THE FIRST COURT

Evening Star, Issue 18334, 23 July 1923, Page 8

THE FIRST COURT

[Written by “ Cynthia,” for tho ‘ Evening Star.’] LONDON, June 1. Wonderful dresses graced the first Court of the season, and it was a brilliant spectacle. A feature of tho gorgeous function was its internationalism, for surely never have there been so many presentations of women belonging to other nations, or not of purely British blood. No pageant ever devised can outshine a British Court, and tho flash of jewels, glint of shining uniforms, wonderful sparkling gowns, and exquisite flowers make a magnificent picture. Not since tho war has anything so sumptuous been attempted, and though the Prince of Wales was absent, also the Duke and Duchess of Yoric (the latter suffering from a mild attack of whooping cough), and Princess Mary, it was a company notable for quality. THE QUEEN’S GOWN. A friend, who was presenting two or three debutantes, tells mo the Queen was a simply lovely picture in her exquisite robes, and was stately and dignified beyond description. Tho material of her rube was cloth of gold, shot with the glow of sunset, opalescent colors blending in sublime harmony. Tho front was a mass of pearls and topaz-shaded diamante, and largo pearly paillettes, transparent and iridescent, containing all the delicate tints of a soap bubble. Each side of tho jupo was decorated with panels adorned witli the same glinting incrustations of opalescent hue, against which a paler background of gold gave a beautiful effect. Tho corsage was of gold lace over pale pink mousseiine-do-soie, tbo sleeves composed of closely-looped chains of transparent pearly paillettes. Tho man-teau-do-cour fell from Her Majesty's shoulders in lovely folds, and was composed of silver and pale gold hand-woven brocade, all of English manufacture—this lavishly embroidered with diamante and glittering paillettes, and exquisitely draped with priceless point do Flanders la.ee, the deep ivory tone blending in superb harmony. From neck to waist jewels formed a liquid river of light, brilliant and dazzling, the blue garter ribbon seeming to throw up their beauty more conspicuously. An all-round tiara crown of diamonds, ’with the, great Koh-i-noor in the centre, gave added lustre. Punctually to tho minute their Majesties made their entrance, and, preceded by the Lord Chamberlain, the Lord Steward, the State Chamberlain, and Hie great officers of Slate and Court officials (all walking backwards), they slowly made their way through tlie whole suite of rooms to the Stale ballroom, and were conducted to the throne dais.

Fur a moment I will turn to tlio scene without. It attracted thousands, and fortunately the night was fine and clear and a good deal milder than it has been, for never have we known such a bitterly cold May. Car after car followed one another tilled with billowy chiffons, lace, elegant wraps, and beautiful women. Nodding white pinnies were all that the onlookers could catch sight of, in some cases. The scarlet of brilliant uniforms came ns bold splashes, for most of the men escorting their women folk did not find it necessary to wear greatcoats over their uniforms, and the breasts of most glittered with medals. ■ THE DRESSES. I asked two or three friends who were present what was their opinion of Iho dresses, as I am sure you' will want to know something as to line with regard to them. Well, nearly all canned the straight, clinging silhouette, and very few were of the bouffant or picture order with hooped hips. For such an occasion, except perhaps on the very slimmest, the style is ugly, to my mind, and I was very glad to note that the best modistes had sternly set their face against this fashion for Court dresses. Then the rumor had spread everywhere that bright (’(dors wore to he do rigour ; but those did not prevail, and really the softest, tonderest tints were the most favored. The most fashionable and popular material was undoubtedly fnlgurante, which has a sort of sheeny tissue finish with the color woven beneath to produce the glow which comes through tlio silvery surface. It is quite new this season, and made its appearance at (ho winter dances nn.d balls, and immediately caught on. It drapes charmingly, and is not ruinously expensive. Cold and silver tissues were also greatly in evidence, and lace of both those textures was also immensely used. Lovely family lace always finds its own unrivalled position at Court functions. This was, of course, for the older and married women, and some wonderful specimens adorned many lovely creations. Roth llowors and fans were carried, and I do not think' anything can boat, the former for charm. Family jewels of tlio heavy Victorian order were not much worn, most of the ladies preferring light filigree bandeaux and coronets; hut there were many magnificent tiaras—the newest are much lighter in design than the oldtime shape. Resetting precious stones is a, costly business, and in these days of enforced economy few can afford such a luxury. Heavy tiaras are, moreover, very tiring to wear, and few people v/ould believe how lightly flic new ones are made, or how light are the crowns worn by the Queen. This is naturally thought out, and it has been told me on several occasions that wonderful imitations of the Royal crown and jewels are often used because of their lightness. .Also, I heard that quite a number of peeresses wore exact replicas of family jewels this year, as burglaries are so common and frequent that owners of valuable jewels are afraid to let them see tlio light of day. This is absolutely a fact in the case of pearls, as no one but an export (and not always these) can ho sure of the rent thing, so faithfully arc they reproduced. These pearls are not cheap, I know a lady who wears a rope which took first prize at the lifi exhibition held hero, and she gave £2O for it; hut it is simply a remarkable imitation.