ASSAULT ON EVEREST

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 99, 21 January 1936, Page 9

ASSAULT ON EVEREST

Best Time For Attempt

PARTY’S CONCLUSION (Received January 20, 7.45 p.m.) London, January 20. Mr. E. E. Shiptoil, writing in the “Daily Telegraph,” and summing up the recent Everest reconnaissance, says that the expedition climbed 20 peaks all over 20,000 feet. The summits of only two bad previously been reached. He adds: During the descent of the north col of Everest we found that an enormous avalanche had recently broken away, largely along the line of our ascent, peeling off the whole face of the slope to a depth of six feet, which was an alarming discovery. Eventually, with other considerations, this decided us to have nothing further to do with the north col during the monsoon period. Later Wo established that tlie monsoon snow neither disappears not consolidates at altitudes above 23,000 feet in tlie region of Everest until tlie re-establishment of the winter gales. Thus we were able to decide that the only time that there would be a reasonable hope of reaching the summit of Everest would be during the exceedingly short interval between the end of the winter gales and the arrival of the monsoon, but in 1933 there was no such interval.

Mr. Shipton adds: When we reached tlie Rongbuk Glacier at the end of August we found that above 22,000 feet we were floundering waist-deep in soft snow, while above 23,000 feet tlie snow was a bottomless morass. Stoves did not function and we were unableieveu to melt snow for drinking purposes, although we later devised a burner that could be used in an atmospheric pressure equivalent to that at 35,000 feet. THIS YEAR’S ATTEMPT Personnel of Party The Mount Everest Committee recently completed its task of selecting the party which is to attempt the ascent of Mount Everest this year. The members will be: Hugh Uuttledge, leader (as in 1933). F. S. Smythe, who will be making Ills fourth expedition to the Himilaya. E. E. Shipton, a member of the 1933 expedition and famous for his successful exploration in 1934, when he and Mr. Tilman were the first to penetrate tlie great glacier basin of Narnia Devi. Like Mr. Smythe, he will be on his fourth Himalayan expedition, and is probably the best acclimatised man in tlie parly. F. Wyn Harris, Kenya Civil Service. He has a great climbing record, and went to about 28,000 feet in 1933. E. G. 11. Kcmpson, a master at Marlborough College. He has had long experience of both summer and winter mountaineering in the Alps, and was with Mr. Shipton last year in the Everest region.

Dr. C. B. Warren, formerly of St. Bartholomew’s Hospital. Another mountaineer of great experience, who was with Mr. Shipton last year. F. 11. L. Wigram, medical student, St. Thomas's Hospital. A member of Mr. Shipton’s party last year, and has a long record in the Alps. Lieut. J. M. L. Gavin, Royal Engineers He has never been to lhe Himalaya, but did extremely well in Mr. Smythe’s party in the Alps hist year. His medical report was so good that there is every hope that he will do well on the mountain. Lieut. P. R. Oliver. South Waziristan Scouts. First made a name by taking a small expedition of his own to the Himalaya in 1933, when lie made the second ascent of Trisul, 23,406 feet. Has also considerable experience in the Alps and was with Mr. Smythe last year. Major C. J. Morris, late 2/3rd Gurkha Rifles. Assistant transport officer on the Mount Everest Expedition of 1922, and will be chief transport officer this year. He knows the ropes, speaks Nepali perfectly and Tibetan well, and will devote himself exclusively to transport work. Dr. Noel Humphreys, who has climbed in Switzerland and East Africa, and recently returned after leading the expedition to Ellesmere Land. A man of proved endurance, with exceptional experience of medical work in out-of-the-way parts of tlie world. Lieut. W. R. Sniijth-Windhain, Royal Corps of Signals. One of tlie two wireless officers who accompanied the 1933 expedition. Though not normally a mountaineer, he reached Camp IV on that occasion. He will be in sole charge of wireless communications this year.

Mr. Ruttledge explains that this party is the strongest Hint could be got together for the purpose. Of the twelve: Nine have already been to Mount Everest; ten are known to be capable of climbing to at least 23.000 ft.; and eight are exnected to oe capable of going very high. The party hits been limited tn 12 to reduce the dilljculties of porterage on the glaciers and to simplify the problems-of control.