Everest’s Slopes

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume XI, Issue 238, 12 October 1921, Page 5

Everest’s Slopes

STORY OF THE GREAT CLIMB.

THE JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY. ANIMALS THAT DO NOT FEAR MAN. (From Col. Howard-Bury, to London “Times.”) Tingri Dzong (by, runner to Phari), July 16. On June 23 Mr. Mallory and Mr. , Bullock, with 18 coolies and four yaks, . left Tingri to reconnoitre the easiest

methods of approaching Mount Everest from the north-west. The maps showing the country to the north of tho mountain are quite useless, as we found in our search for Kharta. It is impossible to put any trust in them. From Tingri the mountain top can be seen, appearing over intervening lower grassy ridges. There is no mistaking which is Everest, as it stands out all by itself, and looks far higher than any of the other peaks. The chief obstacles to progress are the great glacier streams intervening, and at this time of the year quite unfordable. There is, however, an occasional rickety bridge, only too often found to have been washed away and not to be rebuilt till the following winter, when the waters are low. The first march from Tingri towards Everest led to- such a bridge over the Kyetrak glacier, a stream flowing down from the great Khombu glacier, some 12 miles long, and fed by numerous subsidiary smaller glaciers. From the beautiful snowy peak of Chorabsang and great 25,000 ft. and 26,000 ft. peaks, for which, strange to say, the Tibetans have no local names, the next day’s march was over grassy

rounded hills to Zamhu. whence a good view was obtained looking up Rongbuk Valley, which led right to the foot of great precipices coming down from the north-western face of Everest. IN THE HOLY VALLEY. All the way to the Rongbuk glacier a large glacier stream ffowed down this valley but there was a fragile bridge at the monastery of Ch hobo. Over this bridge all loads had to be carried by hand, while tho pack animals wore swum across tho river. The path now led up the wild, strangely holy valley of Rongbuk to the monastery of the same name, which stands at a height of

16,500 ft. It is curiouc how often the proximity of ai great mountain or some wonderfully impressive piece of scenery causes the neighbouring area to be looked upon as holy, sacred ground. So here in this valley live between 300 and 400 hermits and nuns, in solitary colls or in the caves dotted about under the great cliffs that bound in the vallev. Here no news from the outer world ever penetrates. The hermits and nuns live a life of the greatest seclusion under the shadow of the giant precipices of Everest, and can contemplate the marvellous beauties of Nature in peace and solitude. All the wild animals and birds in this valley are extraordinarily tamo. With my own eyes I watched the wild | sheep, the burkel, coming down to the cells and being fed by the hermits every morning not a hundred yards from the camp. I walked up to witljin 20 yards of another flock of these wiki sheep without their paying me the slightest attention. Rock pigeons would come and take food out of our hands. It was tho same with all tho other wild birds. They showed no signs of fear of human beings. In such a valley as this no shooting, of course, could bo allowed; besides, there would bo no sport at all in it. In all these parts tho inhabitants know Everest by tho name of Chomolungma, tho goddess Mother of tho country. This apparently is tho proper Tibetan name for the mountain. After a day or two spent in reconnaissance, the Alpine climbers found a pleasant spot for a higher camp some seven miles farther up tho valley, on a sunny shelf high above tho left bank of the Rongbuk glacier. It

commanded magnificent views of Everest. which towered above them at the head of the valley. CAMPING AT 18,000 FEET. Here they established camp at a height of 18,000 ft. for tho combined ; purposes of training the coolies in j snow and ice work and of seeing who- | ther there were any possible methods whereby they might get round* the ter riblo precipices which descended an almost sheer 10,000 ft, straight down to Rongbuk glacier. To the northwest and west extended great ridges, and again to the north, but whether it would be possible to get on to these ridges, which are of the steepest, and come down in great cliffs to Rongbuk glacier, is uncertain. i Even supposing the ridge summits ' at 25,000 ft to 26,000 ft were gained, there yet remains some of the most difficult rock climbing at still greater heights before the summit could be attained. Hard rock climbing at great heights is practically an impossibility; it demands too much from tho human frame. In highly rarified air the extra exertion demanded is impossible. I Till July 7th the weather was most j favourable for reconnaissance. Tho mornings were clear till about 10. then again in the evenings about sunset the peaks stood out wonderfully clear and sharp-cut. Tho last rays of tho setting sun lingered for many minutes on the topmost cliffs of the highest mountain in the world, after the other peaks had all turned grey and cold. I A FINE PIECE OF WORK. I During this period Mr. Mallory and Mr. Bullock were able to do some most useful work in training coolies, explor- 1 ing the neighbourhood glaciers, and ■ ■ climbing the surrounding peaks. | On July sth. they succeeded in climb-1 ing a peak of over 23,000 feet, just ' above the camp. Starting at 4.15 a.m. they reached the summit at 2.45 p.m? The coolies who accompanied them showed signs of ’distress and were unable to reach the summit. The whole party, however, got back to camp at 7.15 p.m. It was a fine piece of hard-work. Since July 7th. the rainy season has been upon us. We have had frequent

hail and rain showers, with snow at the , upper camps. Visibility is consequently . poor and reconnaissance work hindered. However, now and then there are bright intervals, in which useful work can be done. By the end of tho month the north-western approaches to Everest ought to be sufficiently explored. August will be'devoted to the eastern and north-eastern faces of the mountain, which have more ice and snow on them than the north-western side. It is possible that there may be a b:?. pass which will lead from Rongbuk glacier over the intervening ridge or ridges into th© valley of the Kharta Tsangpo, but it is quite impossible to get any accurate information out of the Tibetans. Towards th© end of July the base camp is being moved round to near Kharta, which is a collection of villages in the Arun valley, near to the place where the Kharta Tsangpo, th© largest glacier stream I have yet met, joins the Arun river. Other parties meanwhile have been busy each on its own particular “show.” By now the surveyors have mapped over 6.500 square miles of new country. Details of their activities, however, must be reserved for the next letter.