FASHIONS.

Hawke's Bay Herald, Volume XX, Issue 3905, 23 April 1877, Page 2

FASHIONS.

(From the " Queen.") Cuffs and collars are being ornamented Avith strings of flat mother-of-pearl buttons, the same (but smaller) as those noAV employed forpfcreton jackets, under-vests, and round pockets. Breton Avork is a perfect mania. It is executed on cloth, velvet, and ecru canvas cloth. . It is a kind of herring-bone stitch, and very easy ; all its beauty consists in the selection of the silks. As many as four and five jackets are worn, by the rich peasantry one over the other ; the top one is the shortest. As this fashion AA'ould not suit in Paris, the succession of jackets is simulated by \ strips of cloth being placed on one only, but so as to appear four or five of different lengths. Some of this fashionable Breton Avork is so closely stitched as to haA'e the aspect of incrustations on cloth. The Beatrice glove is at present in great demand. Unlike every other kid glove, it never cracks nor splits, and retains its gloss until literally Avorn out by friction, not by being continually put on. The manufacturer and Bertin are synonymous. These gloves OAve their pleasant name to the patronage of the Princess of England of that name. Initials and cornets are AA-orked to order on the AA'rist ; but the universal success of the Bertin skins is to be attributed to their quality, consequently to a faultless and comfortable fit. The light shades are delicate and novel. Felt bonnets to match the dress are not so fashionable as they Avere three months since ; faille bonnets of the shade of the dress are selected in preference. Bonnet strings take tAvo forms : one called the "gourmette " or curb is composed of very narroAv ribbon and tied at the side, and the other is when the strings are fringed out all round. In the latter case they are AA'ide and made of faille and not of ribbon. The ravelled out edge gives a soft, feathery effect, eminently becoming. The coronet or diadem beneath the brim is often composed of ruches of soft floss silk, although the narrow gauze ruche edged AA'ith dcru lace, and Avorn round the face, is by no means abandoned. Satin, thick silk, and damask surah, are the popular materials cA r en among the young ladies ; but hoAvever rich in texture these fabrics may be, I must confess that tlie present fashions are cruel iirventions to all AA'ho are not the happy possessors of a faultless figure, and of these the number is infinitesimally small. The dresses fit closely, the skirts are too narroAv for comfort, the bodices are unscrupidously loav, and of sleeves tliere are none, so that no one is left in doubt even of the anatomy of the body. Flesh is either starved away, or suppressed in some mysterious manner.

How few women are modelled so as to admit of such displays, and, if they were, how mistaken is the taste that dictates them ; the milliner's art is scarcely wanted in these days ! And these robes collantes, as tliey are termed in France, fire wdrii by middle-aged matrons as well as young ladies at the Elysee ball ; indeed, some few debutantes wore shortish dresses, infant or baby bodices, and no trains ; their dresses there were a tendency to revive the classic style of hairdressing, wliich is becoming to high-bred types of profiles and throats." Among the articles de Paris noticed since the commencement of this year are necklets of velvet ribbon on which porcelain flowers are studded, neither are the latter light or small. Large white china roses encircle the neck, and a central rose for the throat is larger still. Although made of porcelain, the flowers are most delicate, and in many instances look like enamel. A large accessory for the cliatelains is a scent-pitcher. The most fashionable are made of crystal, and ricldy mounted with green, yellow, or red gold ; some with silver and enamel ; otliers with fine pure steel, in the mediaeval style, These ornaments artery conspicuous ; the models are reproductions of works of art in the different museums and collections. The handles are real, and, unlike most scent bottles, are literally hung from the waist— a fashion which relieves their owner from holding them continually. Any invention which can be adopted for adornment, and whicli at the same time does j away with the necessity of getting to one's pocket, is thankfully received in this age of skintight clothing. With scent pitchers has also appeared for the waist a loose girdle called " ceuiture a la .Mardchale." It is a twist of silver cords, sometimes a plait. A hook for the watch is riveted near the join, and from the two ends hang with a large silver tassel those small articles which are in constant use, such as pencil, thimble, scissors, &c. The new ball and evening shoes should be chronicled ; they are always made to matcbthe dress in colom-, are cut very low, have a small ribbon bow on the foot, and two ribbons or sandals on the instep, which are simply tied securely. If the dress is of two colours, blue and pink for example, the shoe should be blue, and the stocking pink. For house wear, very pretty mules or slippers are now made of both Indian silk and velvet, the latter brilliantly embroidered with silks and gold.. The heels of these mules are not high, and there is a strip of either silk- or velvet across the instep. The Louis XV. shoes for evening wear are now made of seal brown velvet ; the toes are pointed, and there are revers of pearl grey satin turned back on the front.