KLONDYKE.

Lyttelton Times, Volume C, Issue 11702, 5 October 1898, Page 6

KLONDYKE.

EXPERIENCES OP A CANTERBURY MAN. THE RIVER ROAD. Writing from Walsh Creek on Sunday, July 10, Mr William Dixon, of South Canterbury, continues his interesting series of letters describing the journey to Klondyke : There is. nothing simple about writing letters when one is lying down flat in a tent with no table or chair, and with a cloud of flies buzzing around one’s head. I have not yet got into the way of feeling at home with a net round my face and head, but as the flies are as troublesome as the mosquitoes,. and as both are unbearable, one must,put up with,some inconvenience. Unfortunately, I find myself a good subject for their operations. I have with me now as a partner Mr T. Hawkins, of Patea. and coming from the same colony, we have, naturally, many things in common. We are so far enjoying uur trip immensely, notwithstanding the few drawbacks. We came prepared for the very worst, and as yet do not find it as bad as it was painted. In my last letter I think I took you with us as far as Tagish Post. Well, on Monday, July 4, we pitched our boat, which was leaking a little, and made a fairly good job of it. I had a conversation with Captain Strickland here, and he informed me that since March 1 last he had registered 7000 boats, and be “ guessed ” about 21,000 people had gone through, but he could not say to 1000 or so, as the books were not made up. The number on our boat is 14,135, and the name we have given her is Eangatira. We have “spotted” several Australians from the names on their boats. We left-Tagish Post- on Tuesday, July 5, and had a good wind three parts of the way across Marsh Lake, after which we browed. until .we reached the Louis River. We went twenty-five' miles in the afternoon. Mr Hawkins shot one duck here, which we fished up after considerable trouble. Wo get some well flavoured wild strawberries in a little cove on Marsh Lake. They were small, but very good. A MONOTONOUS VOYAGE.

On Wednesday we rowed most of the day, except when we rested and allowed the boat to drift down with the current. The distance covered was about thirty miles. We arrived at'the White Horse Eapids Police Post, about eight o’clock in the evening. On Thursday we left the White Horse Post, after bargaining with a pilot to take the Eangatira through the canyon and-White Horse Eapids. Wo covered the boat over with canvas at the bow, and nailed it down with tacks, but the precaution was hardly needed. The canyon is about twenty-four feet wide, with walls of solid rock rising 160 ft to 200 ft perpendicularly. After the canyon is passed, the water continues very rapid for a mile or so. Then come the White Horse Eapids. The boat goes through so quickly that there is no time to feel any sensation. Just at the end of the rapids the passage is about sixteen feet wide, b.etween.two huge rocks just showing above the water. This is the most dangerous part of the voyage, and is responsible for; many accidents. You have had stories enough about the socalled pilots bn the rivers, but the police authorities have done away with all dispute now, by taking away the licenses of men who have had a boat wrecked in their charge. We did not trouble the train lines which run round the rapids. To have sent our goods by tram and our boat by water would have trebled the cost, for the trams will not take large boats. I have seen sensational accounts of the passage through the White Horse Eapids, but our boat mast have had a particularly quiet, day, for it was only at the narrows that there was any trouble. ■ It is now just a, week since we left Lake Bennett, and. really journey has been comparatively monotonous. On this Thursday evening we came to Lake Laharge, and pulled gently ashore. The air was very fresh, and there was a light breeze and the lake was fairly calm. So on the edge of the lake we lit our fire and had supper, a sumptuous meal, for Mr Hawkins had shot two fat ducks. HOW WE LIVE.

Occasionally we have varied the monotony of the day’s journey by fishing or shooting, and thus have been able to save our stocks of beans and bacon. , As you may imagine, there is not much human life in this land, but here and there along the banks are Indian encampments, large and small. We did not trouble to investigate the manner of life in these, for a glance was sufficient to show squalor and dirt in every quarter. The largest encampment we have seen so far was just before we came into Lake Labarge. The Indians in it seemed to ; possess a good deal of property of one kind and another, and there were many of their little bark canoes on the bank. 'Phis night, after supper, we found the wind to be favourable, so we hoisted our sail and set out across the lake. Soon, however, the wind dropped, and then we had many weary hours at the oars. The. night passed at length, and by nine o’clock we were safely at* the Labarge Post. Here we breakfasted and slept, and in the afternoon were once more ready for the river. At six o’clock we were again in the boat, this part of the Louis Eiver being named-, the Sixty-mile Eiver. For three hours then we sailed, and at nine o’clock camped' in a little wooded nook, well sheltered and warm. Once more we had fresh fish for supper, and grateful we were for it. We had had rather a tiresome experience during those last three hours; for the stream was swift and the.hed not very free from rocks. -Mr Hawkins, sat in the bow, a Mr Stewart, who was with ns, steered (for he knew the fiver), and I had the oars out to give a hand if need be. There was no occasion to pull, but we'had all to be constantly on the watch. Once, indeed, when we were giving a rock a wide berth we were caught in the backlash and flung broadside on to the bank. Happily the mud was soft, and we were off again in a moment. I sprained my wrist, at this place, for the current .was a cross one and very strong.

A TRAGEDY OF THE TRAIL. Thus, on Saturday, July 9, we found ourselves still on the Louis Elver, and still pushing on hard towards our goal. At midday we reached the Hootalinqua Elver, which is big enough to be marked on the maps. We reported ourselves at the Post; that is here, and sat as guests at the usual beans and bacon feast. In an hour we were afloat again, now on the Forty-mile River.. We passed Casair Bay, , where a little camp of diggers are saving the fine gold that is to be found on the shore. Thus we arrived at the Big Salmon, where we came face to face with one of the many tragedies of the trail. ’ The body of a man was floating in the stream, and was taken' ashore. There Was but ’ one mark about him that could help to identify him, and that was a small silver badge bearing the initials J.V.C.C. He will bo buried in a nameless grave, though in the stream of humanity that passes week by week perhaps one other may be a member of the J.V.C.C. Here we camped, and to-day we are resting. It is Sunday, and it seems fitting that on this day: we should be able to stroll quietly along the river-banks and think of other lands. The grass is short and soft, and there are bright patches of many-coloured flowers. To-morrow the river will receive us again.