THE GARDEN.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LI, Issue 199, 24 July 1931, Page 4

THE GARDEN.

Notes are published under this head; are invited to send in questions relating advice; answers will be published with (

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Herbaceous perennials are increasy ing in popularity every year not only on account of their permanency, but because most of them are good for cutting and will keep the borders gay over a long period without the trouble of replanting which lias to be done when annuals are used. To get the best out of them, however, they have to be well cultivated and each variety has to be treated according to its requirements. No rules will apply to the whole lot the same. A brief description of what herbaceous perennials are may be of use to those who are not well up in gardening terms. A perennial is a plant that grows year after year from the same root, and the term herbaceous is the name given to a race of plants which throw up flower stems each year and in some cases two or three times in a season and then die back to the base. Such plants as delphiniums will throw up stems all through the season and give several crops of blooms, but to get them to do this it is necessary to stop them from ripening seed. Some of the perennial sunflowers will do the same. Most of the perennial plants will continue to increase and bloom each year, out there are some tliat become so overcrowded that it is imperative that they, should be taken up and small pieces replanted in * the ground. Michaelmas daisies are of this type and it has been found that a small piece replanted each year will give far better results than can be attained by leaving the old clump alone. Being such strong growers it is necessary when replanting to work in some manure as they soon exhaust the soil and the flowers deteriorate in consequence. Perennial phloxes will last in the soil for a considerable time, but when they become overcrowded they also must be broken up and replanted. On the other hand, when paeonies are once planted they should be left undisturbed and as long as some well-rotted manure is worked in around them they will be alright. Many of the herbaceous plants can be grown from seed and it will generally be found that these one year seedlings are strong, healthy, and vigorous, but they do not flower the first year. In some cases herbaceous plants will not come true from seed and these must be grown from offsets. Whichever way the plants are grown they will be found to be well worth while for garden and house decoration. The perennial gaillardias' are looked upon as the longest keeping flowers grown and will last in water for a fortnight or even more.

SOWING FINE SEEDS. Fine seeds require special attention not only with regard to the soil they are sown in, but to the care that must be taken in watering and handling when they come up. When sowing fine seeds it is a good plan to use carefully cleaned pots. Put in some crocks for drainage, then some spaglinum moss which will ensure even moisture. When making up a mixture for smalj seeds use about a third each of good, coarse, clean sand, "good loam from a stack, and well-rotted leaf mould. Mix these together and work them through a fairly fine sieve. The coarser parts will do for the bottom and the finer for the top. Leave about half an inch of the pot between the soil and the top so that it can be covered with glass and leave a little space for the seeds to grow in. For these fine seeds it is a good plan to bake the soil slowly for a while as it kills germs and destroys many of the weeds. Before sowing stand the. pots in a bucket of water until the soil is thoroughly soaked through and then allow them to drain for at least twenty-four hours. Sprinkle the seed carefully on the surface and cover with a dusting of fine soil and then put the glass on. If the weather is hot and sunny cover with a sheet of paper for a few days, but the paper must be removed as soon as the seeds begin to grow.

. SOME POINTS ABOUT LIME. The following is taken from the Victorian Journal of Agriculture: “After the excessively wet season just experienced soil will be greatly benefited by an application of lime. Lime tends to leave the surface soil through various channels, and fresh applications become necessary to maintain fertility. Carbonate of lime is the best form to use for the soil. Burnt and slaked lime are rapidly changed to carbonate when applied to the soil. The rate at which lime acts depends upon the fineness of division. Lime, especially hot lime, has a good effect upon the mechanical condition of stiff clays. Lime hastens the production of nitrates. It has a good-effect in liberating potash and phosphoric acid, especially when the latter is combined with iron or alumina. "Where required by soil lime produces larger crops. It produces root crops which are of greater feeding value per ton. It may often be a valuable application to grass. Lime kills sorrel, docks and other acid loving weeds. It is especially stimulating to all leguminous crops. Lime will not act if phosphate is deficient. The surest method of determining the need for lime is to dress trial strips and await results.” QUESTION. “Amateur” says: “Can you give me some advice. I want to grow some

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plants in rather a shady border. The soil is splendid and very deep, but I do not know what to put in it. One friend has recommended paeonies and another polyanthuses and primroses, I do not mind what thev are as long as I call' get some flowers from this spot and make the shrubbery look better. I could supply them with water if required. The shade is greater during summer than winter.” —The place would not be suitable for paeonies; they like a deep soil, but not shade. Polyanthuses and primroses would be suitable. Get good strong plants and get them established before the dry weather comes on. Nurserymen will have good strong plants "in flower which can be safely planted at any time now. Solomon’s seal is a shade loving plant and could be planted now. It likes a deep, rich soil and moistu r e in the dry weather. We fancy most satisfactory’ plants for the position would be the winter flowering helebores. They like a shaded position and when once established will seed them wives down, 'and ilic.re.ase rapidly. Once established, they do not like disturbance. Some of the named varieties are very beautiful and free flowering.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Unfortunately the soil this month has been too wet for cultivation and has had to be deferred for some future occasion when it is drier, but because July has been so wet it does not follow that August will be the same. The first and most important work is to dig the ground over and leave it rough so that it can dry out quickly when the weather is finer. The first crops to get in are lettuces which should be planted in well manured raised beds. If the beds are left on the level of the soil they are likely to be too wet and cold, but by raising them a few inches the water will get away quicker and the warmer soil will start the plants growing. Peas can also be planted in a warm corner of the garden and it is better to raise the rows for them also. Both the above crops must be protected from birds which-'are very destructive to them. In some places they will have to be protected from slugs and there is nothing bettor than a dhsting of lime for this, especially if it is given in the evening. Some gardens are lucky enough to have hedgehogs and where these animals are busy the slugs will soon disappear. Whether thev are an advantage or not thev soon clean up slugs, but are rather liable to take eggs and even chickens. Down near Wellington where thev are very plentiful gardeners welcome them in spite of the fact that they have to make the poultry secure. Another thing that, can be planted as soon as the ground is dry enough are onions. This crop is a very valuable one to the home gardener and, like the apple, it is said “an onion a day keeps the doctor away.” and incidentally often other people also, but there is no doubt about it being a health giving food. Later on about the middle of the month potatoes can be planted. Some manure is wanted for the trenches the sets are put into. Some soils are better with stable manure and others like a heavy manure, but in any case some manure must be used to get the /best results. Never put in many at one time for the first planting as the crop is never so good as another about a month later. Cabbages and cauliflowers can be planted out at any time now. Put in a few at a time and then you will have a succession of useful vegetables to follow on with. All carrots and parsnips that are in the ground should be lifted and nut into a box of sand where they will keep.

PRUNING FRUIT TREES. Fruit trees can be pruned at any time now and in most gardens there are a few trees that require some attention. Hard cutting induces heavy wood growth and if the trees are in full bearing cut as lightly as possible. "When there are plenty of fruit bearing spurs on a tree it is a good plan to shorten some of them back. For instance, a lateral mav have three orfour sets of buds on it and if some of these are cut away it will improve the fruit on those that are left. Sturmers are often much better for this treatment. Peaches and nectarines must he gone over carefully and all dead and dying twigs removed. If either of these trees are getting too tall it is a good plan to cut a part right away and to allow some new wood to form for later cropping. Plums require very little cutting. In fact, to cut them induces them to grow too much and this is at the expense of fruiting. Prune gooseberry bushes by removing all unnecessary branches and shortening those back that are getting near the ground. These plants like a dressing of manure worked into the surface of the soil. Do not use a spade, hut fork the manure in so a.s not to destroy any more roots than can be helped.