IN THE GARDEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 19 June 1931, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN

MID-WINTER OPERATIONS THE VEGETABLE PLOTS Wintry weather brings with it the cessation of growth. At this time of the year there is it tendency among amateur gardeners to consider work finished for I lie season. The experienced gardener knows (hat the work is never finished. A special oll’ort, should he made to get rid of all weeds. This elVort will result in a saving of labour at busier times, later in the year.

Where Die conditions are favourable, and the soil is not too wet the following vegetable seeds may be sown: —- Onions, carrot, parsnip, beet, radish, lettuce, broad beans, early peas. The following plants are ready for setting: Onions, rhubarb roots, asparagus, strawberries, cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce.

Artichokes are ready for digging. These are best left in the ground till required, although if it is necessary to clear the ground they can lie dug and stored.

Parsley is easily grown, and also makes a very neat, edging to the path in the vegetable garden. Sow the seed now, and thin out Hie plants to nine inches apart.

Clean the asparagus bed, cutting down the old "grass” and raking oil all weeds and some of the loose soil. Apply a layer of seaweed or manure and cover with a little soil.

New asparagus beds slioud be prepared. In place of wide beds containing three or four rows of plants, single rows are now planted. Deeply worked and well mauled soil is necessary.

Seed potatoes for early planting should he sprouted. Sprouted seed lias a three weeks’ start of unsprouted, and any blind or weak tubers can lie picked out before planting. 1

Do not be too anxious to get on the ground or work soil when saturated. It will pay you to wait a few days for the soil to dry out a little. Ground for early potatoes and peas should be prepared. A good deal of the success of early crops depends upon whether Hie soil is well drained. Planting on raised beds or on gentle slopes all tend to let the surplus water drain oil' quickly. Of course freedo,m from frost is also a factor, hut free drainage is (.lie principle lo achieve. The slug at this season is one of Hie greatest pests of the garden. Every elVort should be made to keep the ground free from weeds or other debris, in which tiiey can hide. Cabbage and such like will receive benefit from having the soil pulled up to the stalks; it not only keeps the plants firm, but it helps to throw off surplus water and keeps the roots d rier.

Drains and water channels should be kept open to ensure the surplus water gets away quickly without flooding. This is a good time to go over the tool shed and give a good clean up and overhaul. Tools should be thoroughly cleaned, sharpened and oiled. The wooden handles of spades, hoes, etc., last much longer if given a coating of linseed oil occasionally. Rhubarb is very easy of cultivation. It succeeds best in rich, dee]) soil well dug and drained. Plenty of rotted stable manure trenched under tho roots makes all the. difference between good and had stems. Rhubarb is a gross feeder and requires plenty of water and soil manure, The roots rarely suffer from any disease, and so long as the crowns are kept free from weeds they will continue to hoar fruit for a long period. The roots should he planted with the crowns buried about iliii under the soil 3ft. apart To the rows, and 3ft to 4ft between the rows in a light position. The plant should never be allowed to flower, and the (lower stalk should be cut away as soon as lit makes its appearance. When the stalks are ready for using never cut them from the plant. The stalks are bent downward and jerked up from the crown of the plants, taking care not to bring up the curved pink portion at the bottom. They should never he broken off and left, as this is detrimental to the plant.

■ 'MIDST THE FLOWERS The gardener who looks a long way off is now busy at work, for many of the flowers which make the next spring show are asking attention. Foremost in this sic are aquilegia (known as columbine) delphinium, polyanthus, primrose, Canterbury bells, and gaillnrdia.

With the aquilegia the single varieties are preferable, especially the longspurred species. There* is no other flower more novel, and none more pure in colouring. Delphiniums make an excellent show. They need plenty of room and moisture, hut do,not work the soil too close to their rootlets. They are touchy about that. Besides tho beautiful long spikes the serrated foliage is handsome. The gorgeous butterfly strain is much ahead of the others.

For table decoration the gaillurdia is lmrd to heat. The flowers are on long water in the vases is changed. For choice the double-quilled species is recommended. , JisSSSI

The planting of ornamental, ever green and deciduous trees and shrubs, including shelter trees, hedge plants, roses-and other permanent shrubs nmy be proceeded with. , Deciduous trees and shrubs need no pervious preparation. At the time of removal, take them up with as little injury to their roots as possible. Primula malacoides, a pretty mauve (lower used with ncmesia strumosa, makes a line display bedded together and- flowers for weeks on end from August.

Prune vour rose trees before any new growth starts. Cut. away all dead wood and thin out any unnceessary liranehes. Use sharp secateurs and make a good clean cut, always cutting to the outside bud. Keep the hoc constantly busy nmong the (lower beds. This will help to dry up the soil and so prevent damping off. Canterbury bell and foxglove are much alike. ' They carry spikes of hellshaped flowers, and make the best showing jf massed. Polyanthus and primroses are also alike. They are host used as borders. Plant the following flower seeds in pans or shallow trays:—Cineraria, stocks, Iceland poppy, pansy, gaillardia, ealliopsis, nemesia and antirrhinum. The following can he sown in clumps

or drilled along borders in sheltered spots:—Mignonette, linaria, alssum, Virginian stock.

Rose trees and all ornamental shrubs tmiy he planted from June till August. Plenty of well-rooted leaves or stable manure tronebs under the plants will give, tile best results. Lawns showing signs of moss should he limed with air slaked niche lime. This will sweeten the ground and kill out the moss. Blood and bone and superphosphate arc the best topdressing manures for present use. Rockeries are now looking bare and dismal. Cut back tile finished geraniums and untidy looking plants. Fill up the spaces with bright annuals for spring flowering. Cuttings of many shrubs, especially deciduous kinds, can he made during wet days. After making heel them in wet moss or soil, and they can be kept until the soil is in lit condition for planting. Polyanthus,- primoses, esehevorias, and box edgings can be taken up and replanted. All kinds of “live”- edgings get ragged after a season or so, and should bo renovatd occasionally. Bulbs are showing through the ground, and where weeds are showing dig between the rows of lmlbs with a digging fork. Just skim off two or three inches of the surface soil and turn it over.

Dahlias arc sufficiently ripened off to take up. Carefully name and. allow them to remain exposed on the surface before working the*soil out from among the tubers, preparatory to storing them. The tubers are susceptible to frosts, and must be protected by covering them on frosty nights. Now is the time to prepare for the propagation of Chrysanthemum plants by taking olf cuttings in shallow trays and the rooted suckers in trays or in beds in the open. Where the chrysanthemums are placed here and there in the mixed border the best system is to carefully lift them with the soil attached to the roots; and to replant them closely together in a place where the soil is fairly dry and take cuttings off when ready.