NEW FABRICS ARE KEY TO AUTUMN FASHIONS

Gisborne Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 22729, 30 August 1948, Page 2

NEW FABRICS ARE KEY TO AUTUMN FASHIONS

{(From Brabara Stevenson, Reuter’s correspondent) PARIS (By Air Mail). New fabrics perfected by research laboratories in France and “Britain will be a keynote of the autumn fashion collections both here and in London. Never has the variety of textiles been greater. Manufacturers are offering to [the public fabrics which combine the {art of an ancient industry with the genius of a modern scientific age. In the forefront of the fabric parade, undoubtedly, is rayon, either alone far mixed with older natural fibres such as wool, linen and silk. Nor is it any longer necessarv to plan your basic -wardrobe round black, brown or navy blue. Colours, subdued but lovely, are perfect as the background for the vivid rich touches which are being featured this autumn. Muddy beige and dark smoke grey are the most popular of the subdued tones, although a deep dust purple is also proving a popular base for colourJtil accessories. Influence of Stripes Stripes, ranging from tiny pin to several inches in width and with some graduating from narrow to wide on the same length, predominate in the fabric shows in Paris. Bucol is featuring a silk grosgrain in vivid citron- broadly striped on black velvet Perrier also shows velvet stripes, but graduated from a pin width to an inch and superimposed on dull faille. The most attractive example of stripes from the latter house, however, is woven from lame threads and backeu on the underside of slipper satin. The stripes, just faintly visible tnrough tne shimmering folds, give a slight frosted effect to the material. Rich but restrained shot taffeta is popular throughout and a. feature ot models both here and in London, beveral of the more luxurious examples, however, will not be available in Britain except for export as they are processed with more than the o per cent of pure silk which is allowed for home consumption there. This would, perhaps, have been a severe handicap m. the 1700’s but since the advent of rayon and nylon it can no longer be considered a great loss as many of the most practical fabrics offered to women today have no silk whatsoever in their weave. Nylons Still Popular ' Nylon has won a high place on the ladder of fashion and is still climbing. The most popular nylon here in Paris Is called craknyl and can be recognised by its pebbly weave. It is used for eVery purpose from evening dress to bathing suits, and is. practical in that it does not crease, dries in a few hours and folds into a minimum space. Shown first by Balmain and Molyneux three seasons ago in very restricted quantities, it is now available to all houses and according to the suppliers is also enjoying great popularity on the export market Another fabric which is making considerable headway i n the export trade is a gabardine called contre-plaque-This material is one of the by-products, of necessity, and was perfected and produced in France during the years of the occupation. It was first used as practical answer to th? problem of a fabric for women's uniforms. Women members of the Red Cross were the first to appreciate the unusual qualities of this 100 per cent synthetic cloth. Since the liberation, great quantities of this material have been produced and it has proved popular with all the French houses. The material is practical for the climate of Northern Europe, as it is wind-proof, water-proof and washable. It is not restricted to use for coats because it is pliable, drapes well, is durable and therefore in great demand for smart sports clothes.

Jersey in the Picture

Jersey is again, in the fashion picture with many houses purchasing this interwoven rayon fabric and dyeing it in colours they wish to feature. Two London fashion houses are using French jersey, especially dyed. Both have chosen a deep amber tone a little darker than the tone so popular in the spring and each is unaware that h& is not alone in his choice of colour and material. The House of Guillemin has for many seasons been the toast of the Paris fashion houses as the suppliers of an incomparable luxury satin. Dior, for example, has had great success with every model he has fashioned from this heavy slipper satin. To this house novelty is permissable only through the perfection of a weave or a blending of a dye. New colours are basically subdued, with tones so mixed that they can only be called component. Groys, for example, are mixed with brown and blue; greens are blue, and blues turn green under certain lights. There are a few pure colours., and even white is shot with ivory and translucent pastel tones.