In the Garden

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXXI, 19 November 1937, Page 3

In the Garden

Rain in the early part of the week gave the soil a thorough soaking, and will be of great benefit to crops. WORK TO BE DONE THE VEGETABLE PLOTS Sow main crop root crops such as turnips, carrots, beetroot and parsnips, and make further sowings of peas’, broad, French and runner beans, spinach, radish and lettuce to .keep up supplies. . Plant cabbage, leeks, autumn cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Plant out celery and prepare and manure trenches for the late kinds. Thin and transplant onions, stick peas and keep the soil stirred with the hoe or fork among all growing crops. Earth up the early potatoes and cultivate among the later ones. Spray fruit trees with some sulphur compound for pocket plums, mildew and leaf curl, and with arsenate of lead for codlin grub. Make small sowings either in boxes or oh a border of cabbage, savoys, curly kale, broccoli and leeks to provide plants to be put out in January. Liquid manure may be used on old blocks of rhubarb to induce more growth. The ordinary summer spinach often disappoints on light land because it runs to seed. In such positions the New Zealand spinach may now be sown, and an abundance of edible leaves possessing the true spinach favour is assured. Select the land exposed to full sun, colonies of three or four, ft apart, sowing the seeds an inch deep. The plants will soon cover the spaces between. Before sowing the seeds should be soaked in water for 24 hours, and must be sown before the dry again. THINNING IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The thinning of the various seedling crops is most important and the space allowed for each plant to develop will depend on whether one is growing for exhibition or domestic use. If for exhibition, the plants will require more room to develop, though exceptionally large specimens of the various root crops are not now' considered an advantage, and for household purposes medium sized ones are the best. A preliminary thinning should be done as soon as the seedlings arc large enough to handle, the seedlings being left about twice as thick as they will ultimately he. Before commencing the operation, which is best done immediately after rain, the scuffle hoe should be run through the space between the drills to save weeding and to stir up the soil which has been pressed down with the feet. At the preliminary thinning, carrots can be left at two inches apart, onions about the same, turnips and beet at three inches, and parsnips at six. At the final thinning more attention should be given to the health and general development of the seedlings to he left than to having thorn all the same distance apart, and in the case of shorthorn carrots, early turnips, and globe beet, the second thinning can be done as soon as the roots arc large enough for kitchen use. The main crops should rsfteive their final thinning as soon as the plants show their true character and before they become in any w'ay crowded. After thinning, give a dusting of sulphate of ammonia, blood and bone manure, or

fowl manure mixed with an equal quantity of dry soil and lightly hoed in. ’MIDST THE FLOWERS Continue to plant out summer and autumn bedding plants, the present weather conditions being very suitable. Such comparatively tender plants as dahlias, fuchsias, tuberous and fibrousrooted.begonias, salvias and zinnias can now be planted in most gardens. Stake herbaceous perennials, and thin out the seedlings of hardy annuals as soon as they are large enough to handle. Where sweet peas are to he grown as cordons (and this is the best way to get flowers for exhibition and house decoration) reduce the stems to one or two and cut of! tendrils and tie up to their supports. Remove the seed pods from the choicer azaleas and rhododendrons, and if bushes require pruning or cutting back do it now. Mark the ranunculus and anemones desired for seed saving and lift and line out spring flowering bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, and narcissus. The old-fashioned nasturtium, both the dwarf and tall varieties, are very useful for various purposes, and, being quick growing, are very good for odd places where other things have failed. Sown now, they will bloom in a few weeks. Nemesias planted now should be planted in half shade. Carnations should now be disbudded if good blooms are wanted. Any bedding out should be done as soon as the weather is suitable. Scarlet salvias, cosmea, petunias, zinnias, French and African marigolds are amongst the most popular autumn, flowers. Celosias, portulacas, amaranthus, balsams and others of the more tender annuals may be planted now. Cosmea are also suitable for present planting. They being strong growers, choose a sheltered back border. Fuchsias, gaillardias. pelargoniums, lantas and marguerite chrysanthemums are useful flowering perennials that arc suitable for present planting; also heliotropes. Sow Sweet Williams for next season’s flowering. If transplanted while quite small they make large plants by March or April, and are then ready lo be planted into their flowering position. Growing suitable plants in very dry places is often quite a problem. Verbena and petunias are very suitable for such places. Phlox Drummondi also is very good but it requires more moisture than either verbena or petunias. Canterbury bells, with their large and gorgeous flowers are indispensable. Choose a sunny position. Sown now. the seedlings will make large plants before autumn, and will he ready for planting. Roses are now flowering well, and every chance should be given to the plants by picking off the spent flowers ; and also by a certain amount of disbudding. One ounce of nitrate of potash and two ounces of superphosphates to four gallons of water is a good liquid twice a week to roses, but always give a good soaking of clear water first.