THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 17922, 18 March 1922, Page 5

THE GARDEN

Work !©r the Week.

Out contributor, a well-known gardmtT, will ht ,jlad to answer questions, which must be received not later than Tttes j lay of each wed.

VEGETABLES. Wo arc at a season when it is advisable to sav a little upon the very important subject of the rotation of crops—an important subject in the cultivation of vegetablos or any other crop, whether it ba flowers, vegetables, or cereals. To grow one class ol plants year after year, or oven two or three years in succession, no matter how much manure is given, sooner or later means teat crops will bo a failure, for the reason that each class of plant takes from the ground quite a different kind of chemical _ food, Bras.dcas, including all kinds of cabbage, caulillowers, green ol all kinds, including turnips, should never follow cadi other, but be grown on a plot by themselves; all root crops, such as carrots, parsnips, beet, and celery on another; and peas, beans, lettuce, radish, and such like on a third plot.

Onions arc somewhat an exception to the rule. With good cultivation, and on a piece (il ground that suits tiiem, U.e\ will crow and flourish for many years. This season of the year is the be. ; t tor thinking out a system of rotation, for the reason that many crops are past and the around cleared, and others maturing as the season advances, enabling a fresh start to bo made at the beginning of the season. No matter what, size or extent of ground one has, it should be divided into four sections. Nos. 1. 2. 3. and 4. We will dispose of No. 4 by planting it with a permanent crop, such as asparagus, sea kale, rhubarb, herbs, and others. The other three should be kept in some such rotation as this ; No. 1, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, celery, leeks, and beet; No. 2, peas, beans, onions, summer 'spinach, etc. ; No. 5. hrassicas of all kinds, including cabbage. cauliflower, broccoli. Brussels anrouts, curly kale, and turnips. In the following year let No. 1 be cropped as No. 2 .and No. 2 as No. 3, and in the third season a corresponding change should be made, constituting the three-course system.

‘ There is no question ns to the advisability of early trenching and manuring the 'ground. Trench and manure every foot of ground as it becomes vacant whilst the ground is warm and dry. Lime is essential more or Jess on all classes of land, though some soils are naturally charged with it, and therefore do not require it\o .such an extent as others. Without lime in some form it is impossible for plant life to get the full benefit of the chemical or mineral constituents on which plants feed. A good and simple method of finding out if soils require lime is to put a large tablespoonful of the soil into a cup, then pour in enough muriatic acid (spirits of salts) to cover the soil: stir it up, and it will fizz if lime is present, according to the extent of lime. If little or no lime is present it will rot bubble up; then the ground is sick, and 'should have a good dressing. On the ’other'hand, if it fizzes briskly no lime is \ required. The best time to apply lime j is on a rough surface, immediately afterdigging or trenching; but in no-case should j it bo allowed to como into direct contact with manures. THE VINERY. | Attend to the pinching back or re- ! rnoval of all sub-laterals. On no account f should overcrowding of foliage be permitted. Caro should bo taken to preserve the foliage of the main arms, particularly the - large leaves at the base of the fruiting bra'iiches at the base of the sterns that are of the most consequence, as the buds at the base of each stem are those that have to supply the next season’s_ fruit. Where these large base loaves are injured they cannot make a bud sufficiently, developed to produce a strong shoot capable of giving good fruit. The great point is to maintain these leaves in health without inducing new growth. Give all ventilation possible to encourage the ripening of the fruit and wood. During very wet and unfavorable weather ventilation should be modified for the sake of the fruit that is still uncut, but after the fruit has been all well ripened off, open all ventilators, and have them open day and night, to thoroughly harden up the wood, as unripe wood cannot produce first-class fruit. Keep a watchful eye upon the fruit for any berries that may have damped off or any that may have shanked. In both cases such homes should be clipped out as soon as seen, particularly those that have damped, as if left they will soon cause others to go in the same way. ROSES. Keep an eye upon stocks for suckers, which should be removed as soon as seen. Inspect carefully all budded stocks. _ If misses have taken place, there is still time to insert other buds; but this must be done before the sap has gone down. Stocks, where early buds have come away strong, mav be headed back and support stakes stuck in. Securely tie the young roses, or they may be blown out of the stocks bv the wind. Hoe the surface- soil to keep down weeds and keep the ground open and sweet.

ANSWERS. “ Amateur.” —The plum tree leaves fovwarded are badly affected with shot-hole fungus. This disease is very prevalent in some districts. It mostly attacks stone fruits, particularly plums. The best euro is to keep the ground surface clean and free from grass and rubbish, and spray with Bordeaux mixture once wlicn_ the leaves are all off in winter with the winter formula, and a second spraying with the summer formula when the leaves are well formed after the fruit is sot. Trees are more subject to this trouble or disease where grass or weeds are allowed to accumulate on the surface under the trees. “ Rose.” —The large potato forwarded shows a hollow centre. This arises from one of two causes, or from both; overfeeding, perhaps, with a lot of green vegetation or fresh manure, and. too much moisture. Deep black soil, with the above manure added, is very liable to produce potatoes such as the one forwarded. “ Button.’’—The apple forwarded is Old English Codlin, badly with bitter pit. The best advice I can give is either to remove it from its position by cutting it well back and putting it in a more open situation, where it can get. more light, and trim the roots and raise it as high above the cold clay bottom as possible; or, if it,is too large to shift, dig around it and underneath, pack in some fresh loam, and hard prune the branches, to, induce it to make fresh young healthy growth. “ Clematis.” —It is , very provoking to see an apparently healthy plant die so suddenly; but yours is not an isolated case, for I have seen several similar Instances, £ attribute the . saw*— pi

this to the stock upon which it is grafted. I do not think such would happen to a well-grown plant such as you epeak of if it were grafted on a good soft clematis root. Montana roots are used sometimes for want of suitable roots of tho clematis. Jaokmanii, I think, is the purple one you refer to. It is one of tho very best deers. I have no idea what else could bo tho means of your apparently healthy plant going off so suddenly. “Amateur.”—! will give particulars next week of how to go about preparing ground 1 for roses. H.O.

NOTES. THE VALUE OF LIME. As a soil .sweetener and purifier and us a liberator of pota=h lime is invaluable. Where the soil is sour and stagnant owners of gardens should make an autumn application of it. Apply at the rate of about half a pound to tho square yard and dig it in. Avoid the mistake of applying lime and organic manure at the same" time. Lime liberates the ammonia in the manure too quickly.

GOOD BOCK PLANTS. Amateurs constructing rockeries or rock gardens should me plants which are moderate in growth but free in flower. On no account should the following be overlooked -Dwarf anchusas. aubrietins, dwarf campanulas, alpine phloxes, primulas and saxifrages in variety, dianthuscs, hcpaticas, dwarf anemones, and early dowering bulbs such as snowdrops, crocuses, chionodoxas, and irises. SAVE WOOD ASHES.

Now that the dinging season is coming along you naturally begin to wonder whit you arc going to put on your land in the way of stimulants. Of course, when trenching your ground later use organic manure at the base of the trench ; hut in the meantime save all the wood ash you can possibly get. Wood ashes include not only the ash from a wood lire, but also those from a fac where garden rubbish or poor soil has been burned, and only that rubbish which cannot bo used for rotting dawn should be burnt, because, however good burnt stuff is, rotten stuff' is better.

You will perhaps have noticed when you have been out in the fields how well those pieces of corn look which arc growing on the spot where there has been a fire, and if tins is an example of what is. obtainable in ihe fields, it naturally follows that equally good results will follow in the garden. Wood ashes add to the pota-h in the ground, and aerate and open the soil, and to apply it just spread the burnt refuse freely over the ga-don and dig it in. If not used on the ground right away, keep them dry until required.

GARDENING CLUB. At the meeting of (he Gardening Club on Tuesday last the evening was given over to the care of the ladies. Mr 1 follingsworth opened tho meeting, and explained to the members the object of the evening—that it was to Ire devoted entirely to a demonstration of decorative and floral work. .Mrs Trevena, who occupied the chair, then introduced the ladies who were to demonstrate, and who were all members of the Dunedin Horticultural Society —viz.. Mrs Jones. Misses MTntyro and Turner. Mrs Trevena commented on the splendid work that had been done by the first-mentioned lady, an amateur who had the professional touch, and who docs some very original work. The other two ladies are so well known as professionals that their work needs no comment. She also urged members to study Nature in ail her moods for the blending of colors. Miss MTntyro then proceeded to demonstrate how very easy it is to make a shower bouquet; indeed, her work was simply and quickly done, and yet ihe effect was light and beautiful- She showed plainly how and when to wire, the flowers and the maimer in which they should be grouped- Afterwards the work was passed round to those present and examined with keen interest.

.Mrs Jones then, proceeded to create an artistic effect with the. best materials at hand—asters and foliage—of an impromptu decorated table. She built up a pleasing decoration which well illustrated in its elegance what this particular art of floral decorative work should bo. .Members expressed themselves a* highly pleased with the result.

Miss Turner then came forward and explained the fundamental, part of the decorated basket. She then proceeded to fill it with roses and foliage, and gave various little hints at the same time. The effect of her work was dainty and light, and the little basket when finished was much admired.

At tho end of the demonstration (Mr Passmore thanked the ladies for what they had said and done,- remarking at tho same time that it had been ono of tho club’s most successful evenings, and that at forthcoming shows he was sure that many of those present would come forward as exhibitors.

ilrs Trevena, in thanking Mr Passmore for the nice things said and tho cordial reception given to the three ladies who had spoken that evening, also expressed the hope that much good would result, and that many of those present would try their skill' at future shows.

MAKING A MORAINE GARDEN.

To those gardeners who think with despair of the number of delicate rock plants they have lost through tho excessive damp that accumulates in tho pockets of the rockery- and rroves too much for their constitution, the moraine garden will be salvation. If the number of plants required _ is not at first great, and the gardener desires to experiment in a small way- what -m can grow in this addition to the garden, he can start ou restricted lines that could in no way be called too ambitious or extravagant, giving a square yard or i wo of loose tiny favorites that have before baffled hia skill. As the whole secret of success lies in quick drainage, and yet cool root hold during tho hottest part of tho year, tho foundations must bo considered carefully. First dig out earth to tho depth of to 2ft, or, alternatively, build up the sides of tho pocket with rock to the required height. This latter method is preferable, as tho diminutive plants require to be brought nearer the eye for their -great beauty to be enjoyed will out constant stooping. As a moraine is in tho nature of a natural gully between rocks, tho idea v ill be grasped. Let it slope if possible towards the sun, flattening out like the lower elopes of ft mountain, protected

where possible from the biting winds that are as dangerous as stagnant drainage to these more delicate ■ alpines. JTo first 6in of foundation should bo three parts of river pebbles to one part of river grit, or, alternatively, broken crocks or brickf On tho top of this place a layer _of finer stones, and follow on with a mixture oi three parts of fine granite chips or fine limestone chips to one part of sandy loam. In si/o these chips should not be larger than a walnut or smaller a and- the best plan is to finish, off with a layer of the finer size with tho sandy loam, and where a bolder effect is desired add a few large chips to break Hie monotony. Planting should be done with the greatest care, remembering that to press the soil and stones firmly homo as In ordinary planting would bo ruination to the tcr.oer roots. Water freely after planting for a time until tho plants are settled, and u the foundations have been well and truly laid there, will be no fear of stagnation, the moisture, freely percolating away in a way that assures a healthy home for tho plants. . , c Two classes of plants are catered .or in the moraine—those to whom excessive moisture is death, and tho intense lovin- plants that euioy any amount ot sun. ' All those .plants that possioly have onlv flowered shyly or have dwindled, do what one would, will probably succeed perfectly in the moraine. The alpine or rock pink's will bo happy there, lotcntiUa niticla, myosotis alpcstris rup. cola, dongiasia laevigata are true moraine plants : and there are a whole host ox the smaller campanulas that would include 0. stansficldi. , The gentians, both gentiana acauhs and eentia.iia. verna, which seem to bo Ire ambition of every rock gardener- to grow, would bo suitable as well, and there nro two varieties less well known—G. alba (a rare white form of G. acauhs) and G. brachyphylla (a dwarf form of G. verna). All”the rock jasmines (Androsacc) will enjoy this form of cultivation, the quip*, drainage in gritty S °H suiting them admirably ; besides which they are sun-loving, po Give them every chance to obtain the benefit of full sun, and they will repay Hie adventurer, who is, setting out on a delightful now venture in making an alpine moraine.—‘ Popular Gardening.