THE HOME GARDEN

Evening Post, Volume CXXXV, Issue 150, 26 June 1943, Page 7

THE HOME GARDEN

ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS (By "Sandy.") In the garden calendar there is a time for planting spring flowering bulbs, a time for planting potatoes, a time for planting dahlias; in fact, there is a season for all the major items that go to make up a garden. The present is the time when ornamental shrubs claim attention. ' Most gardens contain shrubs or trees of some kind either for effect or titility, and it is a fact that shrub planting is always going on even with those who have a fair collection already. Replacements have to be made by some, a place has to be made for some plant that has a special appeal, something new must be added to the collection, and so it seems that every owner of a garden must sooner or later have shrubs of different kinds to handle. This is interesting work, for naturally to set them off properly somewhat different treatment has to be accorded to each type. Quite apart from the fact that some do better in certain positions in the garden than they would do in others, success or failure is determined by the way the plant is actually set in the ground. Most evergreens come done up in a way which is described as "balled," which means that the roots are enclosed in soil held firmly about them with scrim or similar material. Other plants, mainly deciduous, ones, have their roots covered with damp straw, either singly or in bundles, and others are in paper pots, having been grown «n ordinary clay pots and just transferred to the paper variety for convenience in handling. The foregoing are the types referred to that require, differing methods of handling when, transplanting to their permanent positions in the.garden. The "balled" plant-is' perhaps the easiest to handle—in the hands of the amateur anyway—for little, more than, ordinary care is needed in planting it. It has been "balled" for two reasons, that it would be harmful for the roots of that particular■ plant to be exposed, and secondly that the root system is brittle. Such plants should be planted without the soil about the roots being disturbed. ' Remove the scrim, but plant the ball intact. It is wise, especially when the soil is dry, to soak the plant before setting it. Later in the season, when the scrim about the roots is partially decayed and new roots are protruding throush it, the best plan is to set the plant without removing the scrim, first soaking it .and cutting through the ties. The deciduous plant that comes "unballed,!' that is without soil about its roots, requires more preparation for planting. The heavy roots that.have been damaged during lifting operations should be .cut bacjt.to remove,the damaged ends. "A.-root, when cut ; cleanly with aktlife or; secateurs will quickly callous and foVm new rootlets from its extremity,' whereas if left ragged it will rot and hinder the establishment of the.plant. The.tops of such plants should; be reduced in height to restore in a measure the balance between top and root. This is understood by most where fruit trees or roses are concerned, ._ but is frequently neglected with other deciduous ornamentals, such, as viburnums or Forsythias. The correct depth at which to plant is sometimes a puzzle, but a safe' guide is to have the uppermost fibrous roots some three, inches below the surface. The roots should be so placed in the soil that they assume a natural growing position, pointing outwards and downwards. It takes some time to. do this carefully with a big plant, but the time spent brings its reward in the.form of quick and robust growth. If roots are bundled together by carelessness in planting the plant is seriously handicapped from the s^art; in fact it may never grow, satisfactorily. . - The pot-grown plant,-and there are many that are' grown this way, calls for somewhat different treatment from the foregoing. These plants when well established will be found to have their roots somewhat cramped through running around the inside, of the pot in which they were grown. The main rootgt <sh6uld be untwined a little and directed outwards into the soil that is returned to the hole that has been prepared; ior them.. Strong rooting subjects such as gums or wattles should. be treated in this way "but others -that: have.!'little' root showing on the outside, of the ball can be planted without being disturbed. Whatever the- plant may be, or whatever the type, firm planting must always-be carried out, remembering that the roots, t0... be able to resume their functions, must be in close contact' with the soil. For . successful transplanting the soil must be in a workable condition; the work cannot be carried out as it should be when the ground is excessively? wet.