PARIS IN THE MIRROR

Evening Post, Volume CV, Issue 123, 26 May 1928, Page 14

PARIS IN THE MIRROR

(Specially Written for "The Post", by "Germainc.") PARIS, 2Sth March. LEST WE FORGET! • Good Friday ten years ago—29th March, 1918—was a day of everlasting shame to Germany. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, tho hour which the devout observe as tlie time of Christ's death, a shell from the enemy's longrange gun struck the venerable Saint Gervais Church, behind the Hotel de Ville, as the. first notes of tho organ filled the'knave. Seventy-five worshippers, mostly women and children, were killed, and ninety injured. The massive stones of one of tho main arches, and part of the knave crashed among the congregation, as the shell burst with deafening noise, and the slaughter was cruel, and the suffering terrible. ■ I happened to be at the Madeleine, listening to the ['Sept Paroles du Christ," and although you must cross the centro of Paris to get to Saint Gervais from the Madeleine, I don't think I shall ever forget the deafening noise. A number of English and American women, were among those who met death this day at the hands of German as'Sassins. Nothing can ever erase tho memory of such a. crime, nor can time heal the gaping wound torn in -the heart of the world by, a cold-blooded, calculated murder, wh'ich descrated the holy anniversary of Christ's sacrifice at tho hour when Christendom was bowed in sorrowing memory' of "the other great crime. FASHION WINDS BLOW IN A NUMBER OF NEW DIRECTIONS. This spring the mode seems to have struck a happy keynote. It has acquired a balance between the masculine tendency of a few seasons ago and the "fussy" fype of clothes which suit only -a few occasions, The woman who demands feminine-looking clothes, plus simplicity, will not find it difficult to choose her wardrobe. ' Last autumn

waistlines showed a sudden restlessness. They began to move up towards the natural position. This upset our ideas of proportion after wearing a low waistline for so long. This spring higher waistlines appear I to i be accepted. So we must adjust our eyes to the change. It undoubtedly suits some figures better. Many new models are cut adherent to tho hips, nnd some are cut with a long scarf end which can be swirled round to suit the wearer. THE CHARM OF YOUTH. An effect of youth and grace characterises the new frocks. There are those which, beginning with an inno-cent-looking round collar, continue in an "A"-shaped panel, and others with fluttering godets, creating uneven hem-lines. The new, simple-looking drapes, or raglan lines, are very fashionable, for the simple reason that they do more than any other lines to make "Fat and Forty" look "Sweet Sixteen." Afternoon and evening gowns are often draped. , Unusually fine in design arc the spirally-draped models. The uneven hem-line, a natural concomitant of draping, is seen. Wing panels distinguish many of the ovening gowns and coats, which arc often of magnificent lame or "frisson velours," fur-trimmed., . SKIRTS ARE GIVEN FULNESS IN MANY WAYS. . Skirts are given fullness this se-ason in many ways that contribute to the slender effect. ' i A number of daytime"*, dresses combine two or three kinds of pleating ' very effectively. A box-pleated skirt

and a finely-pleated bodico go to make one frock. A panel or line of pleating in a skirt more widely pleated appears in several models. Tho same idea, turned to the horizontal, appears in the tucking also. A dress of fine printed chiffon, fbr instance, ia worked in Jtueks, grading from very narrow at the shoulders to several inches wido at the hem-line. Graded stripes of harmonious colours appear in the sports sweaters, -which are worn with pleated skirts. OLD AND NEW. Everything that is old-fashioned is now-fashioned, to-day. The longer skirts are "in," together with tho high neck-line, and long, close-fitting sleeves. The normal waistline has introduced black patent leather bolts, ■girdling slender waists. Why, oven tho old-fashioned corsets are said to be coming in also! Shall we have to pinch ourselves into an 18-inch waist1? The dressmakers do not look quite so complacent as usual. They appear ■to be wondering if their little joke has not gone too far. Lace mittens .are scon here and there, also turn-down lace collars and long lace cuffs." .' FASHION HINTS. The scarf has taken on a now lease of life, forming part of tho frock. It is seen knotted loosely in the centro of the.back, or it may tie carelessly in a bow on the side of the neck or at the back, with long flowing ends. Box-pleats are being featured in every one of the new models, box-pleats of every width and length, employed singly or in groups, side-pleats, sunpleats, inverted pleats, and pleats made on special machines. Some houses taper pleated flounces from hem to hip; others employ pleated panels, or panels formed of pleated flounces. Narrow-pleated ruffles finish the edges of skirts and form the sleeves of printed crepe frocks and narrow pleated ruffles edge muslin collars and cuffs on severe little frocks of black reps or silk alpaca. COLOURS FOR THE SPRING SEASON. Colour is more controversial. From information taken from headquarters it appears that the twin greens —olive and almond —will be the predominant colours this spring, with a shade of sepia as second favourite. '' Happy colours, such as soft Persian reds and vivid blues, are favoured by one of the women dressmakers whose word is law in her own circle. Negligees and tea gowns are lavishly trimmed .with ostrich. A lovely peachcoloured velvet negligee, scon in a rue do la Paix "collection" has a loose jacket of peach georgette, edged all about with ostrich dyed to match a robe of jado-greon -satin, embroidered in gold, has long bell sleeves .finished with a band of bright yellow ostrich and two bands of the same on the side of the long plissee) vest of green georgette.