GARDENING NOTES.
Boses in the Garden. Over archways and pergolas, the beautiful dark velvety blooms of ‘ ‘Black Boy ’ ’ hang in wonderful pro
fusion, followed by lovely pips which
last throughout the winter. Nearby, v lovely scented blooms of “cloth of J r gold” are to be found, and that beauti- ' ful rose 4 ‘cupid ’ ’ its large single flow ers of a soft salmon shade, with the buds beautifully pointed. Lemon pillar, gives much satisfaction with its perfectly shaped blooms. In the borders spot silk is profuse with its highly coloured blooms, surrounded with nice glossy foliage, while unsurpassed for brilliancy of colouring are the Austrian briars. A splash of wonderful red marks the place where "K of K, ” Bed Letter Bay, hawlmark crimson, and Hadley grow, the latter, perfect in shape and with the true old world scent of the red rose. “Mrs Herbert Stevens ’' is laden with a mass of purest white, while the pretty single roses noticeable include “Daintyßess, ’ ’ “Irish Fireflame,” and "Irish Ele-
gance.' Still a favourite is that profuse flowering climber “Stella Grey, ” its dainty sprays of lovely little yellow, orange centred flowers create a perfect picture. Emma Wright is always early, and ever welcome are the lovely deep orange blooms surrounded with deep glossy green foliage. Yellow roses are always favourites but few there are with really good constitutions, and the blooms are not so freely produced as one would desire. Many other varieties will shortly be giving freely of lovely blooms. Routine Work in the Borders. Planting time is still wiiti us, although it is drier than one would wish and the plants must be watered until thoroughly established. All vacant spaces should now be filled with hardy or half hardy annuals if the garden is to be gay during the summer and autumn months. Spent calendulas, linaria, and stocks may be discarded to make room for other plants. Likewise bulbs may be lifted, and clumps of aubrieta lifted bodily and removed to the reserve garden and kept watered for a while. Beds of primroses may be treated in like manner. Annuals such as lobelia, nemesia, and viscaria, or ageratum may ( be dotted about among anemones and ranunculi. Gladiolo corns may be planted among clumps of oriental poppies, or a few leaves may be pulled away and plants of antirrhinum, French tree marigolds, Guinea gold, etc. planted, as long as manure is used in the holes, this will be found to be quite satisfactory. Prepare beds for bearded irises, good drainage and lime being essential. Sow anemone and ranunculi for spring blooms. Sow freesia seed for
early flowering purposes. Strike pansies and violas keeping them shaded and well watered. Sow wallflowers, sweet williams, and Canterbury bells for next year's blooming. Look over the rock garden, and All any available flowerless plots with suitable low growing annuals such as ursunia, portulaca, tom thumb 'tirrhinums, lobelia, or dwarf ageratum. Traindn the long growths or rambler roses. Keep the hoe steadily going. 'Pluck all spent blooms from the borders. Tie up carnations neatly and securely. The Vegetable Garden. Weeding, thinning, and hoeing are ever constant jobs among the vegetables at this season.
Reserve space in the garden for the valuable winter greens. Often the removal of the first early potatoes give the desired space. Stake the tomatoes early to avoid damaging the roots, and keep all side growths removed. Bn ans and peas are growing freely and should be supplemented with more sowings.
Sow marrow, fat peas and karicot beans for winter use.
Sow maize, sweet corn, celery, and leek seed. Complete plantings of main crop potatoes. Rough garden space may be utilised in the growing of pumpkins and marrows providing much useful food for the winter months. Plant artichokes, yams, and kumeras. Make further sowings of root crops. Sow lettuce in semi-shade where it is to remain.
Sow savoy cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, and late heading cauliflowers. Plant pickling cabbage, and drumhead varieties for table use.
Keep the ground loosened among the raspberries. Do not let strawberries suffer from lack of moisture if large berries are wanted-
Liclien and. Pruit Trees. In low-lying positions, especially where there is much clay in the soil, the extra moisture nearly always present in the atmosphere favours the growth of such parasites as moss and lichen on fruit trees generally. It is hardly necessary to add that they seriously affect the health of the trees overrun by them. Apples and pears suffer particularly. The healthiest, trees are those with good clean stems and main branches, those overrun and their brogthing organs clogged by moss stunted in growth and of comparafiveand lichen being the first to become ly little service-. In some few instances removing the principal cause, that is, quickly foliutved by the disappearance of the parasites, and one of the first remedies should, therefore, be an examination of the drains. If these are badly clogged by the tree roots or other obstacles, either clean out the old drains or form fresh ones. In orchards the drains ought to be disposed midway between the rows of standard trees; and, as a rule not less than three, feet deep, there being such a thing as draining surface water away too rapidly.
There are several known remedies tor removing moss and lichen temporarily, this including scraping and scrubbing with brire and lime wash. Scrubbing is a far too tedious operation beyond what might be done in that way to the clear trunks of standard trees. Newly staked lime in a fine state, shaken through a course bag or otherwise dusted or distributed among the branch-
cs when these are in a moist state, will do much towards killing moss and lichen, but, all things considered, it is a less satisfactory remedy than thoroughly coating them with lime wash. Add sufficient caustic lime to a tub of water to give this the consistency and colour of milk, pass it through a fine sieve, and apply with an old syringe while still hot. Eveiy crack and crevice that can be got at should be thoroughly searched out with the syringe, and this will destroy a good many insect pests, as well as the moss and lichen.
Primula Wanda. A few clumps of primula wanda provide a wonderful display of flowers in early spring. Its earliness and pretty habit of growth make it a valuable addition to the rock garden. Not only is it of service there, but it will grow in almost any part of the garden, especially on a cold and partly shaded border. It may be relied on to bloom practically for three months, and its colour is a rich wine purple which gains for it, plenty of admirers. Wanda is a primula that needs no fuss, it has no peculiarities, and can be grown in most gardens where it can be planted in loamy soil enriched a little with old manure. It is one of the hardiest of the family and severe winters do not affect it, moreover, after it has finished blooming one may quickly work up a stock by dividing the roots, the least bit
making a nice sized slump by autumn. Vanda is a colour all its own in spring, and should be grown by those who may not have tried it. Another delightful method of using this early little subject is by utilising suitable low pans, placing several clumps therein according to size. These when in bloom, with pieces of moss covering any bare soil there may be are lovely for bringing indoors to give cheer. Old gramophone records warmed, and pressed into shape are ideal for the purpose, and also make a gift that is much appreciated in the sick room, and more lasting than a posy of cut flowers. For this purpose, have the soil specially nice mixing in plenty of leaf mould sitting the plants in the dishes when autumn rains begis to fall.
Red-hot Pokers. Met with in all parts of the country, and known under the different names of Kniphofias, tritonias, torch lilies, and to the man in the street, as red hot pokers, these showy hardy perennials are general favourites. everywhere. Most of the species are of stately 'growth. Some of them bloom in late spring, some in early summer, but it is perhaps, in their capacity as monitors of the waning autumn, when their bold spikes of orange and scarlet and crimson and yellow light up the garden that we appreciate them best of all. The culture of red hot pokers is very simple, as they will thrive in any good garden soil provided it is drained, and loves a sunny position. Planting, as a general rule, is best done in late autumn, and in removing them it is advisable to dig out a place for the roots two feet or so deep into which should be put a compost made up of loam, leafmould and old manure. Autumn is a convenient time for dividing the root;when flowering is over. Another way of propagating them is from root suckers taken from the plants in spring. A third method is by sowing seed in pans of light soil, and with this there is the delightful uncertainty of raising some novelty.
These plants should be largely used by those whose time or strength is limited as they require little attention when established. If it can be managed they benefit largely from a mulch of old manure spread over the roots in spring and by occasional supplies of liquid manure as the blooming season approaches. A wild part of the garden may be given over to them with success.
Kalmia Latifolla. One of the many joys of November is the flowering of kalmia latifolia. Following the azaleas and the greater number of Rhododendrons, and allied to them as a member, of the great family of ericaceae, it is a complete flower feast in itself. The compact, bushy growth and polished foliage is good to see at all times of the year, but November brings its triumph of beauty, with its clusters of lovely blooms of tenderest pink shading to a deeper tone, and its rosy buds and tufts of freshest green.
Where the conditions of the garden are favourable, no flowering shrub is more desirable. Damp peaty soil -is what is most enjoys. Thought it flowers well as a low bush a few feet high, it is seen at its best when older, for it mav grow to a height of ton feet and obtain as wide a diameter and still retain its well filled and well dressed appearance.
It is a native of the North Eastern States of America, where it is commonIv known as mountain laurel. In these .native haunts it flourishes amazingly in such spots where its head is in the sun and its roots in the wet. Yet it has been flowered well on a sloping bank, planted in a specially prepared bed of ! peaty soil, with nearby watering facilities for dry weather. It is one of the best of flowers for cutting, lasting long in water, and is also prized for using in the make up of bridal boc|nets, sprays, posies, etc.
Treatment of Aubrietias. Most plants have now finished bloom-
ing and should be cut back to within two inches of the ground. This may sound somewhat drastic, but the plants will do well after it, often blooming again during summer. Tn this way too, lire partly bare, unsightly appearance of the plants is much diminished. If it is desired to increase the plants, take up a root which has been cut back la i March, divide it carefully, and place the pieces in the nursery garden, transplanting them into their permanent position in May.
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Bibliographic details
Horowhenua Chronicle, 24 November 1937, Page 3
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1,958GARDENING NOTES. Horowhenua Chronicle, 24 November 1937, Page 3
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