London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 100, 30 April 1938, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

I Specially Written for "The Port."

February 18.

Arrangements for the coming season include many afternoon parties, thus following the lead of the King and Queen, who are planning two such functions next month. These parties are to be on informal lines and wili resemble those given by King George V and Queen Mary at this time of the year, when the latter used to move about amongst her guests, hatless, and with that gracious friendliness that has so endeared her to everyone.

Many of the new afternoon modes now showing, in Paris and London have been chosen for these occasions, thus emphasising the importance of afternoon clothes as .distinct from morning suits, etc. But do not imagine these clothes' are fussy—rather, distinguished by the material used, with some clever details as to drapery or trimming, but still looking simple.

Every sort of jersey is being used for these elaborately draped- bodices — still ■ keeping to the high waist, from which fall skirts that, although seemingly straight when static, have a great deal of concealed fullness in front in I movement. Jersey dresses for young_ people in a stocking jersey have swathed busts, a dragged-in, corsetted waistline, and a voluminous skirt which spreads out full when walking. IMPORTANT BLOUSES. The infinite variety in blouses is worth a very special note. I have previously .mentioned the. tailored ones which emphasise the coat and waistcoat style as well as the neat little shirts with turn-over collars and buttoned fronts. Some of these'latter are worn under braces; others with corselet belts, and a great many are 4n woollen fabrics, or surah silk, the latter material staging a great comeback after years of oblivion.' But it is the more elaborate blouse that is attracting so much attention this year, by which I mean blouses that look simple but which are a mass of tucks or so intricately draped and pleated it is difficult to know how the mannequins get into them. Actually, these mystery blouses are usually cleverly zipped down the back or under the arm, etc., without disturbing the cut and set of the design.

I have sketched a very useful model that would compromise between elaboration and sports simplicity, and could be made in almost any material —jersey (either silk or wool) - being': the newest and most suitable fabric. The front buttoning gave it a tailored look, which was belied by the pastel colouring (pink) and the exquisite quality of the \silk jersey. This was shown with a black suit ensemble, lavishly trimmed with silver fox, small black cap and floating veil. Very much the smart town blouse, and yet copied in a useful brown jersey and worn with a beige and brown check suit, the style is ideal for a country outfit. My second sketch shows a sashed model with draped fullness over the bust. This type can be elaborated, with the draperies crossing and fastening under each arm, or fastening down the back, with a high neckline but no collar. Other blouses are finely tucked, the tucks making a V design over the front and back. Fine gauging all down the front, with the fullness spreading over the figure but still keeping to the fitted line is another blouse notion. The gaugings sometimes finish with "heading" ruffles which conceal the zip fastener. Others are put into a narrow band, which, in its turn, is decorated with groups of attractive buttons. In London skirts and blouses will be seen for street wear this spring. The same idea applies if you wear a

skirt and blouse under a short or long fur coat for your cold season. NEW BELTS WITH CHARMS. Narrow belts are a feature of many of the newest models. Some of the sporting ones suggest a dog's lead, being round and slipped through a metal ring and made of coloured leathers. Others in suede and twisted leather have four or five gilt charms hanging from them—an extension of the vogue for charm bracelets which is still popular. Medallions of two coloured leathers or suedes are also seen, the point of each medallion (diamond or leaf-shaped) just overlapping the other.

In .• the more elaborate dresses the "belt" may.be deeper and inserted into the dress, or of contrasting materials buttoned or laced outside the skirt of the dress. Metal belts for the moment, are not popular, but there is a good deal of metal "jewellery" in floral desighs Which seem to be part of an individual model. A gilt chain necklace in the form of wild roses is the sort of thing I mean, and this v/as the sole decoration of a black after-

noon dress, complete with black accessories and thin black stockings. Once more they are trying to bring in these fine black stockings. But they are up against an entire generation who does not remember .when thin black silk stockings were the smartest things tor wear, and a formidable opposition from the manufacturers of women's stockings. I think the success will- be very limited. E. RUTH.SIBLEY.