ATTACK ON EVEREST

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 10, 11 July 1936, Page 9

ATTACK ON EVEREST

LESSONS LEARNT

UNCERTAIN WEATHER FACTOR

DARJEELING, July 9.

' A copyright message from Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, leader of the Everest Expedition, ' says:— :

''The • outstanding lesson of Everest is unfortunately that meteorological science cannot forecast far ahead. Early indications were for normal conditions and that the monsoon could be expected between June 10 and 15. Actually it arrived on May 24. ■

"The final effort to ascend the west side of the main Rongbuk Glacier gives reason to believe that in good conditions this route is more feasible and safer than the east side of the North Col, but heavy snow prevented a complete examination.

"It has been an honour to serve this party, which ■ struggled to the bitter end against the heaviest of odds, risked all to ascertain the limits of what was possible, and then accepted defeat without bitterness. The climbers proved that the east side of the North Col must be left alone when the monsoon arrives, but that the west side is worth an attempt early in the next attack. Possibly it could be used even after the monsodn has begun. We must realise that in'some years, such as this, Everest is unapproachable. ' ■ . '

"Contact with another expedition appears to have engendered an even friendlier attitude among Tibetan officials and country people. We must not give up, but hope for permission to try again."