In the Garden.

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 18 December 1936, Page 3

In the Garden.

WORK TO BE DONE

THE VEGETABLE PLOTS

Tomatoes must lie kept staked or supported. Side shoots must be pinched out and the plants sprayed. It is best not to apply much water or manure until the fruit has commenced to set.

Preparation should now be made for the setting of next winter’s crops. As plots become available the ground may be set with oats for green manure while the plants are being raised. Sow for next winter’s crop borecole or curly greens. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red picklipg cabbage, savoy, drumbead cabbage, leeks and celery.

Deep cultivation by either hoeing or forking between Hie plants is essential to success at this season of the year. Hoe between the rows and draw the soil up to tlm plants. This gives more loose coil for the roots to work in, and also acts as a mulch and a support to the plants. Continue planting sweet corn in drills and thin out 1 lie plants to one foot apart. These are often used for growing round marrows and pumpkins for shelter.

The following may be set now: —Peas and beans, broccoli, carrots, parsnips, ladisii, licet, turnip, parsley, lettuce, un-umber and marrows

Plenty of water will be required as (be young seeds germinate, otherwise the fertility may be burnt out of the plants. Backward crops can be hasten cd on with liquid manure, and eonriant hoeing between the rows will keep the soil loose.

The points of the running shoots of pumpkins etc., should be pinched out to cause laterals to form.

’MIDST THE FLOWERS

Creepers may now he planted. Nothing can disguise an old fence or tree i-.tump like a creeper. The following varieties are all hardy and easily grown ; —Doliches, asparagus, mandevillea, min a lobata, bignonia, akebit and clematis.

Salpiglossis are now ready for planting. They require a warm spot and do weli in any soil The flowers are beautifully veined and marked and the colouring gorgeous. Plan about 18 inches apart. Clear away any plants that have done flowering, fork over the soil, and replant with some autumn flowering plant. Bulbs that did not flower well last year or those that have been in the ground for some vears, should now be lifted and cleaned prior to replanting Most of tiie bulbs will no who dormant, and the sooner the lifting is done the better. For planting underneath trees and shrubs on the lawn, petunias are splendid subjects. They soon cover the ground, growing in semi-creeper habit end yielding masses of cup-shaped flow-

ers .A little water now and then is all that is required. Plant twelve inches apart. . Rhizomateous irises can be lifted, divided and replanted once they have finished flowering. To prevent rhizome rust treat the ground with fertiliser. If Avatering is being done, let it he thorough. One good soaking is better ihau a whole lot of light splashes. After watering loosen the surface of the soil by hoeing or working to prevent undue evaporation. One good water should last a week. In many cases plants have to do without any and survive.

Sow the following seeds for late autumn flowering: —Phlox, petunia, color,ia, cockscomb, mnrigeid, cosmos, poriel acca, amarantlius. If you wish to keep your plants flowering, spent and dead blooms must he removed to prevent seed pods forming. Lobelia eardiualis is a plant of recent introduction and one worthy of summer planting. The foliage is a dull red colour growing about 1 foot high and producing spikes of scarlet flowers similar to a delphinium. The foliage dies back in the winter and comes up early spring. Chrysanthemums will need attention by staking, c-te. Should aphis appear spray at once. Any good nicotine preparation will lie effective. Disbud border carnations. This is necessary, even if the. (lowers are only grown for cutting. Keep the blooms supported to prevent the stems becoming bent.