new Seasons forecast BRIGHT and SMART

Manawatu Times, Volume 61, Issue 291, 9 December 1936, Page 14

new Seasons forecast BRIGHT and SMART

Gracious Lines The Coronation Influence (From Our London Correspondent) IHE attenuated figure is not so popular with designers this season as it has been for the last year or so —which must be good news to women who, however much they diet and exercise, cannot reduce to the ultra slender silhouette. Features of the best of the new models are a neat, defined waist line, a moulded bodice which demands a moderately developed bust to be a success, the high neck line in day dresses, and either a flared skirt or one which looks straight but has cleverly placed pleats. Day time colours remain quiet, black being still the first favourite, with blue, brown, wine shades and a little green here and there. There is a tentative suggestion of the red, white and blue alliance, in anticipation, no doubt, of a burst of loyalty when Coronation clothes are ordered. Meantime, some designers show desirable models in a silvery grey tone reminiscent of well-kept pewter. This appears in suits and frocks for wear out. of doors, and in graceful gowns for the evening.

The defined waist line is not necessarily belted. The smartest models, in fact, rely entirely upon clever fitting and useful buttons to achieve the neatly moulded effect, and some dressmakers, using buttons for practical purposes, make them decorative, too. Tiny flowers made of some composition, little barrels, stars, crowns, tassels and miniature hunting horns fasten bodices in front and provide the colour note at the same time.

The high neck line —often high in front only and dropping slightly at the back—finds its natural complement in long sleeves, and here individual taste is considered. On some frocks enormous sleeves, in . the Bishop manner, look very well, sometimes made of white muslin or fine lawn in contrast to the black, navy or dark green of the dress itself. Long, tight sleeves are correct with the more tailored dresses; they terminate in points over the hands and are frequently finished with tiny muslin frills. Shoulders are .generally rather broad, an effect secured in the case of full sleeves by setting them in with rows of shirring. With tight sleeves the shoulder line itself is extended and may be slightly stiffened. Black silk jersey and dark coloured crepes are popular materials for neat little jacket suits, worn with blouses in vivid colours, some plain, more patterned. But white satin, beautifully draped, is thj ideal complement for the black silk suit. One famous designer uses a lovely pale blue shade, in chiffon, for the blouse. It seems probable that the becoming Directoire line will be retained for some of the season’s evening gowns. It is a flattering 'ine and can be adopted by the woman who is fairly plump, providing she is fairly tall as well—it would not be kind to the short, plump figure. Ottoman silk is liked for models of this type; also rather heavy satin and very fine velvet. The Princess silhouette, beltless, neatly fitted, and buttoned in front or at the back, is as good for the evening as for the day, and this, too, needs a firm fabric for complete success.