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GA RDEN & FIELD

(Specially written for tho “Mana

Routine Work in the Borders,

Trench all land intended for the making of new flower borders, whether for annuals, biennials or perennials. Lightly fork over tho surface of existing perennial borders whenever soil conditions arc suitable, working in some manure.

Plant shrubs and roses of all kinds, and remember that firm planting is essential to success.

Loosen the surface soil among bulbs to give them a chance of rapid growth. Preparo trenches for tho spring sowing of sweet peas. Layer shrubs. Continue the planting of hardy annuals and perennials, for although these will not make much headway until the warmer weather, they will be getting firmly rooted. Make plans for new bedding or planting schemes in the garden. Lay in a stock of turf, leafmould, sand and manure for spring work. plant liliums in sandy, leaf-mould soil.

Prune roses where early blooms are looked for.

Prune hydrangeas. These produce much liner heads of bloom if growths are restricted to about a dozen. Take cuttings from Chrysanthemum plants and place in boxes or in beds in tho reserve garden. The old clumps may then be discarded- and the space refilled with early spring flowers. Plant generously of stocks, and if grown in well drained soil these will bloom very early. Dust carnations or any choice plants with lime or soot. Remove all dead leaves and other rubbish .from them. The Vegetable Garden Plant onion, lettuce, cabbage and early cauliflower plants. Also sow seeds of these in boxes for later supply. Sow the first early tomatoes, peas aud broad beaus. Topdress the rhubarb and asparagus beds with kainit, and also prepare new beds. Plant all kinds of fruit trees when soil and weather conditions permit. Use lime freely when planting any stone fruits. Continue all pruning . operations in suitable weather.

Plant a few potatoes in warm spots. Give fruit trees a winter spraying. > Preparo hot-beds. Saponarias Those atpines trail delightfully over stones or boulders in tho rock garden and elsewhere. Saponarias, or soapworts as they are sometimes called, are must useful, and their only fault is a limited Tango of colour, which is confined to shades of pink, yellow and white. They remain in flower for a considerable length of time, and after the plants have finished blooming, the seed pods arc most ornamental and one finds difficulty in deciding whether to shear the plant of this glory or sacrifice a small autumn flowering season. The pink variety blooms during October and November and appears to wonderful advantage when placed so as to overhang a large rock, with the pretty mauve campanula laurii nestling beneath.

These plants are easily raised from seed, and stock once obtained may be divided when becoming too large. The annual pruning back is very beneficial to the plant, which then makes now trailers. Tho pink variety goes under the name of saponaria ocymoides, .and produces a wealth of flowers. The white form is very good for a shady spot, but out in full sunshine it loses much of its purity. Saponaria belidifolia is the dwarf of the genus, being only four inches high, with heads of bright yellow flowers, but is not of trailing habit.

Planting Lilacs The lilac, unfortunately, receives but scant care in many gardens. Little trouble is taken over pruning or attention to the soil, and, as a result, the bushes naturally do not make the line flower display of which they are capable. They are suitable for the shrubbery, but make very lino specimens when grown individually. If they can be given shelter from cutting winds, so much the better, and a good, sunny site suits them well. When planting, a good space should be allowed, for the lilac develops rapidly and will not produce a profusion of blossom unless the growths are well ripened. As to pruning, it is an advantage to do this when the panicles bloom fade. They should be cut out and any overcrowded or weak growth taken away at the same time. Sometimes lilacs get a little out of hand and become stalky. If this happens they should be cut well back, although it will probably mean the flowers will have to be dispensed with for the ensueing season. There is now a great variety to pick and chooso from and some of tho modern lilacs are decidedly attractive. One named Wollii, from China, is a deep purple colour and, strango to say, this colour is greatly admired by some and greatly disliked by others. Reflexa, also from China, makes tall, upright growth, fifteen feet often being obtained. The leaves arc largo, some five inches in length, the weight of the deep rose or dark pink flowers giving the tree a graceful arched appearance. A little beauty of stiff, dwarf habit, named Palabiniana, has lilac-coloured flowers overlaid with red. Tho more common varieties are useful for Ailing in the background of .tho shrubbery. Lilacs are very partial to lime and a dressing forked in annually around them will be found beneficial. Double lilacs are liked by some, but are decidedly heavier in appearance. Yv T hite lilacs provide a foil for those of deeper tones.

Why Wall Climbers Fail. Extra attention should be given to wall climbers in times of drought. Most climbers and twining plants rooting in that deplorable soil at the foot of rouse-walls fail in summer months for want of moisture. If they wero in ail open position they would get their share from the water-can and benefit from rain. Where there is ample foliage and overhanging eaves, little rain penetrates to the roots of climbers at tbe base of a wall. It is therefore not surprising that clematis fails z rambler

•atu Daily Times 55 by “Lorna.’ 5 )

roses arc considered bad doers, and vines and certain other plants are attacked with mildew.

If half the pains wore taken in preparing a border for wall climbers that are taken for roso borders, etc., there would be loss failures during trying weather conditions among flowering and foliage plants than is tho case at present. In summer and early autumn the soil should be tested around wall plants after rain, and if still dry, give a thorough soaking and then place over the roots a mulch of decayed manuro or lawn clippings. Thorough preparation of the soil should always be given by deeply digging, and working into the lower spit some decayed manure, and, in the case of clematis, add plenty of broken-up limestone. Planting Lily of the Valley

An old and favourite flower rich ic perfume, tho lily of the valley, is oftea sadly neglected in some gardens. Frequently it is assigned some out of the way corner, left to itself for years, and forgotten to such an extent that tho roots becomo so overgrown and matted together that tho few flowers furnished are poor in quality. These lilies cannot go for an indefinite time without showing signs of deterioration, and nothing short of taking the roots up, sorting them, and replanting in good material can save them.

If not already done, this work should bo immediately seen to. After digging them all out, if a new sito is not available, deeply dig the old one, mixing ill ■some new loam, if possible, leaf mould, and rooted manure, which will give good results. Bonemeal, too, may be worked in with the top spit and is very lasting in nature. The old crowns should be pulled to pieces and the largest separated from the small conns, planting the latter in a spot by themselves where they can recuperate and become established. Once established, lily of the valley benefits greatly it given weak applications of manure ocFor some reason not easy to understand, these encouragements are little thought of; yet how we appreciate tho fragranco of the pure white, dainty bells. When tho bod has been planted, cover with a coating of fine leaf mould. No better mulch can bo given them. The pale pink variety will be a favourite when better known. Fragrant Flowers

With a few exceptions, fragrant flowers arc either white or pale coloured. The reason for this is not far to seek: They have to make up for their lack of colour by fragrance to attract the insects, upon which their fertilisation depends. These, as often as not, are night-flying moths, which arc guided to the flower by their pale colour aud sweet smell, which is always much more noticeable at nightfall on account of the stillness of the air. This is exemplified very clearly by the honeysuckle family (lonicera japonica) which grows in bush-liko form with small, creamy flowers in pairs along the steins, naS an almost overpowering fragrance, especially at night. In contrast, the beautiful Chinese honeysuckle, with long golden tubes and bronzo foliage, and tho scarlet Brownii, arc devoid of perfume. Fragrance also depends to a great ex tent on the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere. It is thus all the more remarkable to find so many of tho plants which flower in the winter and early spring are sweet-scented. The winter sweet, winter heliotrope, and violets may be cited as examples. A little later we get a wholo host of sweet scented bulbs together with daphne and lucullia. Then attention is drawn to the lily of the valley, lilacs, mock oranges and then roses anad sweet peas. Other annuals are stocks, wallflowers, pinks, night-scented stock, mignonette and sweet rocket. The last was a greatfavourite of Marie Antoinette. It is known in Franco by tho pretty name of Julienne dcs Jardins. Evening primroses aud tobacco plants arc fragrant after dark, and tho lovely jasmine, an old-time favourite, must not bo forgotten. The fragrance of a bunch of primroses is refreshing, and the wild wood violet outdoes any other variety of violet for perfume.

A Lesson Prom Wordsworth God made the flowers to beautify The earth, and' cheer man’s careful mood; And he is happiest who has power To gather wisdom from a flower, .And wake his heart in every hour To pleasant graitiudo.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/MT19350726.2.109

Bibliographic details

Manawatu Times, Volume 60, Issue 174, 26 July 1935, Page 11

Word Count
1,681

GARDEN & FIELD Manawatu Times, Volume 60, Issue 174, 26 July 1935, Page 11

GARDEN & FIELD Manawatu Times, Volume 60, Issue 174, 26 July 1935, Page 11