherous as not to be able to support our own weight, let alone that of our horses. TE TIHOI PLAINS.

Journeying still further od, we crossed the Te Tihoi Plains, a fine tract of open country extending around the mountains of Titiraupeuga as far north as the banks of tho Waikato River, and thence north-westerly to the Te Toto Ranges. This large, area, comprising nearly one thousand square miles, was the country described upon tho maps as covered with dense bush, and where we had expected to travel through primeval forests we found magnificent open plains, covered with a rich vegetation of native and composed of some of the best soil we had met Sith during our journey. As we rode over theße plains, the scecery was magnificent, as much by reason of the vast scope of country that stretched before us as by the variety of the mountain scenery" that surrounded the plains in every direction. To the north-east, hiuh forest-clad mountains rose up one above the other, in the direction of Ouranui and the valley of the VVaikato, while to the we?t were rugged forest clad ranges, crowned by the towering form of Titiraupenga. This magnificent mountain, which ia the highest peak in the northern portion of the King Country, rises to an altitude of some 4000 feet above the level of the sea. It atßumes in general outline the formation of an extensive cone, with a broad base and long sweeping sides, while its summit is surmounted by a gigantic pinnacle of rock, of a pointed form, and which serves with the great mountain as a conspicuous landmark all over the surrounding country. It is covered from base to summit with dense forests, and its enormous gorges and deep ravines give rise to many streams and rivers. For a considerable distance along our course the nltitude of thetableland varied from 2000 to 2450 feet, until we struck the Mangakawiriwiri, a cuiious underground river flowing from Titiraupenga. This river burst through a tremendous gorce of the mountain, flanked on either side by tall precipices of rock, and then cut its way through a narrbw rocky chasm. Looking down into the deep fissure we could just see the silver streak of water foaming nearly a hundred feet below, but in many places it pasted entirely out of sight when the channel ran underground. This stream, which was 2200 feet above the

sea, we were enabled .to crons by nieahß of a very narrow and yfery primitive footway, which the natives told ua was kuown as the "Bridge of God." MANGAKINO. From the Mangakawiriwiri, our course lay through an open undulating country covered with a luxuriant growth of tussock and oth-r nativegra-w.s. Here thetableland began to fall perceptibly towards the north-west, and for a long distance it averaged in altitude from 1000 to 1150 f< et,and When we reached the valley of the Mangakino hiver it had fallen to 1000 feet. This was one of onr : ongent journeys, the distance travelled during the day being over forty miles, so that it was moonlight when we arrived at the ba' ka of the river. The MangaWpo. ran through a deep mountain gorge and formed one of the many streams issuing fn-iri the Titiraupenga Ranges, and flowing into the Waiknto. We soon !ou:.d that it was much swollen by th» recent rains, and that it would be neoea.sa.ry to swim oar horses. Pour of the native;" who had accompanied ns from I'ouo'ej iki were still with us,, so that altogether we had to got *-ix horses across, but the a'.i-.ials behaved splendidly, and swain through the icy cold water tike ducks, the Maori horses showing their bush know- j ledge by taking the leftd. Altogether, it was a very dangerous crossing place to take, e-peci'tlly at night time, as the river just below the ford teil <-Ver a deep precipice with noise, like thunder. Once on the oppisite bank, we pitched camp for the night, arid made a meal out of what we could mmtcr between "48. All we could b>ast of was a little flonr, some of which the natives worked up into a dough in a pannikin, and then rolii.ng it up i-to long pieces between the palms of their hands, wound the pieces round sticks in a spiral fashion, arid baked them in front of the fire. A few potatoes the Maoris lud with them »ere likewise spitted and roaste iin this way. The place where we camped was an exceedingly wild-looking spot, an l ! during the night we experienced a severe frost, the thai moineter descending to 23 degrees. THE MAORIS AS TRAVELLERS. We struck our camp at the Mangakino before daylight and set out on our journey at once, but, unpleasant to relate, without any breakf jst, as cur commissariat was now reduced to a few potatoes, which w« had det-rmined to cook whi-n we Bhould get further on the road. We rose from the valley of the river on to the level plains jußt as the first rays of tiie nun swept over the country in a flood of glowjng light, and the air was so pure and buoyant that we soon I'orgot that we were journeying on an empty stomach, uutil we c*me to a stream, where we found an abundant growth of watercress, of which we ate h'-artily, one of the Maoris remarking with ,i broad grin that we had at last como "to feed like the cows." When travelling with the Maoris I could not | but admire the eary good-n&tured way |in which they took everything —nothing disconcerted them. When impediments to travel presented themselves the bigger the difficulties to ov rcome the more ardent they appeared io surmount them. When crossing the swollen rivers if onegot a bigger ducking than the r. St they would laugh and joke at the ill-luck of their comrade, while lie in his turn would enjoy the amusement as much as they did. On one occasion, when we were ascending a steep slippery hill, the saddle girth of onu of the horses broke, and the saddle slipping a ide the rider fell heavily and rolled down a muddy bank. ' his brought down roars of laughter from the ot hers, who told him not to mind himself, but that it was a pity to spoil a good h' rse by letting him know how easily a man could fall off his back. I always found the natives to he expert arid fearless horsemen, and I believe that a cavalry regiment of well trained and well mounted Maoris, both for cour»ge, endurance, and dun, would form one of the finest body of troops ever marshalled upon a parade ground or a battle fielt). Another feature indicative of the endurance of the natives was that one flight they would be Bleeping in a wliafepuni with the thermometer a hundred degrees, aud the next night they would not hesitate to lie down upon the damp ground with only a blanket over them, and with the thermometer at several degrees below freezing point. It is true we often w cut through the same ordeal ourselves during the journey, but it appeared to me to be more remarkable on the part of the Maoris, as they teemed to enjoy the stifling heat of their wtmrepnnis ai a positive luxury, whilo we looked upon it as being very much akin to a sojourn in Hades, THE WAIPAFA RIVER.

After passing a long distance over an open undulating country, covered mostly with low fern and tussock, we gained the Mandate te River, and following it aloqg for a long distance, wound throng.li a series of narrow ravines, doited about with low conical, hills, and intersected by de> p gullies clothed with a thick g'owth of manuka scrub. In some pirts tire sides uf these narrow valleys rose nearly 200 feet above us, the rounded fernclad hil 8 often mounting in gentle grada ' tions above tho s'eep precipices. The altitude of the Country in this part was about 1000 feet above the lev»l. of the sea. Beyond this point we traversed a wide tract of low fern hills, with the Kaingaroa Plaiuß stretching away to the northwest. Across Clio op'.n country to the north was a remarkable cluster of hills rising into rugged peaki, above which rose a roundshaped mountain, frotn whose fern-clad sides pr<>trud« d enormous masses of trachytic rock.. hills, with their peaks, bluffs, and dome-shapid masses, farmed a conspicuous feature in the landscape. We reached the Waipapa Kiver near its junction with the Mangatete, and descended from the tableland, over one hundred feet, to the crossing-place. This river, whjch was one of the largest we bad met with, rushed with a rapid current through a deep rock-bound gorge from the mountains of Titiraiipenga to join the WaikatO, of which it formed one of the principal tributaries. We gamed the crossing-place by a steep winding dc.-cent, the mountains with their rocky bluffs on the opposite side of the river toeing clothed with a dense vegetation of giant trees, while to the right, of the track by which we had to descend was a small mountain, forming a complete cone, and which was cl.itiied from base to summit with a luxuriant growth < i fern and tall rnanuka. The gorge throu.li which the river wound had a very wild and beautiful appearance, while the water, like that of the Wuikato, into which it fell after crossing the plaius, was as clear as crystal. Beyond the Waipapa we passed through more open couutry until we neared the Te Toto Ranges, when mountain, hill, and valley milled together in a most picturesque way. It took us three hours to traverse the Te Toto Ranges, the track winding about in every direction, with deep, ravines on either side. Here the vegetation was of tho most luxuriant and varied order, but the enormous roots of the great trefes made riding *ery difficult. & TETAUIUNGA. /■

We crossed the W;vipari River, a large stream flowing from the Kangitoto Ranges into the Waikato. The descent to the cros-ing plaoe of this river was no less than 500 feet, and we had to mount, a slippery incline on the opposite side of rqiial altitude. Our course dow lay over high fern-clad rivets, and now, for the first time, the broad valley of the Waipa was before us, with Maungatautari to the north, and Pirongia to the north-west. Towards sundown we passed along a ridge, with n. tremendous rock-bound gorge beneath us, and where the enormous rocks weie dispersed about in a way which resembled tho ruins of a feudal stronghold. This place was formerly occupied aB a pa, and on oce occasion ;v great battle was toufiht there by the Ngjitiraukatta, who were defeated by the Ngatituwharetoa and Nyatimatakore, who, it is said, feasted for days on the bodies of their enejnieß. HINGIA PA.

A few miles beyond Tetauranga we arrived at a low hill, upon th<J summit of which a number of Maoris were camped in tents. As luck would have .it, feeding was jnafc going on, and we were invited to partake of a welccme meal of pork and potatoes. Although it was now evening, we determined to push on our way, and when the moon rose we started, and gained the Puniu River, which wo crosscd, with the intention of ca'mpirg on the opposite aide ; we, however, got wet in the operation, and, as the place was swampy, and "the night fearfully cold, we determined to ride several miles further, to Hiugia pa, which we reached at ten o'clock, after a journey of over Kixty miles, and which had kept us in the saddle for about seventeen hours. Before arrival at the settlement tho whole country was covered with a white frost, and the damp, chilly cold of the. low valley of the Waipa se med to gq light into the marrow , of one's honeß. The natives appeared much surprised at our noctarnal raid opoa them,

but we were soon invited into awhare, where a big fire was burning, and wh>:re four men and an old woman were located with three or four mongrel, dog*. One of the: men, although apparently very old, was yet wiry and active, while his pinched sharp f-atures were tattooed in the most elaborate way up to the very iroots of bis hair, the thin blue lines forming a complete netwo-k over his countenance. Thi* was the most artistically tattoe.ed savage we had met on the journey, and Turner remarked' to me that he would much likq to have the old man s ! head to preserve as. a curiosity, but he wa° cautions enough not to express this desire to the antiquated Hauhafc. After we had talked over matters for some time, and the surprise occasioned by onr vi-it had: somewhat abated, onr tattooed friend produced a newly slaughtered pig from a da'fe corner of the whare, and when this was dismembered and some potatoes had been peeled by the old woman, there was soon a gone) meal cooking for oar benefit. After ' e had partaken of our repast we were invited by our entertainers to remain the tiiiiht, aud being only too glad to take advantage of their proffered hospitality, we took up our quarters in a corner of the primitive whire, which, unpleasant to relate, Was literally alive with fleas. [To be Continued.l