UNPRODUCTIVE BUTTER-FAT

Hawera Star, Volume XLVII, 19 June 1928, Page 4

UNPRODUCTIVE BUTTER-FAT

HOW INDUSTRY LOSES MONEY

•SECOND SECJION OF DAIRY REPORT

More Low Test Cows Needed

New Light on Take of Fat in Cheese

Examination And Valuation of Experimental Cheese in London. Tho experimental cheese were exportetT'to London in specially marked crates, the different breeds of cheese being- identified only by code letters and numbers which, as already stated, wtfre regularly changed with each shipment. Advice notes regarding each shipment, together with record sheets :to be filled out in respect to each were sent forward, and 'the following programme of investigation was carried out:— 1. The contents •of each crate were weighed, and figures showing the comparative shrinkage of the three types of cheese* during the voyage to England were made available over the whole season.

Each batch of cheese Was graded cither by iMr. W. Wrigli't or Mr. A. Ross, of 'the New Zealand Department of Agriculture in London, and special remarks given on the subjects of flavour, Lady and texture, colour and finish.

3. Each batch of cheese was viewed by a special 'committee who gave opinions on -the quality and suitability of the cheese for the trade, and gave a 'commercial valuation of the batch as a Whole, or of each crate individually. ‘This part of the work was. at first handled by Messrs. A. C. Raws on and G. Giggs, of the London Provision Exchange, and Air. A. W. Hcvcs. of Messrs. Henry A. Lane and ’Co., Ltd. After about 250 crates had been examined, however, Messrs. Rowson and Giggs considered that, no useful purpose would' be ,served by their continuing the examinations any further, and in any ease found it impossible to continue giving the time to the work. Tor this reason the examination and valuation of tho cheese for the balance of the season was conduct, ed by Air. ITeyes aloue. The thanks of the Federation are duo to these gentlemen for the -• painstaking manner in which they carried out our exacting requirements.

GRADING O'F THE EXPERIMENTAL ■CHEESE IN LONDON.

The first fact which strikes us is the very general lowering of the grade which has occurred during the period of the voyage to England. Whereas in New Zealand, only 9 shipments put of 109 were graded ‘'‘second grade,” the number had swelled to 01 by the time the cheese landed in England. In other words, practically 30 per eont. of the cheese which was passed as ‘‘first grade” in New Zealand was considered ‘‘second grade” in Loudon.

It would thus appear, that, if wc accept 90 points as the standard for “first grade,” our grading officers have been rather generous, and have conceded, perhaps grudgingly, “first grade” to ninny shipments of cheese which hardly deserved that honour. Wo note, however, that not many of the shipments which graded 911 or 92 points or better in New Zealand were seriously attacked in regard to their quality in London. Hence it would seem as though our standard is not yet high enough, and ’that, a minimum of 92 points would more correctly indicate a truly “first grade ” cheese. The facts of this investigation arc enough to justify a further raising of the standard for our export “first grade” cheese, proving, as they do, that a considerable bulk of raw milk cheese classed as “first grade” in New Zealand, is of poor quality and unsatisfactory to our (buyers - upon arrival in London.

It must be admitted that a true and correct grading of cheese when only 11 days old is an extremely difficult matter .and. iu many respects, is akin to the problem of grading milk for cheesemaking by purely physical tests. The grader of cheese or milk finds if practically impossible to ‘detect by taste or smell, the presence, in minute or moderate numbers, of slow-acting bacteria, the ultimate effect of which may be extremely deleterious .and vet the. detection of such bacteria is a matter of the utmost importance when the subsequent h i story of the article, whether cheese or milk, js so intimately connected with its bacterial flofia.

Hence, if our description of “first, grade” is to command universal recognition and confidence, ■we must see to it that we admit to this grade only those cheese of such unquestioned purity of flavour and soundness of body that the possibility of their subsequent deterioration is so remote as to be

In to-day’s issue we publish the second instalment of the Hawera Dairy Laboratory’s report on high and low test milk in relation to comparative values from the cheese manufacturing point of view. In this section the report records the results of observations for shrinkage of the three different breeds of cheese —Jersey, Friesian, and Ayrshire—during the voyage to England. Their realisations on the London market arc noted and some important deductions arc made therefrom. The reports of the London committee of merchants on the con* dition of the cheese, the body, texture and colour, and some interesting comment on the requirements of the trade lead to the conclusion clearly stated in the report that the standard of fat required in New Zealand is too high, and that the return to more reasonable butterfat tests in cheesemaking milk is imperative. After considering the records of the cheese in all phases through the process of manufacture to the time of sale the report makes some recommendations of a revolutionary nature. These recommendations, which are set out in full below, touch upon the need for a greater measure of dependence upon low test cows. Further, it is shown that “New Zealand is losing huge sums by exporting in over-fat cheese enormous quantities of butterfat for which there is no financial return.’’ The text of the second section of the report follows.

negligible. Under present circumstances it appears that this can only be done by still further extending the practice of\pasteurising all milk for and at the same time, raising still higher our standard for “first grade” points. v, Predominating Faults.

■Coming now to a 'closer cousidcration of the 'cheese itself, we observe from the comments made in London that there are a number of predominating faults in our produce. It lias already been emphasised that a special request was made for very full and free comment upon the quality of these investigational cheese, and our wishes have been carried out. Nevertheless, since only about 5 per cent, of the cheese was graded “second” in New Zealand, there is no reason to believe that the experimental cheese was any worse than the great majority of New Zealand cheese graded on a similar scale. Yet we find, 'throughout the three breeds, the Constant comments “texture loose and open.” This must be indeed considered a national fault, and oiie for which an immediate remedy should be found. The problem is not one which falls within the imluedaite scope of the present investiga. tion. but indications are that it is both physical, chemical and bacteriological.

London Grading of The Three Different Breeds of Cheese. For the purposes of this investigation it matters very little whether the general quality of 'the cheese has been found high or low. .Since all have been treated alike, comparisons arcstill passible, and some important results have been secured. FLAVOUR — 1 n the first place the Jersey cheese has shown the best results for flavour, followed by the Friesian and then by the Ayrshire. This, of course, has no relationship Co the fat tests of tlic various milks, but is mentioned be-, cause it confirms the New Zealand grading figures, and is quite in keeping’ with the explanations already given re-, guiding the bacteriological purity of the three milks. BODY AND TEXTURE-

As already stated, a fault constantly found with all three varieties of cheese was the looseness ami openness of body and texture. this being more constantly commented upon iu the case of the two low testing breeds than in the case of the Jersey. Other comments fairly common to the low testing varieties were “body weak and pasty” and at other times “body harsh 'and mealy,” although it must not be supposed that the high testing cheese was immune from remarks of this kind. On the other hand, even in file months of September and 'October, the Jersey cheese was the subject of the comment “body and texture greasy and showing butter sacs.” and this remark, accompanied by “second grade” points, was consistently applied to every b"a ; teli made during the whole of April. The facts of the investigation therefore seem to prove that, iro one variety of cheese has produced a body and texture considered uniformly ideal. 'The low testing varieties have shown a tendency to be weak and brittle, with mealiness and pastiness, while the high testing cheese has shown these faults to « lesser degree. but has added that a greasiness together with the ’occurrence of butter sacs. With special methods of manufacture adapted to the particular class of milk handled, all of these faults could probably be overcome with the exception of the greasinoss caused by (lie unduly high percentage of fat. COLOUR—

This was less often I he subject of deduction in London than in New Zealand, thus indicating the toleration of a somewhat wider range amongst those nearer our markets. All breeds were, subject to a certain amount of tied net ion. (some, of course, owing to the ble'aching effect of over-acidity), but the point seems amply proved that the pure white co''-"jr of the low testing cheese, which was the subject of an almost constant deduction of half a point in grading in New Zealand, was quite well received in England. The yellow colour of it he Jersey cheese Was well tolerated by the London graders, but at times was considered too high, and deductions were made. Variation in Grading With Advance of Season. It is interesting to note that, in the ease of I lie . Friesian 'breed, the best standard of reception in London was

secured 'by the cheese made during the month of September—a month characterised by high yield and high moisture content. This rather explodes the popular doctrine that a high yield can be secured only at the expense of quality. Again on comparing the April performances o'f the two extreme breeds, Friesian and Jersey, we observe that whereas 'the Friesian has maintained first grade in London for the whole month, and moreover contains two ship, mcuts which have actually improved on the voyage Home, the Jersey has not only all deteriorated, but is ail “second, grade”, in .London,. with strong comment against the existence of greasinoss and butter sacs. This is ample proof of the fact th'at autumn chcesemaking with milk of high fat content is a triple mistake, not only on account of the low yields per pound of butter-fat and also the high fat losses in the whey, but also because a product is made which Is unsa'tisfaetorv to the market for which we cater.

The facts of this investigation therefore prove that, if we desire, because of price considerations, to continue making cheese after March, we shall have to introduce a much greater proportion of low testing cows into our chcesemaking herds if the project is to be on its soundest footing economically.

Throughout this section of the work, the faults of the respective batches of cheese, rather than their merits, have been kept rather consistently to the fore, but it i's hoped that this will not lead to erroneous impressions regarding the quality of the article in general. Tu the sections which follow, the commercial valuation given to each batch by the London Committee will be an indication of the extent to which the criticism can ’be held to apply. SHRINKAGE DURING VOYAGE.

Since each crate of cheese was weighed at the time of packing for export in New Zealand, and again upon receipt in London, figures were available for computing the shrinkage of each variety of cheese during that interval of time. The percentage of shrinkage hag been calculated for each shipment on the basis of the total weight of the cheese comprising that batch at export and again upon arrival in Loudon.

.Shrinkages qf iudividaul crates showed wide variations, even in the same shipment, these variations being probably connected with the positions occupied by different crates in the ship’s hold, and the relationship of these positions to temperature and ventilation. Figures as low as 1.5.3 per cent, and as high 'as 4.75 per cent, were obtained for individual crates in the same shipment, 'but, over a whole season involving hundred's of crates of each variety of cheese, such differences in behaviour should tend to occur about equally for all breeds, thus allowing conclusions of value 'to be drawn from the season’s results. As we h'ave already observed, the Jersey cheetec has shown the smallest shrinkage by reason of the fact that initially it contained the smallest percentage of .moisture, Tout, over the whole season, this 'difference has amounted to only 0.37 per cent, less than the Friesian. It is at once obvious -thlat this slight saving in shrinkage can hardly make the slightest impression upon 'the initial advantage of over 13 per cent, extra, yield of Friesian cheese per pound of butter-fat. Likewise despite the disadvantages from which the Ayrshire cheese suffered, and notwithstanding the fact that errors o'f body and texture were against the solecvss'fu 1; (holding! -of moisture, jji'ts initial advantage over the Jersey o'f over 0 per cent, extra yield per pound of ibuttor-fat will hardly bo affected to any serious extent, bv the comparative trififio of O.TL per cent, into re shrinkage.

The facts of this investigation therefore clearly establish the following points:— 3. Provided cheese is made .from normal whole milk and contains the proper content of moisture consistent with its fat percentage, initial moisture content is not an important factor in determining shrinkage. 2. Errors of body ami texture have a considerable ' effect in increasing shrinkage. 3. The., relatively large increase iu yield per pound of butter-fat gained .by manufacturing low testing milk into cheese of nigh moisture content is offset to only an insignificant extent by the slightly higher shrinkage of such cheese.

Commercial Valuation of Clicese in. London.

As already stated, the cheese was inspected in London by a special committee, who iurnislieu detailed remarks upon 11a . our and body and texture, together with opinions on quality and suitability .or the trade. commercial valuations per <wt. were also supplied. It must be emphasised that these figures represented, not the actual moneys returned t>y each batch or each crate, of cheese, because these are influenced by numerous adventitious circumstances; bat were a considered valuation bused solely upon quality, assuming each crate or butji to be fair samples of a line of cheese coming forward in the ordinary way of trade. In this way it was considered that all outside iuhuemes upon price, such as ability of salesman, questions of supply and demand, etc., would be eliminated.

It may i.e stated briefly that the merchants reports bear out in every respect the general comments of the London grading officers of the New Zealand Department of Agriculture concerning tne principal faults or merits of the cheese. They present this additional information, however,’ that they ircquently gave the quality crate oy crate, whereas the grading figures and remarks were applied to each shipment as a whole, and could be' taken as representing the mean or average of varying qualities. The actual prices placed upon each batch or c rate of cheese as a considered valuation by the committee of London merchants are show n in. tabulated form in Lie report. After making some explanatory comment the report proceeds as follows .

During the first period (cheese made iron) September I to October 29) the lowest testing cheese, namely, ihc Friesian, soid in London at the highest average price. Tin’s result is extremely remarkable and important for a number of roasons.

Some Important Deductions. In the first place the period includes the highest yielding portion of the season. .For the majority of October the gross Friesian yield was over three pounds of cheese per pound of butterfat, and averaged 2.915 over the whole period. It is therefore evident that a high yield is not necessarily inconsistent with quality, provided that it is obtained from the proper class of milk and is not forced artificially.

hi the second plate the high valua-l tion of the Friesian cheese during September and October is important because, as a necessary corollary of what, has been stated above, it was the I period of highest moisture content. the, large majority of the Friesian and Ayrshire cheese manufactured duung this period contained from 39 to 4.0 pei cent, of moisture, as against/ 36 to ot per cent, in the Jersey, yet- numerous parcels of the low testing cheese throughout the period were classed as “good’body and texture,” and, as alreadv shown, fetched on the average a higher price'than the less moist higher testing Jersey cheese. This proves that I the low testing milk is capable of being manufactured into good cheese of high moisture content, and that such cheese, on critical examination, may be preferred to more fatty varieties containing less moistuie. A third and most important fact arises when we consider the high price of the spniur Friesian cheese in relation to the New Zealand export stand-1 ■ii-.ls for fat in the water-free _ substance. During this period the Friesian cheese contained, on the average, about 1 per cent, less fat in the water-free substance, and yet. sold at a higher average price.

This seems to indicate that the requirements for fat in cheese are not quite as high' as we have been led to suppose, and that a cheese can be quite satisfactory in regard to its fat content if made from normal whole milk of a, fat test as low as 3.4 per cent. Furthermore, it proves that no adequate premium in price can be commanded by cheese substantially higher in fat content, and hence that the use of high testing milk for cheesemaking is economically unsound for the reason that no return may be obtained for a very considerable proportion of excess butter-fat.

Another very important observation is the fact that, during its period of highest price the Friesian cheese frequently fell below the New Zealand legal limit of 50 pen - cent, of fat in the water-free substance, and yet, although officially ‘'below standard,” frequently commanded the top price for “finest grade” Now Zealand cheese.

Our Fat Standard Too High. This is surely an indication that the standard set for our cheese by our own regulations is unnecessarily high, and tliat it has not been set with due regaitl to the requirements of the market for which we cater. Our Canadian competitors have a 45 per cent, standard. and have continued to command a considerable premium over us in cheese prices for some long time past. In the present- investigation none of the low testing varieties of cheese ever ell below the 45 per cent, standard, or even reached within 1 per cent, of it, and the prices realised during this period of low fat tests are a proof that this standard of 45 per cent, of fat ill the water-free substance is quite sufficiently high to produce a cheese which satisfies the requirements of our market in every respect. «

During the second part of the season, lasting from November to January. the Jersey cheese showed at premium of slightly less than Is per cwt. over the Friesian, and slightly over Is fid per owe. over the Ayrshire. Errors in body and texture were the chief causes of the reduced valuation of the low testing breeds, while at the same time an undoubted superiority in flavour on the part of the Jersey cheese tended to increase the disparity in pri.e. Further reference to the laults of the low testing cheese will be made subsequently, hut the good batches manufactured during September and October are sufficient proof that there is no inherent and necessary connection between a low fat test and poorness of texture, provided that due regard t.s paid during manufacture to the nature of the milk and to the probable subsequent composition of the cheese.

in the final section of the season, lasting from mid-January until the end of April, 192 V, the Jersey cheese maintained a slight advantage in average pu-e, but the low testing varieties both improved relatively, so that in this period the Jersey advantage was only slightly better than Gd per cwt over the Friesian, and less than Is per cwt. o>er the' Ayrshire. It- is worthy ui mention that during this period the .Ayrshire tlavour appeared to be steadily improving, and this fact caused the Ayrshire cheese to .sell at. a slight premium o.cr the i’ricsiau during January, I'cbruary, and March. In April, however, it suOercd a relapse, and the Fiiesian cheese once more gained the advantage.

Over the whole season the Jersey averaged 81.83 shillings per cwt., the Friesian 84. GG. and the Ayrshire 82.91, or, in other words, there was a difference of 2d per cwt. between the Jersey [and the Friesian, and Is 9d per cwt. cetween the Friesian and the Ayrshire o.cr the whoie season. Euougli has already been said, of the general bacteriological diheronces between the respective milks, and especially ot the peculiar disadvantage suffered by the Ayrshire niil.v, to make it clear tnat the above soas-nal differences are more connected with the flavours than with the variations in fat test. This is amply confirmed by the remarks of the liter,bants and graders, and, in any ease, is rendered sel.-evident by the fact that the order of their values over the whole season, namely, Jersey, Friesian. Ayrshire, is neither the ascending nor the descending order of their fat tests.

It therefore appears that, had the milks been identical in regard to bacteriological quality, /there would have neen practically no difference between the average prices realised over the whole season by the three varieties of cheese. Even if this statement is disputed. we are still capable of establishing some very important deductions arising out of the 1 iacts that, notwithstanding a slight superiority in bacteriological quality acknowledged on helm!. of the Jersey milk, the Jersey cheese has secured an average of only 2d per cwt. over the Friesian. The facts which appear to be established are as vollow:

1. Cheese of varying fut and moisture content are not readily distinguished by grader or buyer provided that the analytical figures are neither excessively high nor excessively low. 2. If flic fat and moisture contents lie within reasonable limits obtainable by the use o. normal milk, very little notice is taken of them, provided that a well-flavoured, ■‘meaty” cheese, close and smooth in tody and texture, is obtained. 3. The present standard of 59 per cent, cf fat in the water-free substance of cheese is unnecessarily high, for the reason that cheese ot acceptable quality, with good body and texture, has been valued equal to ‘ •finest” New Zealand cheese although containing less than 59 per cent, ot fat in its dry matter. Indications pro that the standard of 45 per cent, set by Canada is

quite sufficiently high, and that it can always be coniiortably surpassed by the cheese made from nonnal whole milk of any breed.

4. Although preference is expressed by our buyers tor a ‘‘fatty” cheese, the product .of normal whole mi Ik of any breed appears capable of satisfying them in this respect; and the facts of this investigation prove that cheese or high fat content. i.e., with 53 to off per cent, of tat in its water-free substance, cannot command more than a most insignificant and totally inadequate premium in price over less tatty \ nineties made from normal whole mill;.

Report of London Committee of Merchants. Sufficient has alrcaMy been stated regarding the out-turn of the experimental cheese in London to make it clear that, taken as a whole, the cheese was considered rather poor and disappointing in quality, notwithstanding the fact that practically 95 per cent, of it was graded “first grade” in New Zealand. No doubt this disappointment is closely .connected with the following facts: Firstly", that all the experimental cheese was made from unpasteurised milk, and secondly that two-thirds of it consisted of low-testing material of high moisture content, and that this moisture favoured the dov elopmeu t oil frequent occasions hot only of excess acid, with its damaging effects upon the body and texture, but also of micro-organisms which exercised a deleterious influence upon the flavour. If such is the explanation, it is a strong argument iu favour of tlio still wider adoption of the pasteurisation of milk for cheesemakiug, as this process is a very important insurance against subsequent deterioration of the cheese, it has been suggested in some quarters that the present New Zealand tendenev to make pasteurisation universal is a mistake, in that it results in a cheese which is unsuited to the Home markets. The general attitude of English buyers to this question, however, is well put by Mr. A. W. Heyes, of Messrs Henry' A. Lane and Co., LtcL, London, as follows:

The consumer here does not care whether the cheese is pasteurised or net, so long as you give the flavour and character of cheese required. Neither does the distributor pay any serious attention to it. There arc just as many dealers and retailers who prefer non-pasteurised cheese as there are who prefer pasteurised cheese. In some districts non-pas-teurised cheese is favoured because it ripens quicker, and carries a bite with it that they like. In other districts where they only want mild flavour, they ,prefer ' pasteurised cheese. The majority of English consumers prefer a mild cheese.

It is therefore apparent that the question of “to pasteurise or not to pasteurise” is \erv little debated by our consumers, and that their main concern is cleanliness of flavour, and closeness and smoothness in body and texture. Such being the case, the picsout Investigation affords a strong argument in favour of the pasteurisation of milk lor cheesemakiug. This pro. ess certainly results in a very much greater uniformity in flavour, body and texture, and considerably reduces, if it does not frequently eliminate, the chances of subsequent deterioration of the cheese. This investigation shows that a large proportion of raw-milk cheese graced as “first grade” in New Zealand is likely to develop faults of a serious nature by the time it goes into consumption in England Tlieref. re we are justified in taking the necessary steps to reduce or eliminate this tendency, namely, by making the pasteurisation of cheese milk universal. L lliis process should result in too mild a cheese, this can be met by ripening lor a longer period the cheese intended tor those districts which prefer a sharper flavoured article.

Openness in Cheese. A considerable quantity of the experimental cheese of all breeds was lound oxtremely open in texture', and it is a well-known fact that this fault is at present shared by a largo proportion of ordinary New Zealand export cheese. An examination of the merchants’ reports from London indicates that a dcucicncy oi acid could \ury rarely have been the cause, as numerous batches acre found to be open and over-aciu atone and the same time, in addition, as •.ar as can be gathered ir-un tlio reports, only three batches jn the whole season’s make were considered “sweet’’ or “insipid,” whereas the fault of “openness” was, in, varying degrees, possessed by 50 to 75 per cent, of the total. I Definite assurance can also be given ‘that bacterial contamination oi the starter or of the cheese milk by large numbers uf gas-forming organisms was U-.L the root of the trouble, and this is confirmed by tlie remarks from London, which show that the openness deprecated was not the typical pin-hole or honeycomb texture ot a “gassy” cheese. There remains to bo discussed the question of the time of pressing of the cheese in the factory, and it is considered that this offers at least, some partial explanation o: the openness found. The majority of New Zealand cheese factories rarely press their cheese for a longer period than 18 to 23 hours. The cheese’ is hooped at appioximately 3 p.m. on the day of making, and is taken out of the hoops about I<J a.m. or 11 a.m. the following morning and transferred to the curing room.

Considering the fact that much, if not all, of English farmers’ and Scottish cheese is pressed for three days, the short period of pressing adopted in New Zealand factories appears to be totally inadequate.

Considerable improvement in this matter ol’ closeness of texture would certainly be secured by the provision in ci ery factory of duplicate sets of presses, whereby each day’s make of i hceso could be pressed lor approximately two days. This provision would result in increased financial returns, not only on account of the improved closeness of texture, but also by reason of the reduction m shrinkage which this investigation proves would follow as a result of the' increased closeness.

Another factor probably lias an important tearing upon the question or openness, namely, the temperature of flic curing- room. Where this is too high, the newly made cheese is dried rather severely in the first 14 days, and this is well known to have its effect in producing a tendency on the part of the texture to crack and open up readily. This explanation is substantiated in the present investigation ty the fact that quite a large proportion of the cheese made in September and October, and again in April, was definitely stated to be of good texture, and this cheese was cured during ttie cot»l months, the highest average temperature of which was 55.8 Fahr. for the month of October. On the other baud, the large majority of the complaints about looseness and openness were made concerning the summer

chce.se, which was cured at temperatures as high as 71 deg. Fahr., with an average temperature amounting to as much as 64.3 deg. Fahr. for the month of February. These observations, therefore, point to the advisability of extending the system of cool

ruling of cheese, not only on account of the improvement to be expected in texture, but also because of the saying which Would he effected in initial shrinkage. The whole of the remarks of tlie London committee make it very clear that the question of closeness ot texture is most vital, and that deductions in value will invariably be made for units in this direction, notwithstanding special merit : in other features. For example, in connection with the lersev batch Iv. made at the end of December, detailed criticism of each crate shows that this batch possessed clean flavour and “firm, smooth body, very fat and meaty. Notwithstanding' these merits, the following comment is added by tlic Loiidan committee . “If this batch comprised all close textured cheese, they would qualify, in our opinion, for lull market value. The only real criticism from a commercial ’standpoint is the open texture, which is a bad fault from the ictailer’s standpoint, as the loose and open si its in the cheese expand when they arc cut and exposed for sale.” Such being the attitude of our London buyers to the question of openness iu cheese, every effort' should be made at once to eliminate this fault, and it is considered that the two remedies already proposed, viz., more prolonged periods of pressing followed by “cool curing” will do much to minimise this cause of reduced l price for our export cheese.

BOD Y AND 1 TKXTUBEI OF EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE'..

Apart from tihe question of openness there remains that of the general character of the texture of the cheese and the firmness or otherwise of the body. An analysis of the remarks from London reveals that, although faults in this respect belonged' to all breeds, there was an undoubted preponderance of criticism against the summer cheese of the lower testing breeds. Amongst these sources of complaint, that of mealiness 1 , pastiness, and general weakness and.stickiness of body appeared to predominate. One naturally turns to tbe question of moisture content as an explanation of pastiness, weakness or stickiness of cheese. This doubtless 'is a correct explanation in those' cases where the moisture content of cheese has. been artifically forced beyond tbe limit proper to its fat and casein content, but it is considered that it cannot apply to the majority of oases in the present investigation. (After examining the analyses of the various breeds of cheese, the report makes the following statement): \Ve must come to the conclusion that a high moisture content does not, of itself", necessarily produce a weak, pasty, sticky /body, nor must a, lovv moisture content necessarily involve a dry mealy cheese, o.r vice-versa.

In seeking an explanation of harshness and mealiness pf texture, we cannot ignore the fact that the low' testing varieties of cheese were the chief offenders in this respect, and that the fault appeared to predominate during the summer months when the moisture content of the cheese was high. Another straw (blowing in the direction we seek is the fact that, coincident with the remarks l concerning the faults of body and texture, appear very frequent comments upon sour and aeidy flavours. It therefore appears that tbe develloplneut of excess acid has been the root cause of these faults' in the physical quality of the cheese. Colour is> lent to this explanation by the fact that raw milk would necessarily contain a greater population of acid-forming micro-organ-ism during the warm, summer months, thus providing an unknown quantity capable of subsequent self-magnificat-ion to an almost unlimited extent. Furthermore, the high moisture content ol tbe low testing cheese would provide an ideal substratum in which the development of acid-forming micro-organisms would be stimulated above the degree for which provision is usually made in manufacture. The beginning of thus tendency to develop over-acid was already evident in the New Zealand Grader’s comments of “slightly excess acid,” which appeared here and there during the months of December and January. Examples could, be multiplied to support the contention-that the mealiness ol the low testing cheese was the result pf a gradual development at excess arid favoured by tbe high moisture content,, and this is borne out by Ihe fact that this fault was not often found in the Jersey cheese. Present New Zcaiaud cheese factory methods have gradually evolved themselves by continued work upon milk of ever uncieasing fat content, and thus’ it appears feasible that tbe proportion of starter, and the general methods of handling m Hie factory were more suited to the Jeisey* cheese than to either of the, others. It i s suggested that a lower proportion of starter and a. lower development of acid during the various stages ot manufacture of the cheese f rom low testing milk would do much to ensure the out-turn in England of a elieese that was not spoiled by the development of excess acid after it had left tlie shelves. , . In any ease, tlie success secured by certain batches of the low testing cheese during September and October proves conclusively that low testing milk can be made into cheese ot good body and texture; and furthermore that tbe faults found with tlie 'low testing (djpgqn (liiii'inicr the isiuiimer months ’woie due to errors of judgment in manufacture and not to any inherent disability possessed by such milks for cheesemaking. Colour of Cheese.

The colour of so-called “white cheese, is evidently not a. matter of vital importance in. comparison with the moire serious considerations of flavour, body and texture, and apparently fat content. Nevertheless, there is a slight tendency to favour a genuinely white cheese rather than a yellow one, and comments were made with extreme frequency that the Jersey cheese was “rather too- coloury for white cheese.” Reference may here be made to Batch O 215-252 of Jersey cheese manufactured early in November. This was the first shipment of cheese considered “idoall.” The full comment is important. “These cheese are ideal in quality and flavour for the Home market, but for white cheese they show rather more colour (representing a. deep cream shade) than some parts of the country like. They are suitable for London and South West England, but Manchester and Birmingham prefer a- really white cheese ”’

From other remarks it may be informed that, whereas certain districts distinctly prefer a white cheese, others tolerate a yellow one without actually preferring it. Quite a number of Friesian and Ayrshire shipments were labelled with the remark “Colour distinctly white as preferred in certain districts,” whereas, in the ease of the yellow Jersey cheese, remarks were made such as : “These cheese are a little coloury for white cheese, but 'it is quite suitable for average trade,” or again, “Colour .shows hi. slight yellowish tinge, but this is in no way detrimental to the sale..” Thus, although the yellowish

typo pf “white” cheese is apparently idle rated, the truly white variety is preferred, and this is- rendered quite clear by a definite statement from the London committee that “White cheese-is preferred to the yellowish tinge, which so often accompanies tlie product at Jersey milk.” In this respect, therefore, the law testing Friesian and Ayrshire milks yield . a cheese which conforms to the stated preferences of tlie trade for, which we cater. Requirements of Trade for Fat in Cheese. It was expressly stated again and again by the London committee that cnees© must give the impression of con* turning a fair proportion of fat iu order to command full market price. Mr Heyes, of Messrs Henry A. Lane and (Jo.*, lias 1 stated in continuation of remarks already quoted: “The majority of English consumers prefer a mild cheese, but it must be fatty and butter vto be ideal. ” And again we have : “Fat is essential. The public do not like lean, dry cheese —it must be fat and buttery. ‘Buttery’ is the popular description for fat cheese.” As an example of type oi cheese considered ideal, we may again quote remarks concerning batch O 1 of Jersey cheese, manufactured from November 6 to November 12, 1927, from, milk avertipping, ‘j.43 ipi'T cent, of 'huttcTfut. This batch was expressly described as ideal in quality, flavour and fat content for the Homo market. The average analysis from seven samples taken at two days old was; —■ Moisture 35.13 per cent Fat 35.43 per cent Proteins 22.85 per cent Fat in tbe water free substance 54.62 per cent

Thus was the first batch pr Cheese expressly described as “ideal” in fat content, and, as it came fairly early in the season from the Jersey milk, one might therefore foe ied to suppose Chat the above expressions for tat content represent the absolute minimum acceptable to our market. Other remarks! and analyses, however, show that this is not the ease. Iu the first place, it is quite evident that those batches of Friesian and Ayrshire cheese which fetched “finest grade” valuation during September and October must have been ait least satisfactory in regard to their fat content, even if specific oojnment was not made to the effect that they were very good in, this respect. Moreover, it will not be forgotten that the cheese lowest in fat content, namely the Friesian, was valued, in the considered opinion of the London committee, at 'a higher average price than the relatively richer Jersey cheese during the spring portion of the season. As a typical example of such low testing cheese, we may again mention Friesian batch D manufactured on September 6,7, and 8, from milk containing an average of 3.56 of butterfat. From the analysis of this batch' we may observe that this batch contained 49.2 of fat in its waterifree substance, and yet was apparently satisfactory in fat content, in that it commanded the full price for “finest” grade New Zealand cheese, and was described as “very good and suitable for the best trade.”

In discussing the relationship between the fat contents of the experimental cheese and the New Zealand legal limit of 50 per cent, of fat in the water-free substance qf cheese, the facts of this investigation have already been considered to prove that this minimum limit of 50 per cent, is quite unnecessarily high, and) that, not only would all the requirements of our market in regard to fat be adequately met by our adoption of the Canadian standard minimum of 45 per cent., but also that no adequate premium in price can be commanded by Cheese which appreciably exceeds our already generous standard examples will serve to prove that the' desirable qualities of body and texture which give the impression of . a fatty cheese secured bv a certain relationship between tat and moisture, and that an appropriate percentage of moisture will do much to' atone for the absence of quite an Appreciable proportion of fat. In this respect, the results of this- investigation are quite in accord' with the findings of authorities. The very remarks made by the London committee —-“The public do not like lean dny cheese”—is a proof that the question of moisture content is inseparably connected with, popular and, export judgment concerning the fattiness or otherwise of a sample of cheese.

Variations in Fat Content with Advance of Seasons. in view of the fact that various batches of Friesian and Ayrshire cheese were considered, very good in respect to fat content wnen containing percentages of fat in the water-free substance ranging from under 50 per cent, to about 52 per cent., it will be interesting to note the remarks given upon the cheese made from t-liese same milks during the end of the season, when fat tests were appreciably higher, and to the Jersey cneese made from milk which never contained less than 1 per cent.' of butteirfat. in the first place, the general tenor of the remarks concerning the Jersey cheese- early in the season, indicated that its fat content was, at that stage, quite sufficiently high, and that more would have been, if anything, undesirable. There was, of course, plenty of toleration exhibited towards tne occurrences of fat in cheese, and the large majority of the summer Jersey cheese, classed generally as “very rich in fait, ’ appeared to be well received. 1 rom about January, 1927. onwards, the Jersey cheese fluctuated between oi and 58 per cent, of fat in the water-free Substance, and averaged very close to 56 per cent, during this period, buck a figure, need not be regarded as a standard, as other remarks prove conclusively that the fat percentages on the dry matter need not rise to sucdi a high value in order to excite special comment upon the good fatty character of the cheese.

For examples, w.e may take the lowest testing cheese (Friesian) manufactured during April, 1927. Three, batches out of the four were especially commented; upon in regard to their fattiness, while no special remark was made concerning the other.

It is therefore evident that, although the London market does not actually find fault with cheese possessing up to about 56 per cent, of fat in the dry matter, it can be satisfied by other joheese showing from 49 to 51 per cent., and is exceedingly well pleased with cheese possessing from 52 to 53 per cent, of fat in its water-free substance. From the above particulars of the late autumn Friesian cheese, it will be observed that a fat test of about 4.0 per cent, in milk is likely to produce a cheese having quite as much fat as the Home trade requires. This figure of about 4.0 is the approximate average fat test of many New Zealand cheese factories. Consequently, in the autumn months, when the fat tests are much above 4.0 the re is a likelihood of our exporting to Eiuglaud a considerable quantity of choose which far exceeds the requirements of our market in regard to fat content. Remarks and valuations are not lacking in connection -with the Jersey cheese made in the autumn months during the present-

investigation to prove that, not only does tide excess proportion of fat carry nc? appreciable premium in price, but also that it may be considered) a fault and thus be a reason for deductions . . . Figures male© it quite clear that percentages of fait over 56 per cent, in the water-free substance, are not readily satisfactory to our buyers. Hence the sending of such cheese to Eh-gl-and is an economic waste, not merely because no premium in price is secured for them, but also because they may actually be made the subject of deductions for what we in New Zealand, apparently Consider to be their supreme virtue. Since many New Zealand cheese factories show a seasonal average test of 4 per cent, of butter-fat, and considerably exceed that figure during the autumn months, it is at once demonstrated that the New Zealand dairy industry is annually losing huge sums of money by exporting, in overfat cheese, enormous quantities of butter-fat for which no financial return is ensured. To obviate these losses, and to secure for the dairy farmer proper remuneration for every pound of butter-fat which he, produces, a return to more reasonable butter-fat tests in our cheesemajcing milk is imperative. Since it will probably damage the reputation of our product if we attempt to lower the present richness by the process of part-skimming, the only course left open is the more * wide-spread adoption of the lower testing breeds such as the Friesian and Ayrshire in cheesemaking areas. Pay-out in Favour of Low Test. (After going thoroughly into the subject of “actual pay-out per lb of butterfai> earned fby tfhe milks of different fat tests,” taking the actual production month by month, and allowing the actual realisations of the cheese when valued on the Home market, the report makes the following statement): This investigation ,(therefore proves that, the relatively small production of Jersey cheese per pound of butterfat when compared with the performances of lower testing breeds cannot be compensated for in commerce by the slightly reduced shrinkage and/or the alleged superior food value and consequent higher selling price of the cheese owing to its greater content of butterfat. These advantages, if any, are so small in ma,gnitude that they entirely fail to make up for the reduced production, thus leaving for the farmer a margin of at least two pence per pound butterfat in favour of the production of normal low testing whole milk for cheesemaking. (To. be concluded.)