NOTES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH A PART OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, Volume III, Issue 125, 27 July 1844, Page 83

NOTES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH A PART OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

[Continued from page 80.] After a day of mist and light contrary winds, in which we hardly advanced, and could see nothing, on the morning of April the sth we found ourselves about three miles from the entrance of Port Cooper, becalmed, with beautiful weather. We had plenty time to look at the shore, and remarked that its appearance was somewhat different from that of the other parts of New Zealand we had been accustomed to. I should say that the scene was on the whole more picturesque, presenting rocky steeps and cliffs, which are not often seen in this country, and slopes covered with a short grassy herbage which yields a much greater variety of tints than the monotonous fern. The height of the hills which forms Banks' Peninsula may, at a rough guess, be about 2,000 feet. Seen from a distance, their outline is what we should call in Scotland sow-backed, but, when you are among them, you find abundance of ridges and volcanic looking pinnacles. On the north side of the Peninsula (for I cannot speak as to its south side), they send off numerous spurs, which descend with gentle slopes, though separated by steep gullies towards the water, where they terminate in escarped cliffs. The summits of these ridges are bare, but the gullies are densely wooded ; and it is between these ridges that the harbours with which Banks' Peninsula abounds are formed. Ports Cooper and Levi are close upon where the high land of the Peninsula sinks down towards the level neck. The outer heads are common to both harbours, which diverge from one another like two fingers of the same hand slightly separated. Port Cooper is far from being a good harbour. It is, properly speaking, a deep, narrow bay, nowhere land-locked, excepting one or two small bays which branch off from it. With the wind from the northward, a heavy swell rolls in ; but the water never breaks in it, as the waves are choked at its mouth and their motion broken. The holding ground is good, so that it is considered a safe place for vessels to lie, although in rough weather, as we experienced, they roll about in a manner which is reither convenient nor agreeable. Near the mouth of the harbour, its shores are rocky, bold and picturesque ; and, though leas so further up, there is nowhere along its aides more than a few acres of level land. At its upper extremity there is a large flat, but vessels cannot approach within several miles of this. We anchored m the first place in a small bay, on the eastern, side of the harbour, where a Mr. Greenwood has lately squatted, and has a considerable number o£ cattle and sheep. This bay. is undoubtedly _ molt- convenient place in Port Cooper— "both «s*e»J '% gards anchorage and land. There is not, however^ 'J? much more than two fathoms- of rater in it, ao^Jf^V that it ii not adapted for vessels of much driught, -^:-^: -^

I went ashore here to hare a look at the country. The soil is a light greyish black mould, I should think of considerable fertility. The vegetation which clothes it is principally a tufty wire grass, with a small proportion of Bhort fern, offering no impediment to walking. At the head of the bay is a flat of about 100 acres of very rich looking soil ; and on the north side of the bay are easy slopes for a short distance from the water ; but, ■above these, the basaltic rock of which the Penin•Bula is composed bursts out in the form of rugged terraces and castellated peaks. The opposite side of the bay is a steep cliff, which is surmounted by a piece of table land of some extent. The herbage on this had been burnt some time before, and was springing fresh and green. The whole scene was one of wild pastoral beauty, and reminded me forcibly of some parts of the Western Highlands. On returning to the ship, we found some of the principal chiefs of the Southern Island on board, viz., Tuawaike, or Bloody Jack, and Tairoa. They had come from Port Levi, which appears to be the head-quarters of the natives about the Peninsula, very few living in Port Cooper. The preference given to the former place probably arises from there being more wood upon its shores. The two chiefs seemed to be aware of the mission on which we were bound ; and were very anxious to tell us of their great possessions, and to discuss the question of the value of the land; but, to their evident mortification, the subject was avoided as much as possible. Tuawaike is probably one of the most Europeanized natives in New Zealand. He was most correctly and completely dressed in white man's clothes, even to the refinement of a cotton pocket handkerchief. His outward and investing garment was an excellent drab great-coat; and no stage-coachman in England could have thrust his hands into its pockets with a more knowing air. Sanguinary John is not one of those natives that climb up a ship's side, and forthwith squat down upon their hams on the deck. After shaking hands, he pulls out his watch, and asks you what time you make it, and, having satisfied himself on this point, he pulls out a dollar, and orders the steward to fetch him a bottle of trine. In the evening we had him in the cabin, where we both profited and were much amused by his conversation. He gave us a great deal of information about the geography of the country, and it was particularly valuable, as he understands our divisions both of time and distance. On many subjects he surprised us by the extent of his knowledge ; and, generally, his remarks were characterized by much shrewdness and very considerable drollery* Tuawaike is a fine-looking man, above middle size, and well proportioned, with good features, and an intelligent expression of countenance.

The other great man, Tairoa, is a very different •character. He was dressed in a blanket, and •knows only a few words of our language. The expression of his countenance is that of a very bad Jew; and all his movements *nd gestures indicate & mean and shuffling spirit. His complexion is rather a singular one for a Maori; his skin being fairer than most of them, and his hair of a dark brown and curling; whereas, it may be observed that when a Maori has brown hair, it is generally straight. He is a most importunate beggar; and, unfortunately for himself, is very fond of rum. Tairoa is a middle-sized man, apparently between forty and fifty years of age.

Having examined Greenwood's Bay, the Deborah proceeded further up the harbour, and anchored about a mile from Quail Island, which is some six or seven miles from the mouth of Port Cooper. Vessels cannot go any higher than this.

The following morning, two exploring parties set out Mr. Tuckett, accompanied by Mr, Davison, proceeded to the head of Port Cooper to find his way by the most level route to the great plain. Mr. Barnicoat, Mr. Wither, and myself, pulled ashore to a small bay on the west side of the harbour, our object being to cross in a direct line the ridge which divides Port Cooper from the plain, and so to make our way to Mr. Deans' station, where we were all to meet.

In the bay in which we landed, we found two or three miserable primitive Maori cabins, inhabited by half-a-dozen helpless old creatures and a few diseased children — forming a pa named Rapaki. Leaving this pa, we passed through a very pretty bush, which runs up nearly to the top of the range, fringing the rills of water which descend from its sides: we had then a very steep ascent to encounter, and soon reached the summit, at an elevation of, I should guess, about 800 feet, from which we looked down upon the waters of Port Cooper, and over the broken and rugged country to the east of it : but to the westward we had a magnificent view. £7Ln immense plain, apparently perfectly level, stretched away below our feet, extending in a direct line westward at least thirty miles ; and, to the southward, as far as the eye could reach, backed by a far remote chain of grand snowy summits. The general colour of the plain was yellow, indicating its being covered with dry grass ; and several streams with tortuous courses marked themselves upon its surface by the silver glitter of their waters.VWith the exception of one or two groves of black, lormal pines, of inconsiderable size, this immense plain seemed destitute of timber. Looking towards the north, we saw the sea breaking in long lines of surf upon the low sandy shore which connects the Peninsula with the mainland ; beyond which, our view extended over ranges rising one behind the other, backed by the distant Eaikoras. To the southward, our view was incomplete. The ridge next to the one on which we stood was in the way, and prevented our seeing the ninety-mile beach, as the coast south of the Peninsula is named, and the large fresh-water lake-called the Waihola, which is only separated from the sea by a narrow bank of shingle. We could see, however, enough to satisfy us that the form of Banks' Peninsula, as laid down in the charts, is altogether faulty.- Instead of a narrow n«ck f as represented, the highland of the Peninsula rises at the point of a very obtuse triangle, which it nowhere less in breadth than the Peninsula. The mistake has undoubtedly arisen from the coast line being laid down is seen from the deck of a vessel at some distance off. The land is so low as not to be seen distinctly at a greater distance than two or three mils*.

After Kngermg tar some time enjoying the prospect, which, to an eye accustomed to wander over the ettdtaw ridget and brokm surface of the greater

part of New Zealand, was certainly most refreshing, we descended towards the plain by gentle slopes beautifully grassed, and well stocked with anise and sowthistle. The rock here is a dry crumbling basalt, so that both the herbage and the | nature of the ground are admirably adapted for the depasturing of sheep. Close to the base of the hills is a canal-looking stream, winding about with many folds— this is the stream named by Messrs. j Duppa and Daniell the Serpentine. Its native name is Upawa. For a distance of about two and a-half miles in a direct line from the sea, it is navigable for good large boats ; but, beyond that, it is shallow: where we crossed it (very little higher) it was knee deep, and rapidly diminishing in depth. Having the same outlet to the sea, is another similar but smaller stream, named the Otakaro, upon the banks of which the Messrs. Deans are located. Both these streams are said to have their source in springs; and are consequently unaffected beyond a few inches, either by the drought of summer or the heaviest rains of winter. The Messrs. Deans' farm is five or six miles from the foot of the hills of the Peninsula. The part of the plain which we crossed in walking to it is uniformly covered with grass of various sorts, mixed with toi-toi and flax in the moister parts, and, in some places, thickly dotted over with the ti-ti. The grass, generally speaking, is a tufty wire grass of a very dry nature, and not relished by stock : but there are finer grasses between these tufts, though sparingly diffused, as well as an abundg ance of a tufty grass of a larger and more succulent species, which I know from experience in this settlement is greedily eaten both by cattle and horses. I should not suppose such pasture to be capable at present of supporting a large amount of stock per acre ; but lam satisfied that, by being fed down, its value would greatly improve, and a turf of a much better character rapidly be produced. In the afternoon we reached the Messrs. Deans' station, and were most hospitably received and entertained. We found them living in an excellent weather-board verandah house, with large and substantial out-buildings, and surrounded with abundance of the comforts and necessaries, as well as many of the luxuries of life.

The next morning Mr. Tuckett arrived and reported the easy practicability of forming a road from the head of Port Cooper to the plain. He and Mr. Davisou had passed a most uncomfortable night, without fire or shelter, in clothes saturated with water, from their having waded across some streams and fallen into others.

After breakfast, we walked to the principal river flowing to the northward. It is about nine mile distant in a westerly direction from the hills of the Peninsula. Its native name is Waimakaridi which signifies cold and angry water, and it wel deserves its title. In size, it appeared to me about twice as large as the Waimea, and, like this stream, not confined to any regular bed. Its current is rapid, and it divides into numerous branches, flowing over gravelly shallows, and enclosing islands covered with a jungle of tutu and toi-toi. But the most singular thing about it is that its waters, even in the finest summer weather, are said to be always turbid ; and this certainly was the case when we saw it — for it was then of such a muddy white colour, that the stones at the bottom could not be seen beyond a depth of a few inches. I looked in vain among the pebbles of its bed for the explanation of this, finding only pieces of blue transition slates, conglomerates, and a few fragments of old igneous rocks and jaspers. The probability is, that in some part of its course it passes through a district in which soft white clays abound, which are not of sufficient consistence to bear the action of the water, but at once diffuse themselves in it. Near its mouth the river is said to be broad, still, and deep ; and on its western side are several large groves of wood. The only natives on the north end of the plain, about twelve in number, reside there, having apa named Kaiapoe. In fine weather its mouth is said to be accessible for vessels of small burden.

The day was not very favourable for a distant view, but, looking westward, we could distinguish several ranges of low hills at the foot of the great wall of mountains ; and where the coast begins to trend away to the northward, there seemed to me a large extent of country of moderate elevation. The hills in this direction, by Mr. Deans' account, are covered with grass, and a district more or less available stretches along the coast in a northerly direction, nearly as far as Lookers-on Bay.

The character of the part of the plain we walked over towards the river, was the same as that we had traversed the day before — uniformly grassy, with fern only in a very few spots : but, in returning, we had an opportunity of observing that a great breadth of it, now quite bare, must, at one time, have been covered with forest. Numerous roots and stumps still remaining in the ground, blackened by fire, and holes where others have decayed out, prove this fact incontestably. The scanty groves which still remain are encircled by withered and blackened stumps; and, if nothing be done for their preservation, will, in a few years, be entirely consumed. Each conflagration running up to the edge of the wood, sets fire to trees previously dead and half consumed, and kills and blackens others still living, to a certain distance back. These, in the next summer's fires, readily burn, and dry up' and kill those further in. In this manner, the forests are gradually encroached upon, and wasted away; and it is thus that we find nothing but stunted fern or grass upon many hills and plains, which, I feel convinced, were at one time covered with primeval forest. As regards the agricultural capabilities of the Port Cooper plain, the soil is a light and easily worked loam, well suited, I should imagine, for potatoes, oats, barley, turnips, and similar crops — hardly stiff enough for wheat. This applies, however, only to the part of it which we saw, for further south, where there is much wet land, a more clayey soil will probably be met with. Whether it would yield crops plentifully at once, without fallowing or manure, is doubtful ; for it is certain that almost •very year the plain has-been subjected to the same impoverishing burning of its vegetation, which, in my opinion, has impaired the fertility of large districts in New Zealand. But. with the immense facilities which it offers for breeding stock, this is a difficulty which would soon be obviated, while, with the genial cUmflV* which this country enjoys, the effect of manure is probably greater than in most other parts of the world. As to its adaptation for • settlement on the ays-

tern at present pursued by the New Zealand Company, there is one great and inseparable drawback —the want of wood. A large body of immigrants suddenly thrown upon it — with everything to do for themselves, and all the difficulties of eavly settling — with the ruinously high rate of . wages and provisions which necessarily results from such a combination of circumstances, would find their whole means and time consumed in procuring one of the first of necessaries, viz., fuel to cook their food — setting aside what they might require for building and fencing. With the exception of one or two insignificant groves on the plain, there is no timber nearer than the valleys of the Peninsula, from whence it would have to be carted at a great expense, or brought in boats by a precarious watercarriage. The distress and ruin which would result from such a state of things need not be pointed out ; and the colonists of New Edinburgh may well congratulate themselves that they have escaped from it. Port Cooper must be settled upon a different system. It will not do to attempt to transport a portion of society entire to it from the mother-country, as the landing of some thousand individuals upon a wilderness coast has been termed, with all their helplessness and all their wants, without any of their resources or productions. There never has been a more monstrous piece of quackery than this perpetrated. Ido not lieny that it may be the most rapid way of colonizing a country ; but, under the most favourable cirTumstances, it must always be attended with an amount of misery and ruin which no benefits of emigration or colonization can ever outbalance. The resources of Port Cooper will be best developed by persons of considerable capital — each having a range of a good many thousand acres, and thus being enabled to conbine the rearing of stock with tillage. Such'settlers should be able to wait for a time for their profits ; and to bear the expense necessarily arising from the scarcity of timber : and if, soon after commencing operations, they were to plant the forest tress of our native country— the oak, beech, and larch — in a very few years there would be abundance of wood, and they would be in possession of landed property, which, in point of climate and fertility, could hardly be surpassed. But I can fancy no situation more helpless or discouraging than that of a community of small means placed upon little patches of 10-acre or even 50acre sections — thus prevented from availing themselves of the principal natural advantage of the country — its pasture, and expending the greater part of their time, labour, and money, in a constant struggle to procure firewood enough to cook their dinners.

Mr. Tuckett's original intention was, to have walked from Banks' Peninsula to Otago — in which walk several of our party were to have accompanied him. But so much difficulty was experienced in procuring native guides and bearers, and when at length found, they were so extortionate in their demands, insisting, among other things, that they should be paid beforehand, that the intention was at length abandoned.

On the 1 lth, we left Port Cooper. The weather, during our stay there, was on the whole fine — calm with the exception of one day, when it blew from the northward; and we had one day of soft southerly rain. But, during the whole time that we were in sight of Banks' Peninsula — a period of ten- days— with the exception of the first evening, its upper part was constantly veiled in mist. Whether this was the rule or the exception, of course it is impossible to say from so short an experience. On the large plain, from what I learnt, the climate appears to be a good deal like our own. The summer is said to be very warm, with much bright weather, and less rain than could be desired ; and the frosts of winter are sharp. This is, in fact, what is generally observed on large open levels : the thermometer is higher in summer and lower in winter, than in countries of irregular surface; at the same time, within the twenty-four hours, its range is greater. The frosts, as might be expected, set in sooner on the Port Cooper plain than to the northward. A fortnight before we arrived, there had been a frost which withered the potato stalks. ' At Otago, on the other hand, which we did not reach till the 24th of April, though so much further south, and later in the season, we found the potatoes still green and flourishing. It thus appears that the frost set in at Port Cooper at least a month sooner than at Otago. But, at Otago, the potatoes which we saw were growing on wooded banks. On the lower and level districts of the country intended for New Edinburgh, I have little doubt that there was frost quite as soon as at Port Cooper. The prevalent winds, we were informed by Mr. Deans, are north-easterly, which bring the finest weather: from the N.W. it blows hardest, and the S.W. is the rainy quarter. Snow sometimes falls, but never lies throughout the day. [To be continued.']