LATEST AMERICAN GOSSIP.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XVIII, Issue 6201, 1 October 1881, Page 6

LATEST AMERICAN GOSSIP.

J from oaa special correspondent.] Sax Francisco, August 27. FASHIONABLE FACTS. Ladies, you should see the store windows, you really should. The rainbow tints in dress material would turn your heads right round, placing the hack where the front should be—things are so gorgeous this coming fall. I myself am not fashion-mad ; a black dress, sometimes satin, sometimes silk, sometimes camel's hair, but still black, ornamented with heaps of jet lace and passmenterie ; as the fabric requires a bonnet black to match, with blots of colour at the throat, and in the chctpeau a crimson rose, a bunch of heliotrope, a wreath of faded leaves ; plain linen collar or crape ruche, black gloves, and handkerchief, bordered in colour to match the flower of the day, is the changeless form of my habit; and I well remember when Auckland women copied my dress and borrowed my patterns, so I suppose all this is correct. And yet I reallv do fancy the exquisite fabrics I see, and am tempted to come out of my ebony shell. The material I covet is velvet, shaded in stripes, either green, violet, or blue. Oh, ain't they too sweet for anything, these soft, toned-down imitations of summer's loveliest flowers ! the violet dresses emulate pansies ; the blue, the gentianella; the scarlet, a softlyshaded daliah; the yellow, ditto; everything is shaded like an autuinu leaf, in every possible colour—ribbons, flowers, stockings, all to match. And then there are POLKA DOT materials. These are very simple and pretty ; navy blue with white dots, like the old-fashioned bird-eye sporting kerchief; claret, green, all colours, in fact, take the white dot — small and large. Hose are always made to match the dress, also in dotted pattern. Thank Heaven, our gloves are for the present free of spots to emulate mildew, but for everything else the polka dot takes the lead. Skirts are still clinging, but a disposition to the hoop skirt shows itself in full dress—or, rather, say half a hoop—so arranged by having an underskirt with two hoops only. Up the back are deep flounces of stiff muslin, which keeps the dress beautifully out behind, while the front lies as it should do, perfectly flat. A full bodice, shirred at the shoulders and waist, with baujanl between, is the prevailing style for slim figures ; while the corresponding skirt is perfectly plain, having a box pleating round the base, surmounted by four ! tucks. A little apron of the material, shirred at the sides, and drawn back with a handsome bow of ribbon or silk, completes the costume. Of course, this form of dress takes a band round the waist—in fact, an old style repeated. Ladies knit their own hose for dress in varied colours, and afterwards embroider in floss silk. Thus the leg and foot become a conspicuous figure in the prevailing fashion, and a short skirt is necessary to show off the same ; but woe to her who has an ugly foot; she need not knit her hose, but rather put an extra inch to her I dress in length, and pretend to severely discountenance this present " indelicate" fashion — alas, for vanity! Gloves are beaded, and so are shoes for evening wear, with sprays of jet or steel beads. These, again, attract attention, and are only useful for thejotie pkd. As to gloves, the buttons so perplexing are going out, and little studs are used instead of buttons, with a thin silken thread, by which means you lace them in and out quickly, and presents a prettier effect; buttons for boots are also almost obsolete, and are fastened as the gloves. RmiXG HABITS are no longer black, navy blue and bottlegreen taking precedence. The skirt is short, while the basque body is pointed in front, a small, plain collar being fastened by a fanciful pin, in quaint device of bug-fly or moth. the hair is worn low by those who strain after the highest fashion ; but, for my part, I say dress your hair to suit your face, and send fashion to the dogs. The hair in front is not banged any more, but still cut short, curled over night, and pecked into a fluff, which is not flattened, but confined by a piece of invisible tulle or net—tulle is the best, ladies, I assure you as one who knows. The elegant trifles for our especial wear are numerous. Lace ties fastenened with wee bunches of flowers, artificial or real; mull ties, with lacs ends; butterflies made of lace, for neck or hair; fancy brooches in ladybirds, shrimps, bugs, dogs-heads, &c.; in fact, no woman is nowadays properly dressed without the aid of trifles—a fact I have always maintained throughout my life, only let the same trifles be good of the kind. Velvet and sealskin are the materials most used for mantles and ulsters, but why mention them since no one can possess these things in common but your American belle, and how she gets them—well, I cannot say. Everyone, rich or poor, wears sealskin here, anil it is the highest flight of our ladies' ambition to be so appareled ; but T think over on your side, where millionaires are not as plentiful as peaches, cloth ulsters are handsome enough for anything. I have one of Scotch tweed ; it answers the pnrpose, and is very warm. And when I get that ulster on, with a Derby hat, having a piece of pheasant's wing from Auckland for decoration, stuck at one side, a scrap of white handkerchief peeping out of the manly pocket on the left, and my hands in my pockets, I feel emancipated, and look it, too ; though I also hope in the far future (very far) to enrobe myself in sealskin—when stocks go up, if they ever do. COLOUR* this coming fall will emulate, if not rival, the tiut of the varied autumn leaves, so softly grave, so enchantingly beautiful, therefore indescribable except by the name of autumn tints. Olive green and bronze, with copper red and golden shades, from the brightest to tke colour of maple leaf long dead, red in modified shade, will still appear a reigning favourite, and all these deeper shades will be intersected with colours of paler hue, as ecru, pale blue, lemon chrome, which in vague fines will cross the woollen fabrics ; also there is beautiful admixture of gold and silver thread, simply a hair line, which is promised not to tarnish, as, indeed, it would not be well for it to do, in woollen goods. For evening wear black and white is once more de rigeur, broad stripes of white satin or brocade, with alternate ones of velvet, satin, or inoire. l'eople who can only long for these things may, in the solter climate of New Zealand, make up a striped dress of white sateen and ribbon velvet. I know of old how thrifty Auckland ladies are in matters of this sort, therefore give a hint. Some very pretty collars and cuffs to match are made of bedtick and maroon black velvet. Cut your collar large and sailor-shape or square or round, as you like, then tack the strips of velvet over the dark lines of the bed-tick, herring-bone between with any coloured silk, which, shows the white line through. They are very handsome and effective, I assure you. Plaids are mucli worn. Hats are every shape to suit the face; there is absolutely no rule to adhere to. Bonnets are in the shape of a horse-shoe, covered with beads, and sticking close to the head—l think hideous. Feathers and flowers are mixed together, which, though I publish, I don't recommend. Now, I think that is all about fashion. FASTING EIGHT MONTHS. Surely the age of miracles is now upon us. One would think so at least by observing the number of fasting men and women in America, and it is so inexpensive withal that I really wish I could find out the plan. From Chicago, a lady has just arrived who brings a wonderful story of a woman who went to a dentist to have a carious tooth extracted. It was a terrible tooth, and caused fearful pain in the drawing; in fact, gave such a shock to the nervous system of the lady, who, however, was robust, weighing ISOlbs., that she was instantly seized with severe pains all over the body, particularly in the bowels; nausea and vomiting setting in, and continuing up to this day. Not a particle of food has passed the sufferer's lips, and she is kept alive by baths of beef tea and milk. For eight long months has this method of keeping her alive been resorted to. In weight, the patient has lost 100 pounds, but her face presents a pleasing appearance, nor is it materially changed. A raging thirst oppresses her, and yet she cannot drink, but both hunger and thirst are appeased by outward applications. The nerves are so overwrought that sleep only coraes to the poor woman two hours in each twenty-four, and that when she is well-nigh exhausted. She retches constantly, and at last her throat has become affected, and she can scarcely speak above a whisper—all this from drawing a tooth. ' SirvEß Pen.