GARDENING FOR THE WEEK.

Evening Star, Issue 14036, 17 April 1909, Page 9

GARDENING FOR THE WEEK.

[We have completed arrangements with a well-known gardener to conduct a weekly letter. Our contributor will be glad to answer questions, which must be received not later than Tuesday of each week,] —The Bose Garden.— As the planting season is now .upon us, or nearly so, I propose touching on various points of rose culture at different periods, and as this column is limited in space, I will take these points of culture separately, this week dealing with the preparation of the soil. The first thing to be considered m any attempt at rose-growing is the soil. Roses do best ip a heavy, deep, fatty soil or loam, and they do worst in a poor, dry, sandy soil. Resting on rock or gravel, the preparation of the former must be quite the reverse of the latter, as stiff soils must be made open and sandy soils stiff, and in either case Ijme should be used, as it tends to lighten stiff ground and stiffen sandy ground. This seems strange, but it is true nevertheless. Let us suppose we have a heavy clayey soil. All that the land wants is draining, trenching, and manuring. If the roses are to be planted in a bed on a lawn, the soil should be thrown out 2ft or 3ft deep; then put in some broken bricks or stones; then cut some grassy turf, and turn this grass side down over the stones, but there must be a drain to carry awaj.Ahe water. Now, we will suppose you have the drainage complete. Then place over this the lumpy or rough parts, then a layer of good rich manure, and on top a foot or more of soil. It will be better, if possible, to get fresh material —the top spit of some grass land if it be poor, heavy ground, where no grass has been growing. This top spit should be good. With this mix in lime rubbish from an old building and any burnt soil and wood ashes you can get, and a good dusting of bone meal, mixing the whole and replacing it. Raise the bed 6in above the level, to allow for it settling down, and in a fortnight or three weeks it will be ready for planting. This seems a lot of trouble, but if well done a great amount of pleasure will be had from vour flowers. ’

\Y-’ itli a piece of land of any extent trenching must be done. The first thing, then, to do is to dig out a strip across the one end 2ft wide and Ift deep, and wheel to the far end; then dig up the bottom at least another foot: place over this a good layer of manure; lay the line and mark out another strip the same width as the former, and with the top spit of this turn over on to the preceding trench, and as the work proceeds work jn some old lime rubbish, wood ashes, or road scrapings similar to that for the bed previously mentioned.

Again, if the ground be very light and sandy, use a liberal supply of fresh lime, spreading this on the ground after it is trenched, and allow it to slacken itself; then, work it in with a fork or heavy hoe, and when trenching put old cow manure, if possible, in place of the ordinary stable manure, the cow manure being of"a much Sllhgi nature, and, if procurable, niix in some clayey soil with the top spit. Wood ashes will also be found beneficial in this kind of soil, as in the stiffer kind. —Chrysanthemums.— Chrysanthemums will require a lot o{ attention just now in watering, feeding and watching for the leaf maggot. Handpicking is the only efficacious remedy I know of, but an occasional fine spraying with a teaspoonful of nicotiside in "one quart of water is a very good preventive. All buds should be taken by now, and those plants that have been set early and show color should be shifted into the greenhouse or otherwise protected, such as puting under a canvas covering. They will require a considerable amount of feeding just now, though it is better to give it n eak and often than too strong at one time, and to finish “ mums ” properly they should get one or two doses of artificial manuie, such as Clay’s fertiliser, Ethenic guano, or sulphate of ammonia. You must be very careful with the latter-not more than one tablespoonful in 4gal of weakliquid manure. Do not give them sulpnate of ammonia more than about twice m a season, and after the buds are set. ‘ —The Vegetable Garden.— The principal work in this department from now on will be in digging, trenching, hoem-and keeping things clean generally, aso luting potatoes as they ripen and storing. the accumulation of rubbish, especially such things as dead cabbie leaves is specially to be guarded against,°not only for ones own welfare, but one’s also, as cabbage leaves, if allowed to remain m heaps, become offensive. All decayinr, refuse that can be put into trenches .should be got out of eight as soon as pcssibie to rot and give back to the srround uhat has been taken from it. This Should .l e ln ' be bottom of the trenches, and a the ground be of a stiff, clayey nature put some good manure on this, and turn he soil on top, leaving it as rough as possible for the weather to operate on. But if the ground be of a very light nature, do not put the manure in now, but keep it until the spring, and dig it in then this being much better for all crops, as it retains the moisture and feeds the plants better in the following season. However, as I said, where the ground is stiff put the manure in at once, and if possible give a- coat of lime on the surface, but do not dig it m with the manure.

Earth up celery, if it has not already been done. Leeks will also want attention by way of moulding. Continue to plant lettuce, and make a final sowing in a nice warm spot or in a frame. Plant also cabbage and cauliflower for cutting in the spring. °

Rhubarb, where required for forcing in tlm spring, should be taken up now and laid aside in a cool, dry place, and as much, as possible to the weather. It is not necessary to dig up the rhubarb bed to get roots, but dig or chop off good large crowns or pieces off the side of your old plants, and fill in with some soil.' —The Flower Garden.— When the summer bedding plants are cleared, wallflowers may be usefully employed to fill up beds with green foliage for winter; then in spring they will flower freely, and their color and fragrance w ll be especially welcome. Plant also narcissus, crocus, R.-man hyacinth, etc. The tuberous-rooted anemones may be- planted from April until July, and by successive planting a continuous supply of flowers wdl be obtained well into'the snrimn splendid flowers can be grown in ordinarygarden beds by deep digging and a liberal dressing of old cow manure, if procurable, or, if not, use other manures, yerv well rotted. —The Fruit Garden.— .The vinery should have now abundance of ventilation both night and day. A great deal depends upon the thorough and early ripening off of the canes whether tie future crops he a success or failure, for rest assured the crops will not be a great success with unripe wood. The bottom ventilators may be closed at night until the fruit be gathered. Most kinds of apples and pears will be fit for gathering in this month, and should be gathered when they part readily from the spur upon being lifted with the hand. Caro should bo talcon not to bruise the fruit. It is covered with a sort of bloom or waxy matter, which, ought not to be rubbed off. It always irritates me when I see fine apples and other fruit polished up with a cloth. To my mind, it- takes away the beauty of the fruit, and it is a wellknown fact that it does not keep so well as when the bloom is left on. When picked it should be stored in a cool and not too airy a plane, where frost cannot touch them. H.C.