THE EVOLUTION OF A TAILORMADE GOWN.

Lyttelton Times, Volume CI, Issue 11885, 8 May 1899, Page 6

THE EVOLUTION OF A TAILORMADE GOWN.

A VISIT.TO THE KAIAPOI WOOLLEN MILLS. (By. D.A.C.) Between the sheepskin cloak of the Tartar woman and the glossy Avell-cut tailormade gown of the up-to-date lady, there is a Avhole world of difference. Yet- the material in both is the same. In the latter case, however, the raAv avoo! has been transformed by the fairy-like touch of the inventor’s genius into a material, which, if not indeed “ ricli and strange,” is at least fit to be Avom Avith pride by the greatest lady in the land.

I had heard a great deal about the Kaia.poi Woollen Mills. Most of us have, I fancy, but unless we are of a particularly inquisitive turn of mind most women, 1 think, are satisfied to know that there is such a place where they make tweeds, and blankets and travelling- rugs.: A conservative friend shrugged her shoulders the other day when I mentioned- Kaiapoi cloth, “Colonial! I always buy English make, it is so much superior, you know.’’ But she changed her opinion, when she saw some exquisite face cloths made just about twelve miles from her home in Christchurch, and I believe she will henceforward dress in colonial doth, and feel better garbed than ever before in her life. Naturally the manufacture of the cloths, flannels, and othgr woollen fabrics which make our winter not only endurable, but actually pleasant, was a subject about winch I felt a good deal of curiosity. When the opportunity presented itself one day this week of paying a visit to the mills I gladly availed myself of it. A lovely warn Indian summer day, sunny and clear, made the drive to Kaiapoi most enjoyable. We were quite prepared to see a grim-looking cluster of iall buildings, with stacks of all of them -smokeblackened and generally desolate in appearance. But to our delighted surprise there was nothing of the kind. We were struck, on the contrary, with-the air of brightness and cleanliness, of the approach to’the mills arid by the pretty situation of its red brick buildings. Just across the road lies the Kaiapoi Domain,, just now bright with', the bronze and gold of its -autumn dress, while across the north-west horizon stretch the purple ridges of the Malvern Hills, with Oxford and Mount Grey in the foreground. As we entered the well kept drive, we passed the pretty garden of the gate-keeper, whose love of flowers showed itself in the strip of llow-er-brightened lawn that skirts one side of the approach to the mills, and in the presence of the large rose bush laden with creamy blossoms that luxuriates against; the brick wall of the big loom shed. Instead of a woollen mill you might be at the entrance to some large public institution, so neat and clean is the exterior of the large one-storied building that spreads itself along the south hank of the Gam, and within which is carried, on such an important industry. -v: ' The interior is no less bright and wellcared: for, as we find out presently under the courteous guidance of Mr T. Leithhead, the son'/of the manager, and newly appointed assistant, whose explanations threw considerable light upon the various processes by which a sheep’s fleece is transformed into a piece of cloth. First of all we entered the wool-sorters shed. Here was the raw wool as it had fallen under . the shears, greasy, not too clean, and redolent of an odour which was by no means that of “ India’s spicy breezes.” Although we were assured that it was exceedingly healthy, we did not pause long here to reap its benefit, but passed on to the scouring room, where the wool was being well washed -with hot water and soap in a long trough, whence it emerged from between two rollers, beautifully clean and nearly dry. It was now ready for dying, after which it is dried! by means of a hot air blast manipulated by . an ingeniously contrived machine. Now it is taken to another room where a machine teases it, after which .it is oiled, without which it could not be spun, .. After this it goes to the carding arid spinning machines, the most wonderful—to, the feminine mind at least—of all the branches connected with the woollen manufacture. The short woolly fibres have now become' thin strands of yarn, such, as will be seen by untwisting a thread of the warp or woof of a piece of cloth. But these strands arc nob' yet ready for the weaving looms. They must, be doubled, that is, two threads are twisted together, and then the thread is ready for tho spindles of th e looms. These are set up in-a large roof-lighted shed, and the sight,of the one hundred and two machines - all busily' weaving yards and yards of cloth was- one that will not be easily forgotten; one making a lovely tan cloth, another busy with white serge, 'another was weaving blankets, another coral pink flannel. It was fascinating to watch the spindles shooting to ana fro as inch by inch of the material was produced, and we could have spent hours here, had not the noise of so many machines proved somewhat disconcerting to our ears. The loom-workers, however, mostly women, did not seem to mind the noise in the slightest degree. The advantage of having the Mills built as they are, of brick and of one story only was very apparent here; the other departments were in no way disturbed by the noise and jarring that would otherwise be inevitable where so many looms are at work.

But even now the cloth, blankets, or other materials, are not ready for the .shopcounter. Surprising as it may appear to the uninitiated, a thorough washing with soap and water is the next process, and it is delightful to notice the creamy whiteness of the blankets and white cloths as they emerge from their complicated-looking washtubs. , They must now be milled to give them firmness and closeness, and, after being dried, they pass to the finishing machine, which raises the fleecy nap. In the face cloths tins is done by means of a roller covered with the dried heads of "the teasel. As we reached this machine, a splendid piece of tan-coloured cloth, suitable for the finest quality of gentlemen’s, covert coats, was being finished with a surface, like the'finest suede kid. . We all, made up our minds on the spot as to the, material we should choose for our winter capes and sacque coats. I must not -forget to mention that this process is in charge of the. only man in New Zea-. land who is able to put this exquisite finish on the cloth, and naturally be was regarded by our party with great interest. Finally came the pressing room, where the cloth is smoothed out in hydraulic presses, after which it is quite ready for your inspection, Mesdames, and to be turned into the tailor-made gowns which arc fast becoming the favourite costumes of the most elegantly-dressed women. Here we were shown a large of samples already, in preparation for the coming spring and summer, for so great is the demand for these that it is necessary to get them, ready quite six months ahead. Some beautiful examples were in the becoming shepherd’s plaids in black and, white, fawn and white, brown and white, olive green and white. These are so beautifullyfinished that no one could dream of preferring the English material to it, especially when one considers that this colonial doth is .entirely free from shoddy or from artificial thickening of any kind.

In stillanother department we saw hosiery being made,., this term comprising of course the warm I 'woollen underwear that is such an important feature of Kaiapoi goods, football jerseys in various club colours,, stockings, etc. ; all these are made here in great variety. • A very pleasing feature about this great hive of industry was the healthy appearance of the workers, and particularly of the women and girls. This is by no means surprising, for their comfort has been well looked after, and the clean, well-ventilated and lighted workrooms afford the very besi: of conditions for carrying on work in the various departments. A library and a large dining-room are further evidences of the Company’s care for its employees, of whom there are over four hundred busy all the year round at Kaiapoi alone, while some five

or six hundred more are employed in the factory in toAvn. One could not help being impressed Avith the value to the colony' of this oiie Canterbury industry alone, Avhich not only provides-the community with a market for its raw produce on the spot, but produces an article of commerce superior to imported goods, and a.t the same time provides. steady and healthy employment to at least a thousand people. I, for one, was greatly impressed with the resources of our little colony, nor could one help Avishing that every colonial Avoma.n could have the opportunity of seeing for herself the various interesting processes of making cloth from wool grown upon our own hills and valleys. Surely we, should shoAV our patriotism more by deeds than by words, and here is our opportunity. May I suggest, too—with all gentleness—that more real beneliu might be Avrought in the commuxuty by using colonial goods than by inveighing against social and other evils from the public, platform? I merely throw this out as a hint to my eloquent sisters, and would I'f e - “ space permitted it, to Aid a word as to crime-for it is a crime-of buying onlyMhe. cheapest ready-made goods to fie nan lithe market. , , If wo left the mills imbued with a new respect for colonial industrial resources,' the feeling Avas somewhat heightened y a visit to the Clothing Factoiy in Cashel Street. Here, in the old Metropolitan Hotel, noAV metamorphosed into a huge workshop, hundreds of yards of cloth are daily being made into garments of various descriptions. Men’s and boys clot-lung, ladies’ coat and skirt costumes, jackets, cloaks, waterproof Avraps, children s coats and frocks are made in large quantities for the retail shops. . Passing on to the original factory in the same street, now. the Avholesale warehouse, I Avas afforded ample opportunity of examining the finished costumes in the ishoAvroom. And smart, veritable tailormades they were, lined Avith silk, and bearing the cachet of good style in cut, and appropriate braiding: These coats and skirts are already famous for the excellence of their fit, and have . long since found their way into the Avardrobes of the bestdressed women.

Some handsome three-quarter sacque coats, of splendid quality, of covert cloth, compared Avell with the imported article, and Avas even superior in neatness of finish. As to the quality of the material, the Kaiapoi cloth Avas infinitely the better of the . two. Very seductiA'e were the charms of some of the cape-cloths, thick, ■soft, and Avarm enough even for Siberia) AA-hile their beauty was enhanced by the subdued colouring of the check pattern of the inside, Avhich does away with the need for a lining. Downstairs the display Avas even more fascinating—ladies’ travelling rugs' of delicate hues and softest finish. It Avas little wonder that one of our party fell an immediate victim to a lovely turquoise blue, with, a large but dainty check design running through it, Avhile a second laxly cast longing eyesi on another Avarm. rich .crim--, son, the; beau • ideal. of a shawl rug for a cold, day in a railway train. Avas, too) a dark red rug of thicker kind, Avhich we regarded. Avith special interest, for Avas it not the Ranfurly rug, since the Governor himself Avas pleased to select one of similar pattern, for his own use, when he recently paid a visit to the mills at Kaiapoi? Ladies’ shawls, dainty and fleecy, cotblankets of finest wool, bound with oink ribbon, combination underwear of all kinds, all these were, shown to us, and we departed, fully determined to prove our patriotism and loyalty to our little island home by dressing henceforward in colonial goods only, and preferably in those made in the Kaiapoi Woollen Mills.