GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 19, 23 January 1926, Page 17

GARDENING NOTES

DORMANT DISEASE

DIFFICULTIES OF THE AMATEUR

MILDEW ON ONIONS.

(By "Practical.")

J.M. (Island Bay) asks the cause and cure of mildew on onions, which are grown in good, rich, black soil. This complaint is common during summer, and is usually treated by spraying with sulphide of potassium at a strength of loz to 4 gallons of water, applied with a fine spray. Like all fungoid diseases, mildew is rather difficult to get rid of once it becomes apparent, as it is then thoroughly established. .A more effective spray may be made by mixing the potassium with kerosene emulsion and applying in the same way. ~ The heavy rain-which fell last Friday night did much to save different '■ crops which were feeling the effects of the dry spell very badly. In spite of the drying winds which immediately: followed it,-the rain did incalculable good, and has given the plants a fresh lease of life. To conserve the moisture as far as possible loosen up the surface with the Dutch hoe around the plants and between the rows of vegetables. Disease and Garden Pests. Judging by the number of inquiries on this subject there seems to be. a marked increase in the amount of disease and pests of late years, and unless gardeners take systematic steps to cope with the trouble the raising of plants will become almost impossible. Nearly all plants are subject to either disease or inßect pests, and to cope with them effectively is a very difficult'and lengthy business. The most important thing is to deal, with the trouble in the early stages before it has spread to any great extent. There is no spray which is effective for all diseases, but as a general spray for fungoid diseases and insect pests lime sulphur is the most effective. Anuther very important point is to be sure that prorogation is done from healthy plants only. Even seed from diseased plants often carries the germ of disease, and by sowing such the gardener is perpetuating the trouble. In a small garden the actual cost of spraying is comparatively small, but many people feel that they cannot afford to purchase a spray outfit. As a matter of fact an effective spray may be purchased for a comparatively small outlay, arid with reasonable care may be, kept for years. An ordinary garden syringe is effective, but does cot usually give a fine sp>ay, and consequently the solution is wasted. Even an ordinary watering ear, wijth a hose, may be used upon low-growing subjects, but would be useless, of course, for trees or tall shrubs. After use the spray should be thoroughly rinsed out with clean water, as many of the chemical sprays cause corrosion. To sum up—remember that most of the diseases lie dormant on dead vegetation,, and that insect pests also take refuge in rubbish and where there is cover. Keep the garden free from rubbish, and burn up all 'dead branches and decayed fruit. As prevention is better than cure, spray any plants which, are particularly subject to.diseasft before the trouble appears, and keep a sharp look otit for the first sign of. unhealthiness,. and take immediate fcteps to ,eope;with it. The following sprays may be mentioned as suitable for the various,pests as stated: —

.Lime sulphur .for all mildew and fungoid diseases. Bordeaux or Burgundy mixtures may also be used for these. .

. Arsenate of lead; Hellebore powder, or Paris green for caterpillars and grubs.

Bed oil for all scale insects, woolly aphis, or mealy bug. Black leaf 40, or any, other nicotine spray for aphis, red spider, or fly.

Fungoid diseases are the more difficult to deal with as their presence is not apparent until the damage has been done. These are spread by means of spores which are dust-like and' easily carried on the wind. AH affected parts should be removed and burnt immediately the trouble is observed. . ■.',.' Flowering Annuals. Many of the early planted annuals have gone off owing to the dry spell, and may.be replaced with others, which, if given a chance to get established by not allowing them to get too dry at the roots, will give a wealth of bloom in the autumn. Some of the plants which have finished their first flowering, if cut back and encouraged by having the soil loosened up and a little bonedust worked in around them, will . send out new growths and fresh flower heads. To prolong the flowering season as much as possible, all spent blooms should be removed regularly before they have time to form seed. , Bemove and destroy any plants which show signs of mildew, which usually becomes troublesome when the dry weather sets in. Sweet peas, Iceland poppies, pansies, and many other annual plants are subject to this trouble, and do not pay for spraying, as the damage is done before the mildew is 1 apparent. ■ ■ ■ ■ Keep the surface soil loosened up and suppress'weeds, which run rapidly to seed at this season of the year. Stake and tie all tall growing plants systematically to avoid damage. Mulch surfacerrooted plants to keep the roots cool and moist. Bemove all dead foliage of narcissi and other bulbous plants, and lift any which have become too crowded. Belladonna lilies, brunsvigias, and merines have died down preparatory to sending up their flower heads, which appear without foliage. Bake oft the old foliage; and loosen the soil around the clumps. T.he dead foliage of all bulbs is best burnt and the ashes spread over the ground. Continue the layering of carnations, and keep the layered portion moderately moist. Keep a watch on chrysanthemums for black aphis, and at the first sign spray with a nicotine solution. These pests increase at an alarming rate, and soon cover all young tips of the shoots, sucking the sap and ruining the chances of good blooms. Among the Vegetables. Any vegetable plants being set out now should be puddled in to ensuse as little check to their growth as possible. Fill the hole with water before placing the plant in position, or if preferred the plant maj- be placed in the hole and water added before filling in the soil. • I Keep peas and beans picked regularly, as if allowed to remain on the plants bearing Will cease. Loosen tie sail fcttw.cca the. row of onions, i

and give soot water once a week after watering. Pumpkins and marrows are making rapid growth, which will require to be kept in check to prevent the garden being overgrown. The runners may be pegged back to encourage them to grow in the direction desired. The tips of the main runners should be nipped to encourage side growths. Lift potatoes as soon as ready, which may be known by the tops turning yellow. As crops are taken from the ground, plots so vacated should be dug over, manured, and sown down with a green crop of some kind. Given fair treatment, such crops should be ready for! digging in in the'autumn.

Loganberries, as soon as they have finished fruiting, may be cut back. Fruit will be borne next season upon the growths which are throwing up now, the old growths. being of little use for cropping. Tie in as many of the strong young growths as required after removing the old wood. One of the best known and oldest retail seed- businesses in Wellington has recently changed hands, Mr. R. Wall having. purchased from Messrs. F. Cooper, Ltd., their retail branch situated in Mercer street, where the business will be carried on as formerly. > ■ .