GARDENING NOTES

Hawera Star, Volume LIV, 4 May 1934, Page 8

GARDENING NOTES

(By “Salvia”).

BROAD BEANS. A few broad beans planted now will come ill earjj- and be very useful. Sow the seeds in soil which has been well dug, but do not manure as the plants run too much to leaf and the blossoms fail to set ir the soil is too rich. Sow in drills four inches deep and placo the seeds six inches apart in the row, if a, single row is sown, or nine inches apart if planted in a double row. The double row is preferable and seeds should not be placed oppositej each other in the rows. In some seasons these plants suffer considerably from “rust” and it is advisable to dust flowers of sulphur along the drills to check. this pest. LETTUCES.

This vegetable is particularly desirable in the spring when, usually, it is scarce and dear to buy. With a little care and attention there should be no dearth of this succulent salad plant if the seeds are planted now. Prepare a. raised bed in a sunny sheltered spot, sow the seeds thinly and just cover with soil, as soon ns the young plants arc large enough to handle they should be thinned to about six inches apart. In August, or as soon as they sho.v signs of hearting, water the soil about the plants with a solution of nitrate of soda, one ounce to a gallon of water. Two good kinds <to sow now are “Webb’s Wonderful” and “Neapolitan.’ 1 " “All the year round’ 5 will also give good results, but not being of tlio tcrba]} Type', is not as popular as tlie two first mentioned. 'RHUBARB. I Attention to this vegetable in tbe I “off” season is necessary to ensure the best results later on. As soon as the tops of the summer variety have dipd down a few of the roots should be lilted and left on the surface to ripen for forcing purposes. .Forced rhubarb is very much appreciated, coming, as it does, when fresh fruit is not available.. A shed or cold frame may be usee for forcing. Place the rhubarb roots close together on a few inches of soil and cover with half barrels, boxes or tubs. Some soil should be loosely scat, tered among the roots as high as tlie crowns. Water only sufficiently to keep the soil moist and, if any fresh stable manure is available, it should be packed down between and around the tubs on the outside. This will keep the roots warm and have tlie effect of bringing the plants awav earlier. ORCHARD ACTIVITIES.

As soon as the crops have been harvested fruit trees should bo sprayed to destroy insect pests and to control fungoid diseases. Oim of the pests for which autumn treatment is advised is the San dose scale. This scale is a most prolific breeder, and seriously affects the trees by constantly draining t-hei sap. The scale is active all the year round, though not so vigorous during the winter as'in the summer season but, as the trees are dormant in winter and are not building up a reserve of food, the San Jose scale does much more harm in proportion at this period than when the trees are in active growth. This is the main reason jvh.y autuinn and early winter treatment is advised. Lime sulphur or red-oil will kill this scale. Lime sulphur should be used at a strength of one gallon to fifteen gallons of water and red oil one part to sixteen gallons of water. It is not necessary to use stronger solutions „if the spraying be thoroughly carried out. Tho whole of the tree must be thoroughly soaked, especially on the underneath side of the branches. Apply when the loaves commence to drop or as soon after as possible. WOOLLY AHPIS.

Th© treatment of this pest in the autumn has come more into favour ana the same argument may be used for autumn treatment as for San Jose scale. The spray must be driven forciblv into rough bark to ensure success and. where there are only a few trees, it is decidedly preferable to rub tilt solution well into the bark of the trunk and main branches with a stiff brush. Red oil—one part to twenty parts of water should be used.

PEACH DIE-BACK AND BLISTER.. Any trees affected with this disease should be treated with an autumn Bordeaux jsprav at a strength of eight pounds of bluestone and six pounds of fresh burnt lime to fifty gallons of water. The bluestone and lime should be dissolved in separate vessels and the solutions poured simultaneously into a third receptacle, which should be made of wood. The ready prepared Bordeaux powder may be used at a strength of one pound to each five gallons of water.

IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. From now until tho end of May is a favourable time to plant Paeonies. There are two classes of these beautiful plants, tho herbaceous and the tree. The herbaceous is the most popular variety, and is very effective when planted bv itself in bold beds. It does best in rich soil in a semi-shaded, sheltered position. Shelter from boisterous winds is especially essential, otherwise the large flowers and foliage are soon spoiled. Once planted the plants should not be disturbed until thev become large enough to require dividing. Where it is desired to have something in flower later than the paeonies it may be provided by planting lilies or gladioli among them. PERENNIALS. The present time is suitable for lifting and dividing hardy perennials. The advantage of doing this work now is that when the plants are lifted and divided into suitable-sized pieces, the soil may be dug, some manure added and the plants re-insertecl, thus they get a good hold of the soil before the winter sets in in earnest. BEGONIAS. These should be lifted as soon as the foliage begins to turn yellow and should lie spread out in a cool, airy frostproof place to allow the stems to tile off and tho. bulbs to dry thoroughly. Those growing in pots should have the water gradually withheld and, as soon as the stems begin to fall oyer, the pots should be laid on their sides until tho bulbs are thoroughly dry, when thev should be shaken free of soil. Begonia bulbs should be stored in diy sand and kept in some place secure front frost and damp until spring, when thev should be placed on the top of damp soil in boxes until they have made some roots and then planted in pots, or outside as soon as danger of frost is past.

LILIUM CANDIDUM. This old-fashioned lily is very comiuon in English gardens .where it is usually to bo seen in large clumps oon(iistsing of dozens of bulbs so closely packed that many are pushed out oi the soil, vet they bloom well every year. This lily is ‘peculiar in the facr lhat. after flowering and when the stem has died down, a tuft of green leaves is sent up which remains green throughout the winter. The best time to move the bulbs is just before or when this tuft is appearing. It likes a well drained’ soil and will grow weli near trees and shrubs where little else will grow. The bulbs should be planted about six inches deep in soil free from animal manure and, once planted, should be left unclisturjbed for yours. The reason why large wellflowered clumps are so rarely seen in this country is probably due to tno fact that the bulbs are lifted too frequently. REMINDERS. Earth up celery, and leeks. Sow lupins or mustard on vacant pieces of ground to dig in later as green manure. Sow broad) beans, /cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, endive, lettuce, onions, peas (early dwarf), spinach and turnips. All the foregoing except broad beans and peas, .should be sown on beds raised a few inches above the general level of the garden, and in as sunny and sheltered position as possible. Prepare the soil where it is proposed to plant roses, shrubs, hedge plants, or fruit trees. Dig the soil two spits deep and mix some well-decayed manure or vegetable rubbish with the bottom spit. Bonedust is an excellent substitute for vegetable manure for fruit trees. Plant strawberry plants one foot apart in rows thirty inches apart. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Plant rooted layers of carnations. Row isweet peas. Lift, divide and replant any perennial plants requiring it. Plant early-flowering gladioli. Plant ldium candidum and paeonies.