PRUNING FRUIT TREES

Northern Advocate, 24 July 1943, Page 5

PRUNING FRUIT TREES

One of Ihe first objects in pruning is (o shape lhe tree. The main branches. Three or lour in number, are developed ai from 12in. to 18in. above the ground; or in very exposed positions, this height should be reduced by nearly hall'. These main branches are shortened back to fin. to (Jin. from the .main trunk. The shape to aim at is that of a tumbler. Aim to make the new growth grow outward. 11 necessary, a flatter angle may be encouraged by cutting as far above the bud as possible, the stubs being cut away after the new shoots have gone some distance Always aim at giving the fruit its fill) share of sunlight. When the centre opening is well defined, the outside branches can be left closed together. Peaches and nectarines tend to grow upwards, and to develop lower down small growths that readily decay. These can be kept healthy by cutting hard back, and all inside branches should be cut out. Towards the end of the branches.' there are often two branchleis, one growing straighter than the other. Cut this leaning branch away every year. Remove and incinerate all dead shoots or mummified fruit. After planting, orange and lemon trees should be cut back to about 30m. from the ground. With orange- trees, any strong growing limb should be cut back a little the second year so as to keep tile plantin good balance. Also remove any lowgrowing limb up to a height of 13in. from ihe ground. Subsequent pruning will consist of thinning-out central portions where growth is too heavy, and of cutting back or removing suckers or weak limbs. Lemons require rather' more pruning, as they usually develop longer and more slender growth. With older but. vigorous irees, the pruning may be done in midsummer, with tlie object of encouraging the fruiting habit. Do not allow branches of cilrus trees to reach near enough to the ground to be splashed by rain-water deflected from the soil, otherwise fungoid diseases may be encouraged.