DUNEDIN TO HOKITIKA

Evening Star, Issue 14036, 17 April 1909, Page 9

DUNEDIN TO HOKITIKA

VIA THE HAAST PASS AND SOUTH WESTLAND, WITH A BICYCLE. [By Andrew L. Fogo.] Having heard glowing accounts of the scenery to be witnessed in going through the Haast Pass arid also in South Westland, a friend and th© writer determined to get out of the “beaten track” and “do” this trip on bicycles. I say “on,” but the word “on” ought to be altered to “ with,” for reasons shown later on. This particular part of New Zealand seems to h© little known, it being out of th© ordinary run of tourists or travellers. Wo could gather very little information about th© track, and what w© did was to the effect that it could not b© don© with bicycles. Houses war© th© “things” to A couple of th© statements were “W© could not cross the rivers,” “W© could not get over the hills and the pass,” and there were many other “could nets” in the yarns told to us. One man, who said he had been over on horseback twenty years ago, told the writer that the latter “ was mad ” to even think of tackling th© trip with a “ bike.” This mad© ns all th© more determined to go, if only for the satisfaction of saying “W© can do it.” Business affairs precluded my friend getting away, and as the rivers on the West Cbast are generally low about March I made up my mind to go “on my own.” Taking the train to Clyde, a good dusty road can be ridden most of the way from her© to Pembroke, on Lake Wanaka. From Cromwell to Pembroke the weather was glorious, and at the Luggate, twelve miles from Pembroke, the writer was eating grapes grown and ripened in the open air. Pew Dunedin people seem to know what a fine climate exists in these parts. Fox months little rain falls, and the sun comes out very hot and warm for months at a time. The starting-place for the —Haast Pass Track—is at tne head of Lake Wanaka, thirty-five miles north of Pembroke. The head of the lake can be reached by steamer or by a road halfway, and th© other half is a home track. The road and track can be easily negotiated on a bike. By going this way good views of Lakes Wanaka and Hawea are seen, as the' road is along the Hawea side; then, crossing a saddle between the two lakes, the track goes along the Wanaka side to Makarore, at the head. Stopping at Makarore for the night, a start was made at eight o’clock in the morning for the first portion of the Haast Pass. It was a splendid morning, and th© sun shining on the dense birch bush on the side of the Makarore Valley made and formed a picture well worth seeing. The first eight miles can bo easily ridden on a “ bike,” then at an old saw-mill sit© the Haast Pass track begins. The track is for the most part through bush, over rivers, through a few open flats, over stony and shingle river beds. Through the bush the “ bike ” has to be pushed; it cannot be ridden, owing to roots and branches. Over the rivers it must b© carried. Through the few flats, with few exceptions, it has to be pushed and carried, as these flats are mostly overgrown with vegetation; and oyer the , r tony river beds there is no riding. _ Walking is even pretty tiring, there being so much sand, fine shingle, and big stones. —Fording Rivers.— After being in the bush for about two miles, an open space called Cameron’s Flat is reached, and here the first river is forded. It was nearly up to my waist, and about 100 yards wide. It was deep only in the centre, where a few holes exist; water pretty cold. More bush, and then a mile through th© track, all covered with roots and mud holes. Two miles an hour is a fair pace here. More small creeks, and then the Makarore is forded ; water cold, and about six inches deeper than ones knees. Again more bush, and more creeks, and the track starts to go uphill. The valley now appears to converge. The hills on both sides are covered with dense bush, and there are no sounds but these of rushing waters. Bird life up to the present seemed to be absent. More bush, more uphill, then a sudden break downhill and across a swiftly-flowing stream, and the stiff climb up the pass starts. Although the Haast Pass is low—under 2,000ft — this latter “ bit ” is a bit stiff. The track being only a rough horse track, with plenty of large rocks and stones in it, the bike had to be carried. I am a. bit tough at this bike-carrying game, having don© plenty of it, but I must confess that when I got to the top of the pass, what with the steepness and the hike, I was completely “blown out.” But the scenery was worth it. Far below, out of sight, hidden by the bush, could be heard the sound of the rushing wafers, wliilst there was bush everywhere. Still following the track for miles, the first crossing of the Haast River is reached. The water now falls to the other side of the island, as the top of the pass has been passed. Near this part of the Haast track a serious fire has lately taken place. In parts the bush has been burned right up to th© snow line. Many hundreds of acres have thus gone up in smoke, and an ugly blot is left in the landscape. Boiled the billy and had some dinner here. Anyone crossing the Haast Pass must carry some eatables, as there are no hotels on this route. Track in good order for a mile past here ; rode most of it. This was th© only ride I was able to get that afternoon. More bush, and downhill over- rough tracks. Grossed the 'Haast River fourteen times, each time getting a little larger and deeper, the hist crossing being at a place where the river is confined and running swiftly—waistdeep here. About two miles further on the W ills River is crossed. A bridge crosses this river, as it runs through two high, rocky walls. Some ' —Splendid Scenery—is to be seen near here. The Haast River tumbles over its rocky bed and makes a tremendous noise. Miniature waterfalls are here by th© dozens. The track from the Urels River bridge descends rapidly, and after som© three miles are passed a fine flat—-through which the track is cut through the bush—is opened out. The bush here is thick, and there are many high trees. An iron hut is situated at the side of the track, called the “ Bourke Hut,” I camped in this hut for the night, using dry ferns for bed and blankets. Next morning I crossed the Haast for the last time, half a mile from the hut, waist deep and very cold. The track now goes through some glorious bush, and suddenly opens out in a fine flat, about a mile long. Could not ride the track for rabbit holes. This flat, about 200 acres, was literally “alive” with rabbits. I have never seen so many rabbits on so small a piece of country before. The majority of the bunnies were black ones. Good cheque to be made trapping here. I lost , the track at the end of this flat; it took me two hours to find it, as it was overgrown .with grass and other vegetation, and the bush finger post had fallen down. There are finger posts wherever the track leaves and enters the bush-. I took the old track, keeping to the left, which obviates crossing the Haafet River again. Getting over this track for three miles was pretty rough. Bike had to be carried. In the bush the track was overgrown with fern. More river bed, and the track goes sharply to the left around the Clark Bluff. This part of the track is in good order., A fine view of the Landr-borough River m _ obtained from here. This river now joins the Haast, and the latter is now fairly large, and cannot be forded on foot even in fine weather. After leaving the Clark Bluff the track is all overgrown and continues so till the Clark Hut is reached, seven miles from the Bourke Hut. It took me five hours to do these seven miles, including the two hours I lost m picking up the track again. Stopped an hour at the hut; started again and then for three miles through the bush the track was in splendid walking order. It is like going through a bush park. The trees are of large size, and the bird life pretty frequent. Plenty of wild pigeons about here. Trade now leaves the bush and goes over tlie dry river bed of the Haast. These parts are the worst of the lot, being very hard and tiring to walk on. Alter a mile or so of this one soon gets

“ full up ”of it. Night was now coming 1 on, and being fifteen to twenty miles from the Haast River mouth there was no option, but to camp in the bush. Found a fairly decent spot under a large rock, made a fem bed, boiled the billy, had a largefir© going, and felt all serene. When 1 tried to sleep the mosquitoes came around, and didn’t they bite ? I have had “goes” with “skeeters” in the swamps of North Queensland, where they are reckoned bad, but never did they bite and buzz like those Haast Valley fellows. Gould not sleep, so was up before daybreak, and had breakfast on tea—had eaten all the other “tucker.” More bush track and river bed again; more creeks, one pretty rough, called the Roaring Swine, and the —Flat Bush Country—is reached. The flats here, which are open, are covered with tutn higher than a man’s head, and are difficult to get through. The bush flats axe ewampy, and fluid is much in evidence, as cattle roam in the bush and generally get on the track. I was now, I reckoned, a few miles from the mouth of the- Haast River, and as the weather was looking a bit “dickey” I endeavored to get a “move on.” It was no use—more flats, plenty of mud, and bush all the time. The rain now came down—a real West Coast rain—and for two hours there was nothing for it bat to walk along the track, push the bike, and take the rain as it came. About 2 p.m. I came to Cron’s Homestead at the Haast River mouth, and, soaked to the skin, I appreciated something to eat and drink, which was readily obtainable. A warm fire, some dry clothes, and things soon all right. About a mile from Cron’s is the ocean, so in going from Dunedin to the Haast mouth the South Island is crossed completely. There axe no habitations of any settlers on the track seven miles after leaving Makarore until Cron’s is reached, so that one meets with no “new faces ” when going through. The West Coast part of the Haast is covered with bush dorwn to the ocean. There are a few farmers, who go in for rearing cattle, mostly for the Hokitika market. These cattle are sometimes “ overloaded ” up there, and at other times are sent up on a small steamer, which calls down the coast every two months. The Haast Pass track was formerly used to send cattle through to Otago, but cattle are not often sent over now, as it does not pay to do so. The track at present is used by horsemen and a few people on foot. Very few cyclists have gone over. The handful of people settled within a few miles of the Haast mouth—there are only about five families in all—are, to a great extent, shut out of the world, I question if there are any more isolated in Now Zealand. Going north the nearest family to Cron’s is Condon’s, fifty miles from Cron’s. The telephone is linked up now to all the settlers’ houses, which are also post and telegraph_ offices. The line runs south to Okura, eight miles from Crons. When I write “all the settlers’ houses” I mean all on the track to the north, which works out seven settlers along a distance of over 100 miles. There is no telephone wire over the Haast Pass track. If asked

—ls the Haast Pass Track Worth Going Over ?

I say certainly. It is out of the common routes, and there are plenty of tree ferns all along the track. The old dried ferns make excellent beds and blankets, so that if one cannot strike the huts, a good bed may be cheaply made up. Even if it is raining', these dried ferns are generally protected bv the green ferns growing on the trees. The scenery viewed in the Haast Pass and down the Haast Valley is very good, and well worth seeing. I should class it as better than tho Buller or the Otira Gorges, but it is not so good as the scenery on the Milford track, and there is nothing in the Haast Pass to compare with the view from the top of M’Kinnon’s Pass (Milford track). I had not much riding on the Haast track, so was looking forward to having a fair amount of riding on the road to Hokitika. Found out I was wrong. For 100 miles north there was only a. horse track. This proved to be worse than the Haast track, the reason being the mud on the track and the rivers and creeks to cross. Leaving Crows at eight o’clock one morniug, I was put over the Haast River close to its mouth in a boat. A walk of a mile or so over the shingle, and I found I could not cross to the other side, as a spring tide at its full had backed up a backwash, and although I stripped and- swam over, there was no chance of taking the bike, so I had to come back and wait four hours till the tide went down, and I crossed in water up to the waist. This four-hour wait was not appreciated. Track now goes through bush and sand, and is hard walking. After three miles of this, a walk over the sand brings one on to the sea beach. The sand is hard, and if the tide is out a fine ride can be had. Used the bike three miles here; more sand, and then into the bush again; over shingle, river beds, past lagoons, and an old flax-mill. Why it was ever put here one cannot understand, because it would be so hard to get the finished article to market. Over the Maori Riverona bridge, and I bring up at Copper Creek, twelve miles from Crows. Meet the mailman going south on horseback. He was the first man I had seen on the track since leaving Makarore. _ The track, now crosses a range of mountains at a place called the —Maori Saddle.— It is eight miles from Copper Creek to tlie top ot the saddle, every step of which has to be walked. The grade is not steep, but the track is rough, and many creeks are crossed. The saddle is close on 2,000 ft high. On tho road up to the top some excellent scenery is to be seen. There are banks and faces of rock at the sides in places on the track where the rock is carpeted with excessively thick moss. It feels like a. thick carpet, and is of a red and green color. In many places are these moss carpets to be seen. At one place 1 opined the height to be 60ft and width about 40ft. If the natural colors could be transferred to post cards, the latter would sell in large numbers, if with views on them of_ the moss carpets. When within a mile of the top, down came the rain, and I was soaked again in no time. I afterwards learnt that “ it always rains cn the Maori Saddle. ’ At the top of the saddle is an iron hut, so I camped in this for the night. Firewood is in abundance, as the track is in the bush all the time. Soon had a fire going, and got dry. In the meantime the rain came down in torrents. In the morning the weather broke fine, and I started off early. The track now goes along the saddle, and follows the gullies for five miles. The weather being clear, the views were magnificent. Many waterfalls are here, and the ocean is easily seen far beyond the forest-clad ranges. The creeks were high and swollen by the previous heavy rain, and the track was wet and muddy. After the five miles are passed the track descends pretty steeply for seven miles to the Blue River. The track during these seven miles is pretty rough. Before getting to the Blue-River the rain came on again, and I was again soaked. At the Blue River is a fine iron hut. Soon had a fire on, got dry, but had to stay here on account of the rain. The scenery around here is rather fine. This river, being liable to sudden floods, is bridged lor stock, and a wire bridge is also here for foot passengers. Next day being fine, started off early ; track no good for cycling except about half a mile. Passed a rather pretty lake called Paringa. Ten miles from the Blue River the Paringa River is She was “up”, and very milky, as she comes from glaciers up the valley. I met a horseman, who put me and my belongings over. This was the second horsemap I had seen since leaving Makarore—i.e,, on the track, close on, now' 106 miles. From the ’ Paringa to the Mahitabi River—is ten miles. The track is level, throuMi bush, and rough. Rode about three miles of it. On the north side of the Mahitabi is Condon’s, the homestead of a settler there. I tried to ford the Mahitabi; which was “ up,” and very cold, being glaeier-fed. The water being too deep, I had to strip and, taking the wrong ford, I had to swim the deepest half of the river, which was about oft deep and running. verv swift. However, I hunted up a man and a horse, and we soon got my clothes and bike over. ■ Where the horseman crossed it was about 4ft deep. At this place— Condon’s—is the first family oorth of Crows

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—fifty miles away. The river flat is wide and stony. There are a few sheep kept on the sandy river flats here, but down south the settlers go in only for cattle. The next place is Jacobs River, nine miles from Condon’s. Track for the first three miles through a splendid forest, then on to the sea beach for two miles, over dry sand for a mile, and three miles through sandy soil, and bush for the rest of the way. At Jacobs River there is quite a town—that is, for these parts. There are four houses and a school. This place, called in Maori “ Makawhio,” is settled by a few Maoris. The schoolmaster, a Mr Bannister, is married to a Maori lady, and a very interesting gentleman he is, brim full of stories of the coast in its early days. —From Jacob’s River to Scott’s, — the next stage, is eleven miles. I telephoned to Mr Scott to meet me at the river and put me over on a horse. These eleven miles of track are also through bush and flat, with plenty of mud and shingle ; very little riding to be done. At about five miles from Jacob’s River, which is crossed by a wire footbridge, I felt the earthquake which was felt in March last. Ihe trees in the bush shook violently. At Scott’s the Karangarna River has to be crossed. This river is also of glacier origin, and milky in color. This crossing was negotiated on horseback, the river being in two large streams, and the bed about 1 5 miles wide. From

—Scott’s to Cook’s River,— ten miles, is the nest stage, more bush and a couple of stony river beds to cross, but in these ten miles J got more “ bike riding” than I had had so far on the track. About five miles of this track was rideable. Cook’s River has a very wide river bed. The Fox River joins in with it, and together they make a good show of water. Cook’s River is crossed on horseback, as there are many branches, and the water is icy cold. The Fox River comes out of the Fox glacier just four miles away, and is also crossed on horseback. At the north side of the river there is a settler who provides horses and shows the fords. He can be telephoned to, and will meet anyone at the south side if given due notice, and the charge is Is per head. I believe the Government also give a subsidy annually. From the Cook’s river-bed some magnificent views of Mount Cook can be obtained. There is no part where Mount Cook can be seen to better advantage. Anyone in the post card business could get dozens of original views of mountains and glaciers in the vicinity of Cook’s River. A track and a fairly rideable road of five guiles brings the traveller to the homestead of Mr Fred Williams; who will “put up” anyone desirous of staying a day or two. His house is very convenient, being only about two miles from the well-known Fox glacier. A track, in excellent order, cut through the bush leads up almost to the face of this glacier. A scramble to the left over some loose rocks and through some scrub—about half an hour's easy work—-and one is on the clear ice of the glacier. The Fox River boils from under the face of the glacier, and the water is exceedingly cold. The next stage of the track (seventeen miles) is to the —Waiau River, — and this is one of the “stiff bits.” Still going through the bush, the track goes uphill for about four miles—all walking, no riding. Prom the top of the range a glorious view of the Cook’s River plains is to be obtained. Then a sharp descent takes the track to the Waikukupa River. In the writer’s opinion, this river is the worst one to ford on the track. The water is milky, icy cold, and runs very swift. The bottom is composed of big boulders, and it is difficult to ford on foot. However, there is no bridge and no horse, so one has to ford it or stop on one side. The water was waist-deep the day I crossed, and I wasn’t sorry when I got over, as it was getting on the “ cold side.” 'this river is marked for bridging, as the least flood makes it dangerous. Another long walk up hill about three miles, then a descent of about two miles, which, however, cannot be ridden, on account of creeks and overgrowth on the track, and the track comes to the Oamaru River, a clear stream, easily forded, water kneedeep. Two miles of track, chiefly downmil, and a cart road, which-is being made over these ranges, is met with. It will be years before the road gets to Cook’s River, but at present it is stuck up for labor! Two men were filling in a turning, which, by the look of it, would take the labor of two men alone for six months. It is two miles downhill to the Waiau Flat, and the wide road gives one a good chance to ride. At the bottom more river beds stones, and shingle, then a rideable flat to the Waiau footbridge. This bride is the -ongest wire footbridge on the track. The Waiau River is not fordable on foot, and a £ iac lor-fed, being the water from the Franz Joseph glacier. Half a mile over the footbridge is Batson’s Hotel, the first licensed house met with since leaving Pembroke. Lake Wanaka, the distance being about 190 miles. Mr Batson is an old Hunedmite. The celebrated —Franz Joseph Glacier—is about 2J, miles from Batson’s. An excellent track leads up to an iron hut. erected by the Government, to the right! hand side of the glacier, and a track leads to the left-hand side, over a wire footbridge over the Waiau River, and through the bush right on to the clear ice of the glacier. Some expense has been incurred m making this left-hand track. It is cut out of the solid rock in parte, and another wire footondge spans a nasty gully, dose to the glacier. Several wire ropes hanging over small cliffs have been broken by the glacier moving forward. The wire ropes assisted visitors to descend the cliffs' How, at present, the ice is level with the cliffs, and only the tops of the wire ropes are to be seen. This glacier is well worth coming a long way to see. Near the glacier are warm water springs. The track from South Westland has now ended. To Hokitika, ninety miles from Waiau is a vehicle road. It is ten miles to the Waiau Forks through a fairly rough road, interspersed with creeks and river beds. One river, the Totara, knee-deep, is crossed. Still all bush, but along, the sides of tho road the blackberry is growing wholesale. In fact, all over the West Coast road up to Hokitika tins nuisance is spreading ail over tho place Fiv-> miles from the Waiau Forks is Okarito" the latter a decayed old raining township on the sea coast; ten miles from the Forks to Gunn’s ferry is the next stage. Lake Mapounka as passed, and looks very pretty from the road. The road is fairly good to Gunns ferry, and is partly tlnough open and cleared land, and over the usual river beds and streams. One river, the Waitangi, has a wide shingle bed, with tnear water over the knees when it is low. . roa ® 5 065 oo to Hende’s ferry, at the

Big Wanganui, seventeen miles from Gimn’s ferry. The* . —Hercules Saddle.— | is crossed, it being a fairly good up-hill climb; and the descent on the other side, | over a good road, is stopped by the little Wanganui River. This river has the usnal wide river bed, but was low, not being up to the waist, when I crossed it. The least rain pais this river up, so -it is always risky lor people on foot. Several miles of -. shingle road not ndeable brings the Wanganui River in sight, 'ibis river is the largest, nest to the Haast, which is crossed j It is crossed in a boat, being too large and ! swift to be forded. The usual wide ned 's - again in evidence. The road ,is now get- 1 ting better, being much more used by j traffic. To Ross is thirty miles, through * the bush; several, creeks and water courses i are crossed, but the road, on the whole, is good. Thirteen miles from Ross, again the rain came down, and another “soaking” was the result. What with mud and water, “biking” that evening was “no catch.” Nino miles from Ross a hotel was sighted, so that night past that hotel I did not go. Nest day was fine, and I rode to Ross, finding the roads fairly good, and from Ross - to Hokitika (twenty miles) this road, mostly through bush, is also good. On to Greymouth, back to Kumara, and on to Otira the roads are good. From Otira to Broken River the road part of the way keeps dose to the —Midland Railway Works.— The Government sajr that the LawrenceRoxbnrgh Railway, if built, will not pay. How, in the name of fortune, are they going to make the Midland Railway to the Cass pay? From Broken River to the Cass is about fifteen or sixteen miles, and along this route there is absolutely no settlement whatever. There are two sheep runs. Also, judging the speed at which the works are progressing, the whole “show” is of the nature of an “ old men’s home.” Public money is being wasted on this lino in a deplorable manner. If any reader thinks that I am exaggerating,* let him go and see for himself. But this is a Canterbury line. I question if this Broken River-Cass section will get fifty truckloads of genuine loading a year; this is not allowing for Government stores, railway coal, etc. The West Coast passtfiger traffic, whicu is not very much after all, will save these fifteen or sixteen miles coaching. From the Haast Pass to the Waiau there are no hotels. The settlers along the track will put anyone up, and tlie charges are reasonable. The tracks are well defined, but rough. ’ —No Place for a ’‘Bike.”— Anyone wishing for a good outing and prepared for a little “roughing It,” can have a fine experience of river," bush, glacier, and mountain scenery by taking this trip. But if a bicycle is taken, for the most part of the way it will be a companion and not much use for riding. I was told all along the track I was the first to come through the whole distance with a bicycle.