Maritime Intelligence.

Hawke's Bay Herald, Volume 11, Issue 862, 30 July 1867, Page 2

Maritime Intelligence.

VOYAGE OF THE MATAtTRA TO

PANAMA. A passenger for England, by the Mataura, last trip, has kindly placed at our disposal the journal of the voyage between Wellington and Panama, which, as likely to interest our readers, we append in full: — May 8, 1867.— At 4 p.m. I went on board the Airedale, and in about an hour she steamed alongside the Mataura, with passengers and luggage. The Mataura was coaling alongside the Scottish Chief, a vessel recently arrived from England with coal for the Panama Company. About 7 p.m. we went down to dinner 5 everything was cold, having been ready some hours before ; the waiters did not appear to know their duty, and the attendance was bad. The cabins on one (starboard) side of the ship, are reserved for Australian passengers, and those on the other side for New Zealand. It is said to be customary to give passengers priority of choice according to the date of their ticket, but I saw nothing of the kind. It appeared to me first come first served ; but as we were not crowded it may not have been considered necessary to be particular. '■ About 8 we cast off from the coal vessel, and steamed ahead, a strong N.W. wind blowing — the gusts being exceedingly heavy. On opening the lighthouse two blue lights were burned. Passed a vessel at anchor inside the heads. Immediately we got well outside, the pilot left us in his whaleboat ; the moon giving a moderate light enabled us to watch the returning boat for a short time. This was about 10 p.m., and we now began our voyage : by the sailors the voyage is said to begin v when the pilot leaves the ship. May 9.— -Arose about 8 a.m. and went on deck. High sea, wind steady all right, square sails set, ship labouring a good deal — seems to want buoyancy. She is very deep, having about 1,300 tons of coal on board. Went down to breakfast; everything good and satisfactory but the bread. Began to feel queer and could not go. down to lunch. We were all amazed to see a quantity of thistle seed or down carried along by the wind from time to time ; tried to catch some of it, in order to ascertain if the seed was attached, but owing to the strength of the wind could not succeed. We have about 20 passengers in the saloon, from _ Melbourne, Sydney, and Canterbury principally. Sitting on deck is not particularly comfortable, as the accommodation in tnat way is not as good as it might be. Some people have folding chairs with them — rather a sensible thing. The deck is flush fore-and-aft, giving plenty of walking room. This afternoon the wind chopped round suddenly, the sea got up rapidly, the barometer fell, and there was every appearance- of bad weather ; a heavy squall came on. In about an hour the wind lulled, and sail was again hoisted. The night was clear and starlight. May 9. — This day is also called the 9th ; as, on our arrival at Panama we should have gained a day, it is the custom to take it at the commencement of the voyage. 8 a.m.—- Rain and gloom. Wind light, and a smoother sea than we have yet

had. About 10 the sun showed: Ms influ- 1 ence, and the clouds began to disperse. This afternoon, the wind increased, and we had several heavy Squalls. I have not felt up to the mark at all to-day. Shipped a good deal of water cm deck. Hay 10.— Passed a bad night. Ship rolling very much, and shipping a good deal of water; much" of it came below into the saloon, owing to the skylights, or rather the covering boards, lifting ; some little dripped into the berths through the deck, and I heard a few of the passengers complaining of wet sheets. The ship ought to have been caulked in Sydney, but was not, owing to the time lost last voyage. To-day the skylights are covered over with canvas coverings made to fit them. Nine sheep, kept forward, . were, thrown overboard to-day; they died from the effects of the salt water coming over them. , A barrel got adrift, knocked over one of the cook's mates, and broke his leg above the knee. I. was very sick last night, and kept my bed most of to-day. In the afternoon I went on deck ; found it cold, wet, and uncomfortable. . Wind northerly and creeping round to the west, with a rising glass. In the evening the sea became much calmer, and the ship steadier. May 11.-r-Passed a^better night. Went on deck after breakfast. Square sails set;; wind aft ; sky clear, with a bright sun. 1 p.m. — Wind increased, sky overcast ; an inky cloud followed us up quickly, and a squall burst upon us, attended with thunder and rain ; it was but of short duration; the sun came out again and a magnificent arch appeared in the sky. Towards evening the giass fell, and the sky assumed a threatening appearance. The ship is said to be drawing 22 feet, and the officers consider she has behaved very well. Her decks are not quite so tight as they ought to be, and some of the passengers have complained of wet sheets, but fortunately no water has come into my berth. The saloon- is very comfortable, and handsomely decorated; the cabins are about 9ft. x 6|ft.— such as > I have seen ; they are fitted with two in some, and in others four berths. The engines were stopped three hours to-day, to grease and screw up. May 12,—Our first Sunday on board. We have had a quiet night, and have now a lovely morning. 10 a.m.— -Church of England service conducted by the Rev. Mr. Bird. 2 p.m.— Heavy squall and storm of hail ; the sky was totally obscured while it passed over us, which it did in a few minutes ; again a beautiful rainbow ; the sun shone out, and the dark clouds rolled away to leeward. All square sails hoisted ; fine breeze. Prayers at 8 p.m. Amputated the leg of the poor man who was injured on Friday. There are three medical men among the passengers, and the ship carries a surgeon. May 13. — This morning, about 3 a.m., ; I was roused out of sleep by hearing signs of bad weather; a sudden squall had come on, and they were taking in sail. As usual, it soon passed over, and I went to sleep again. The cook's mate died this, morning ; the operation had been too severe for him ; it was his only chance, however. We all assembled to witness the burial. The engines were stopped, and the stokers, firemen and crew attended at the ceremony. Mr. Bird read the usual prayers, and the shot- weighted body was launched into the deep. It was very impressive, and cast a temporary shadow upon all on board, but it was soon forgotten. We have had pleasant weather, with a light and favorable breeze.

May 14.—^-A beautiful morning — all sail set, the calmest day we have yet had. We are beginning to settle down to the ordinary life on board ship, and the passengers are becoming more familiar and communicative. At 630 a.m. a steward bi'ings us a cup of coffee, or tea, if preferred ; at B'3o a bell rings, giving warning to prepare for breakfast ? at 9 we sit down to a substantial meal ; at 12*30 the bell rings for lunch; at 330 the dinner bell ring's out, and again at 4, when we again sit down to a well-covered table — soups, joints, fowls, entries, &c. ; second course, pies, tarts, puddings, &c, wound up by cheese and pickled beet ; then comes dessert—apples, oranges, figs, raisins, nuts, dates, jßrench prunes, &c. At t p.m. we have a cup of tea or coffee. Between breakfast and dinner we amuse ourselves the best way we can — talking, reading, and smoking ; there is a smoking-room on deck, close to the stern. On fine days wo play quoits, with rings of rope covered with canvas, and throw on to a board markedoff into squares, upon which figures are^ painted. The captain has a horseracing game, which we borrow sometimes. After tea, card-parties are formed ; then comes a glass of grog; afterwards (if fine) an hour or so on deck, and to bed about 11 or from that to 12. We have a piano on board, which is brought into use occasionally, and now and then Some of our musical passengers oblige us with a few songs. May 15. — In the early morning the sea was quite smooth ; no wind, sails furled. About 10 a.m. a breeze sprang up ahead and continued steady all day. Light showers, games on deck, and the usual card-playing, back-gammon, &c, in the evening. May 16. — Light head wind, freshened towards night. We have an Armenian Jew on board from Palestine on his way home. He dresses in his national costume, and has but a few words of English. We had rather a rich scene to-day, of which he was the hero. He brought a written paper to the captain (which had been drawn up for him by some of the second class passengers), asking for a variety of edibles, and stating that he could not eat the food prepared on board. The captain did not understand, and the Jew could not explain it. At last a gentleman came forward, who was able to speak to him in Spanish and Italian, the Jew using a mixture of both. It turned out that the writer of the document, for a lark, had asked for a lot of tilings not wanted. The Jew's explanation was that since he came on board he had been living on bread and sardines ; he was tired of the . latter, and wanted a change ; he wished the captain to let him have a fowl every other day, which he would kill and prepare himself. His gesticulations and the play of his countenance were very amusing. He got his wish, a fowl was given him, and a number of us went forward to see him kill it, which he did in an artistic manner, examining the knife (his own) both before and after most carefully. The knife must be very sharp, not a notch on the blade, and the bone must not on any account be touched. In the evening he rushed into the saloon with a tin dish held at arms' length with both hands and a face of horror, up to the passenger who had interpreted for him in the morning, and told him in great anger that his fowl was destroyed, pointing to a lump of pork which some evil-disposed person had placed in his dish. The fowl had been very nicely prepared and seasoned, and made ready for his next clay's dinner, and, as it was his Sabbath, he could not on that day remedy the matter had another pullet been given him. The saloon passengers were very indignant, and sympathised with the poor fellow, but it was impossible to avoid laiighing, and the whole affair created considerable amusement. May 17.--Fine day. Enquiry- into the matter of the defiled fowl. The captain had the cooks &c. examined, and it w,as

";j?rpvod that none of the crew had a hand in ; it. The second cabin passengers were then questioned, and it came out that it was done by two or three of them. A Frenchman acknowledged to having taken a part, but" would not say who the others were. They got a lecture read them, and are not likely to interfere in the same manner again. The wind, is easterly today and .blowing cold, though,.the sun is powerful. Talking to Mr.. — —about Am&nci,; describing the city of Chichago, on Lake Michigan— population 24 years ago, 3000, now upwards of 150,000; 12 lines of railway centre in it ; received last year 66,000,000 bushels grain. The same year the produce of the whole of South Australia was 6,000,000. Education : in the State of Massachusetts every parish of 60 : families must support a common school; 200 families, a grammar school. In the Town of Salem (population 30,000) at' a recent census only, one native-born American was found unable to read and write. '■'''■'.' '.. .. ■-.

May 18.— Light breeze, ahead, fine day, smooth sea, About noon the wind increased and hauled round to N.W. Set the fore-aud-aft sails. We are beginning to tire, , one day is so like another, and nothing to interest or amuse. May .19 .-—Sunday. Wind northerly, rough sea. . Text from I. Samuel xx,, 3rd verse — " There is but a step between me and death." Mr. Bird gave us an appropriate discourse. The engines were stopped three hours to-day, owing to a defect in one of the pumps. Noon, wind N.W., blowing stiff ; reefed mainsail. Towards night the wind became more westerly. Got up the square sails; atmosphere damp and muggy. In the morning the wind was cpite chill, but close and warm in the evening. May 20. — Nice westerly breeze, clear weather. Heavy shower of rain this morning. The engines were stopped. 18 hours to-day, some repairs being required. The engine-room was like a blacksmith's forge, the men hard at work making and mending. Fortunately we had a fair wind, which took us along at the rate of 5 or 6 knots. The stoppage threw a gloom over the ship, and caused a considerable amount of reflection. Here we are about 3000 miles from our Port ; what would be the consequence if anything should happen to the engines which could not be repaired at sea, with small sails, and a vessel not calculated for dependence upon them alone ? ! May 21. — Light breeze, N.W., smooth sea ;— -gloom and lain ; nothing visible but the watery waste around Us. The birds, which afforded us some little amusement, have now deserted us. The wind has come aft and we are getting along famously. The passengers are in great spirits today, and betting on the day's rim is going on. May 22. — Fin 4 cheerful day ; the wind has hold all night and continues brisk. I We are now about half way, or rather more. The Mataura on her last voyage to Panama consumed 1,129 tons coals. She has 100 tons ballast on board, and 41 tons of fresh water in iron tanks, as a stand-by in case of the condenser getting out of order, she carries 1300 tons of coals. Her • registered' tonnage, exclusive of engine-room, 1114; carries a crew of 87 persons, all told, including cuddy servants ; consumes 35 to 45 tons of coal per day, according to quality ; engines 450 horse, power. G-ot one of my portmanteaus out of the .baggage room today ; leakage from the deck had soaked into it, and some of my clothes were wet and mildewed. May 23. — Fine warm weather, breeze very light, smooth sea. The after sails are furled, and the fore sails hardly drawing. Our subjects of conversation are very various. ' Some of us began to-day about. the American war.; got on to Mexico, to Prussia, Denmark and Austria, and finished up with the Antipodes (New Zealand). The wind came round to the north and freshened to a stiff breeze during the afternoon. May 24.W Wind nor-west, blowing fresh. Noofc wind northing ; square sails taken in. Light shower of ram yesterday and to-day. We are now within the tropical belt. May 25. — Fine day, clear sky, wind continues in the same quarter. A 10s sweep was got up to-day relative to the time of our arrival at Panama ; every person entering draws a card marked with a given time, as 12, 12-30, 1, T3O, 2, 230, and so on. The lucky number takes the stakes. Cloudy night ; very few stars visible. May 26. — Tropical morning, almost a calm. Service on deck, under the awning, which has now been spread for the first time, our previous services having been held in the saloon. ' Text from John, 17, 3 v, sermon very lengthy. Northerly breeze ; we expected to have got the south-east trades before this, but the wind sticks ahead most pertinaciously. It certainly has the effect of moderating the heat very much, which I have no doubt we should otherwise feel uncomfortably oppressive ; as it is, the nights are pleasantly cool. The ship is very well ventilated ; the partitions separating the cabins from the saloou are on the Venetian blind principle, with perpendicular instead of horizontal bars, and gratings all round the skirtings. Our days roll past without incident ; one is so like another that I have nothing to relate; eating, drinking, sleeping, reading, and smoking, are our chief methods of killing time, and we shall hail with the greatest satisfaction the day which releases us from our present state of durance, though we may only be reimprisoncd in another floating palace. We have, however, the satisfaction of thinking, that before we are again cooped up we shall get a run on shore at Panama and Colon. May 27. — Fine warm day, gentle breeze ahead. In the evening a clear starlit sky. May 28. — Fine, light wind ahead. 4 p .m. The wind has become more easterly ; hoisted the main sail. The boom of oiir mainsail is the largest I have seen; it would make a good mast for a small vessel. 9 p.m., wind steady, clear sky, with a £ew masses of densely black clouds floating in the north and east, having a very singular appearance. Yesterday a few white birds were flying about the ship ; they arc a species of gull, called by the sailors the boatswain bird. May 29.— The wind shifted two or three points to the north during the night, and as it has continued pretty fresh, our days and nights have been reasonably cool. Some flying fish have been playing about the bows to-day. And a large bird (frigate bird) has been sailing round the ship. About 10 a.m. we got the wind from the eastward, and the sails were immediately hoisted. May 30. — The wind continued in the same quarter all night, but varied in force. This morning we have a pleasant breeze ; in the afternoon the sky became quite huzy and squally looking, and the wind quite cold. A good deal of letter-writing is now going on amongst the passengers. Fine night, clear sky. May 31. — Good easterly breeze, sails drawing well. Two whales spouting on the starboard quarter, but they did not come very near us, and went off to the eastward of our course. Very close night, clear and starlight, light variable wind. June 1. — Very oppressive day, scarcely any wind ; in fact, I believe it is calm, but tho motion of the vessel itself produces a light ah- ; very hot night. 'June 2. — Exceeding hot. Service on

deck at 10-30 a.m. ; prayers at, 8" p.m. Everybody lias turned outin his lightest clothing, feeling very languid. Hot close night; gloomy ; ship enveloped in mist, light ram falling; June 3. — Light breeze ahead this morning, but before noon the wind fell, and, the heat became very great. About 9'3o'Cih. we were abreast and about five miles distant from a sterile rock of peculiar formation, called Pela. It did not^appear to have any feathery inhabitants,* as none were visible. A letter was written-Jo-day to the captain and signed by the Saloon passengers ; a subscription was also entered into. The purse and letter are to be presented in the afternoon, as a token of esteem and satisfaction. 5 p.m. — The testimonial was presented after dinner by the Eev. Mr. Bird in a neat speech. We had several short speeches and toasts, and quaffed various bumpers of champagne. Everybody is happy, and the greatest harmony prevails ; out we were glad to get away on deck, for the heat is suffocating. Soon after this a heavy rainfall began and lasted some time ; it cooled the air a little, but very little. Brilliant sheet lightning lit up the southern and eastern sky. June 4. — I went on deck about 8 a.m. Land was in sight on the larboard quarter, and a rocky point ahead called Cape Maria. "We passed this about 10 and opened the G-ulf of Panama, the land gradually receding. We could not observe the land" very closely, owing to the dense clouds hanging over it. Tute misty state of the atmosphere was also unfavorable. The coast Hue appeared iow and partially timbered, becoming more elevated towards the interior, and hedged in by high ranges. We noticed a few albicore in pursuit of flying fish, anda number of sea birds floating about on j>ieces of drift wood. We also saw a brig in full sail, heading for Panama ; she was a considerable distance from us ; before noon her canvas came down, and she lay becalnied. We had a slight shower of rain this afternoon. The wet season here commences in June. We are not going so fast as usual ; the engineers, firemen, &c, are knocked up with the heat; and the coal, now principally at a distance from the engine-room, cannot be got at so readily, and involves more labour. I am writing in a most uncomfortable state of perspiration and headache from the extreme neat. I pity the poor fellows in the engine-room, for I am told the thermometer stands at 180 degrees down there ; I wonder they can stand it at all. In the afternoon we drew in towards the land, which is here of greater altitude. Passed a group of three islands largely covered with a dense foliage reaching to the summits. The soil appeared to be of volcanic formation — probably a clay loam — reminding me of the Auckland red soils. About 5 p.m. we were abreast of the island of Toboga, where the Pacific Company have their works. We observed several vessels lying there. Several islands were noticed ahead of us ; but it rapidly became dark, and we could make no further discoveries, excepting by the flashes of lightning, which was very brilliant. Soon we came in sight of the lights in the city of Panama, and the shipping at anchor ; cast anchor ourselves at 7*30 p.m. A boat came off from the British man-of-war, the Scout, with an officer who brought some late papers. Next we had the agent, Mr. Sealey, and some others, in the steam tender. A revolution has broken out in this country, and all the shops in the town are closed. The general state of health is said to be good. We are to leave this vessel in the steam tender to-morrow, at 6 a.m. The train to Colon goes at 12 noon. I have no time to write more ; and if I had, have little else to say; So closes the first act. Tomorrow we enter lipdn hew scenes.