MAINLY FOR WOMEN

Greymouth Evening Star, 22 March 1935, Page 11

MAINLY FOR WOMEN

ITEMS OF; INTEREST

bridal colours.

(By Mon. Mrs. C. W. Forrester.)

Wedding pageantry has reached its height of late in the case of Royal brides —the success of such splendour has been so great that some of the taller types of bride are following on similar though less magnificent lines. The beauty of white always appeals. The ice-blue milk-like shade looks lovely when worn by some girls. Others may require the rich ivory tones, or the off-the-white vzarmer tint that has a scrap of beige or pink in its blend. There are many wonderful woven silver and white brocades, crepe satins with a metal weave and charmeuse with a faille fipish.

Long associated with weddings is the rich creamy satin of a texture that once stood alone —in the old phraseology. The newer way is to have that same heavy thick satin but more pliable and drapable. Many springbrides will choose this traditional fabric treated in the new mannei. There is no better background for valuable lace, and wo shall see much fine lace worn this season by both the young and old, the bride and the dedebutante. Tulle, too, always the most lively background for the bridal veil, is much used, but of a slightly firmer texture and rendered stiffer by occasional lines of silver thread. Silver will more than ever be favoured at this year’s weddings. Charming are the woven silvery brocades. A recent country bride had selected a woven somewhat faint silvery spot in the softest and palest of pink lame. There will be two distinctive types in bridal robes for spring and summer,J the stately medieval effect in brocade, satin, or velvet cut in the classic i streamline. A Medici collar will be | found in better keeping with tae long mouded sleeves and sheaf of lilies or prayer book. The Medici collar of •ace gives a great dignity and permits M' necklet or rope of pearls being worn to advantage. The bridal neckline will follow the vogue of importance in this detail. The bateau-lino suits youth, so does the slightly embroidered rounded shape with the neckline high a.nd draped on the collarless finish. fihe jewels also can influence the choice; but for picturesque pageantry I prefer the Medici-like collar, providing the bride is tall and chooses the mediaeval style of gown, with girdle. The more usual princess wedding ’own is cut in one long line, shaped, but without any form of band or girdle. There may a train suspended from the shoulders instead of being cut in one. With a view to a future •Court,’’ this is.a more practical wedding fashion. ! . The beauty of the Infanta. Beatrice of Spain’s ultra-long train was enhanced by a deep border of white ermine, but tlie average girl would probably prefer a narrower effect, or possibly an edging of white ostrich. I noticed an effective design in an off-the-wliite (just tinted pink) lame splashed with silver that was simply draped to the throat in the front, hut from a tiny square ostrich feathery capelet at the back there came a square train of lho same lame edged with an insertion of pink feather, hem-stitched on bv sliver thread. floating veil of palest pink tulle this was a very becoming'frock.

TAFFETA VOGUE.

The petite bride of 1935 will be wall catered for. For her will be tho much-talked-of taffeta—that bouffant sort of ultra-feminine frock with light and exquisite laces caught here and there by bunches of tulle and floral petals, llie faintest tones of blue and ol pink maj possibly compete with the traditional white. Crepe-satin and faille suits these new lace draperies. Taffeta and lace draperies, however, fascinating, will not, however, prove so popular as tho dignified severer streamline eleWhite faille flaked with silvei is a favoured fabric and would make up well in either style. The caiffon robe may be a choice of the later season. Chiffon is lovely when veiling a satin or taffeta, but the latter has a more old-world flavour. Rosalba; crepe is a new material, pleasing for the budor her maids. . My advice to tho coming bride is to b© faithful to a deiinitc bridal scheme, and insist firmly on her entourage being likewise! If it is to be a pageant of stately lines and mediaeval magnificence, let the maids be clothed in fabric of similar trend. On the other hand, should the bride be piquant n the ethereal picturesque trend of the eighteenth or nineteenth century, let her insist on her maids being bo tfani.” in taffeta and net, so that the light gay note prevails throughout m colour and material. There is already a great feeling tor the taffeta fete and evening frocks. With their fanciful trimming and fuller Skirts, they arc fascinating.

DEPRESSION’S CURE.

LETTER TO A LONELY WOMAN.

Over IVO years ago depression, evidently, was as much a subject.of drscutsion as it has been recently. Anu so Sydney Smith wrote a letter about its euro to a very lovely lady upon whom a state bordering on intense ennui and mental exasperation had descended with untimely force. We wonder what our readers of today will think of Sydney Smith s suggestions. . . „„ The depressed one is to eat as good food as is suitable; to plunge under a shower bath ot coldish waiei, to read amusing books: and to take short views of human life—not farther than dinner or tea’. To be as busy as she can; To sec as'rnucli its she can oi friends who respect and like her, and acquaintances who amuse her. Sho is also to compare her own lot with other people's, and to do good and endeavour to please everybody of every degree; To be as much in tiie open air as possible without fatigue;- - To make her sitting-room gay and pleasant; To struggle little by little against idleness;

To do herself justice, nor to be too severe upon herself; To keep up good blazing fires in cold weather;

■ To be firm and constant in her religious faith.

SEEN AT PARIS DISPLAYS.

(By a Fashion Expert).

Panels attached to a front surplice yoke to hang down the back from cither shoulder on a chalk-white marocain gown.

Butterfly winged back decollete on Chanel white organdie gowns. The wings roll from before arms into perfect form as far as a V pointed back decollete, and the flat winged effect may be displayed beneath on the skirt. Decolletes are formed into revers from variegated butterfly patterned Chines and into looped effects from floral crepes. Full length overcoats with normal waistline in a darker colour like navy over grey, for example. Burgundy dark or brilliant red, arc other definite colours that are repeated to charm the eye over frocks of gaycoloured printed crepes de Chine. These tailored coats vie with tailored suits.

Au interesting point is the threepiece ensemble of skirt and tailored jacket, the latter revealing a new type of sun-back in blouses for ordinary spring and summer town wear. This new movement in blouses shows the material rising up from waist at centre back to connect with an equally high front. The touch of turquoise blue on beige or white on turquoise is alluring in new-fashioned caped ensembles by Germaine Boilly. These are sometimes split up the back as far as the waist and cut away in front. The latter form applies to one of the new fancy linen fabrics in oatmeal beige, the dress being cut on a simple shortsleeved easy line and adorned by a I turquoise leather belt and necklace > of turquoise-blue leather buttons. Tillite leather buttons appear halfway up the centre front from hemline of u turquoise-blue lainage frock. These are tied on with leather thongs to match a giant, button to the white leather waistbelt. Just to change the jabot tendency one is made like a rosette from white linen. Morning suits are smart when a plain beige ■ skirt takes line beneath tailored jacket, showing darned coloured threads in colours running down and round a vestee that has a low-cut, square-front neckline. Cire straw embroidery is connected up in rows to a round neckline and looped in flat formation on bare upper arms. This frock of heavy black silk crepe has a short flat peplum that finishes either side of the back, to rise in ' broad ribboned panels on the bodice.

A fan of pheasants’ tail feathers indicates a return to these charming evening details. Other fans are of white ostrich and pink coq feathers. The new clip launched by Vera Borea is a drowsy bee of opaque white crystal, which she attaches to the front V decollete and back waistline of u black evening gown. This designer’s idea is to strike the golden mean between vzidtli and sylphlike fittings. Auotiitr motif in decoration is a briar rose of iridescent cellophane on black afternoon frocks.

CORRECT LINE TO LINGERIE.

Lingerie, in its modern phase, is an all important item in the wardrobe of the well-dressed woman. Not a. ripple or a, stain must mar the streamlined silhouette of the morning, afternoon or evening frock. To this-end famous dress designers have guided the correct lines for all types of undergarments, and manufacturers arc excelling In the production of fabrics which, by reason of their beauty and lasting qualities, are perfect materials for carrying out these attractive designs. It matters not what, tho garment may be. There are the slinkiest of woven milanese silks, the washable satins, and, most favoured of all, the crepc-de-Chiues; then there are charming flowered mousselines and chiffons; voiles, and other sheer cot«;on materials in which the lingerie’ designed for 1935 day and night wear is modelled. Luce and hand embroidery are two of the chosen mediums for the adornment of the present-day lingerie, and although' for day wear the lines are necessarily slender and willowy, for night wear there are two distinct styles, the slimly tailored and the “pretty-pretty” frilled and ruchcd designs. For these models there are flowered silks and muslins with a silken surface and texture. The delicate frills are most beautifully finished and inset with the. finest of hand needlework. Often there is a soft silk ribbon trimming in the form of side tie sashes over the hips. Frills, wide or narrow, are arranged over the shoulders of these sleeveless nightgowns, or form a jabot, wide at the throat, and narrowing towards the- natural waistline.

In more tailored type, made in plain silk materials, there is a liking for hand embroidery in self-coloured silks. Punched embroidery is most effective. Collars and cuffs, yokes snd shoulder cape sleeves are adorned in this way on many of the new models. There is a delicate veining stitch which is also used in conjunction with extremely fine tucks. INSTEP LENGTH. Sleeping suits and nightdresses are instep long and full skirted, and in both tiie garment is practically fitted to tho figure, by means of clever cut-' ting, tho finest of seams, or hip yoke cmpiccements or hip ribbon sashes. Other pyjama models are designed with little fitted jackets, but even these uro mainly waisted with dart seams at back and front. Lingerie colours incline to the. new soft shades of blue and pule green, the pale primrose yellows and, of course, the infinite variety of peach ton.s which range from deep ro.-e peach to tho lightest tints. Tiie great advantage of this popular colour is that there are so many lingerie laces which rone happily with it. In other colouis, when lace is the decoration, the exact toning of the contrasting colour has to be selected carefully, if ono is making up one's own lingerie—us so many women do nowadays. Tho safest, choice is a clear bolt ivory-coloured lace. As a matter of fact the ivory shades or very pale beige are among the most rethfactory lingerie colours; they are attractive in crepe-de-Chines, lingerie rutins, and as a background for floral designs in all fabrics, in some of the newest lingerie fabrics ivory or beige is used us a. background for stripe aul spot designs in the latest 1935 spring cclcuringH.—E.M.B. in London “Daily Telegraph"