PRACTICAL GARDENING

Dominion, Volume 27, Issue 4, 29 September 1933, Page 2

PRACTICAL GARDENING

Helpful Hints for Amateur Growers

(By

“The Hoe”

Timely Topics For flowers in January sow| sweet peas now. *

Where, necessary, montbretias may be transferred to a new site. a » ♦

Give cinerarias soot water aud guano alternately onee a week, Half a teaspoonful of guano per plant is the correct dressing.

Never feed plants with liquid or artificial fertilisers when the soil is dry, as they might burn the roots. If there is any doubt, moisten soil with clear water before feeding.

The very delightful exhibit of pink violas named “Hazel White” on Mrs. Charles Haines’s novel stand at the Wellington Horticultural Spring Show on Wednesday last wag raised by Mr. Arthur White, of Otago.

' Any rambler roses planted last autumn or since will be best cut hard down now, to encourage strong growth for blooming next season, This seems a sacrifice at the time, but proves best in the long run. Ramblers pot pruned at the end of the summer should be attended to, replacing old wood with strong young canes as far as possible.

The Heather Garden The first thing to consider when choosing ft place for a |ieath garden is the nature of the soil. In a wild state heaths are sometimes found on soils containing lime, but it is not easy to establish a plantation on such land, and even when new soil Is brought in for the purpose the results are generally disappointing. They thrive excellently in sandy peat, but peat is not always necessary for their well-being, for they, will often grow in light or oven rather heavy loams, especially when leaf-mould, is.incorporated with the soli at planting time. Heavy and wet clays are unsuitable. / ' Heaths may be grown either in full sun or in partial shade. Hilly or rolling ground forms the most appropriate' foundation for an attractive heath garden, and on level grdund a judicious mixing of the tall and low-growing kinds gives an' undulated appearance, which is so essential to the best results. Pine trees help materially in the production of a natural scene, and so do rocks or even large stones. When heaths are planted ou the outskirts of the garden brooms, Scotch roses, common juniper and other British plants may be allowed to approach and mix with the heaths. Here the paths should be quite informal and may consist of short grass with tufts of heather or stepping-stones ip places. No elaborate preparation Of the ground is needed by heaths. The ground should be dug over, and 3in of decayed leaves or peat may be spread over the surface and lightly forked in. Should coarse weeds be present, they should be forked out carefully, for If they once become' mixed with tiie heaths they arc most difficult to eradicate, and if some other c£op can bo placed on the ground for a few months before the heaths are planted so much the better. Upon no account excavate beds 12in. or loin, deep and fill them with unmixed peat. When this is done the peat decays before the roots can take advantage of it, and then it acts as a poison. The most suitable soil of all is that formed by forking a little peat into light rather sandy loam.

The planting may be done at any time in open weather from early anttimn till late spring. Plants which have been put out In late spring require much attention lu watering if the weather should be very dry during their first summer. If the cultivator does not mind the ground being rather bare for a year l or two, plants may be placed 181 n. or 2ft. apart each way, and even that will be too close eventually. fcV the larger-growing kinds. ;

How to Grow Gladioli

The gladiolus is an easy plant to bring to perfection. It will grow and flower in almost any garden soli, but responds well to good treatment. The soil must bo dug over and enriched with decayed manure. Give an application of 4oz bonemeal or 6oz of superphosphate. To obtain a continuous display three subsequent plantings require to be made at intervals of fourteen days. ,

Always choose a sunny aspect, Gladioli will not succeed In shady places. In heavy soil the corms should be placed 2 to 3 inches (Jeep, and rest on a layer of silver sand. On sandy aud loamy soils 4 inches is the correct depth to plant. Planting in rows, I find, is the most convenient method as one is then able to keep the hoe going—a great aid to cultivation. Allow 18 inches between the rows and 6 to 8 from plant to plant. Dryness at the root must be avoided at all costs. In dry weather a thorough watering once a week will ensure healthy growth. Immediately the flower spikes show-signs, feeding must be commenced, A good proprietary fertiliser should be used once a week until the flower buds are on the point of bursting. Staking mi;st be attended to iu good time, to prevent the heavy flower spikes falling over. There are Innumerable varieties of many colours to choose from.

Native Flowers

Whole-hearted support for the suggestion of the Governor-General, Lord Bledisloe, that by experimental cultivation some New Zealand native flowers might be brought, to the magnificence of the daffodil, was expressed by Mr. J. A, McPherson, curator of the Botanic Gardens in Chrlstchufchr states the “Press.”

There were great opportunities, not so much with trees as with the New Zealand- herbaceous plants, said Mr. McPherson.’ Though tho flowers of these' were Oftefl beautiful, they were unprepossessing often being stnall and li'dden it: tWtoUag'o'/ /These* factors, which were often combined with a lack of striking colour, gave rlso to;a tendency on the part of the average gardener to neglect jjjem altogether.: But if by experimental cultivation it was possible to improve them there would be no doubt of their popularity. “As far back ag 1923, when I was in Paris, I was astonished at tho number Of varities French nurserymen had raised from the ordinary red koromiko (yeronicfi speeioaa),” he'’said. “One variety in particular—l think they called it Garibaldi—was really very fine. At the time I thought that if they could do thia with veronica it could quite easily be done with other New Zealand plants. “In South America they have an Ourisa (primrose) with scarlet flowers. All the New Zealand varieties have white flowers, but if we could get. into them, the colour of the South American variety we should have a magnificent flower. It might even excel the Chinese primulas. _ “If anyone took up the crossing of New Zealand plants with the idea of getting new colour and types of growth, be would have to take one section first, say, the veronicas or the ourisias, and patiently concentrate on that. Our little calceolaria (now called Jovellana) is a most interesting garden plant. If the size of the flower could be improved that would be a great sten toward popularising it. The New Zealand ranunculus or mountain Hlv also would repay experiment, aS would the clematis, some of the overseas which have a bigger and bettor leaf and more robust habit. “It will be no easy task, and It will demand a tremendous amount of patience,” Mr. McPherson continued. “A hundred and one technical difficulties about plant breeding will crop up. The person who will succeed will be tho one who works to attain a definite end. The day of haphazard crossing has gone by the board, for it has been too amply proved that such work is mete waste of time ”

To primula malacoides apply soot water every third day. Nothing else in tho way of stimulants is necessary.

Vegetable-Grower’s Corner In the vegetable garden liberal sowings may now be made, even In heavy clay soils, of carrots, parsnip, turpip, apd red beet. These will provide a standby of roots for use from about December. In coastal gardens, or in country gardens where water is available, another sowing may be made about the beginning of December, and these two sowings should provide an uninterrupted supply of roots into next winter. Shorthorn is still one of the most reliable varieties of carrots for present sowing, and, as the germination of seed is free, It should be thinly .sown. Parsnip seed does not retain its vitality over a long period, and seed should.be sown fairly thickly, using a variety such as Hollow Crown. Spinach, including silver beet,, may also bo liberally sown now for summer greens, aud a row of parsley sown near the house. The asparagus bed will re-i quire weeding, also the ground between rows of onions. Citrus trees may be> freely planted this month in favourable localities and established citrus trees may be pruned. Sow in October VEGETABLES.—In the open ground sow: Artichokes (globe), asparagus, beaus (French and butter), beet (»U varieties, including spinach beet), cabbage (Succession, Drumhead), carrot (all varieties), celery, sweet corn, endive, herbs, leeks, lettuce, mustard and :cress, onions (for salad and pickling), parsley, parsnip, peas (early varieties), radish, rhubarb, salsify, turnips (early varieties). Under frames or in the open toward end of month: Cape gooseberry, capsicum, cucumber, egg plant, melons, pumpkins, squash, tomato and tobacco.

FLOWER SEEDS.— Sow: Ageratuni, amaranthtis, antirrhinum, arctotis, asters, balsam, begonia, bracbycome, calendula, calllopsls, candytuft, carnations, celosla, chrysanthemums, coxcomb, convolvulus, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, didiscus, dimorphotheca, escholtzia, gaiHardla, gesnera,. geum, Globe amaranth', gypsophlla, heliotrope, helichrysum, hunuemannlft kochla, larkspur, lupin, marigold, mesembyranthemum, mignonette, nasturtium, petuna, phlox, physalis, poinciana, portulaca, rhodnnthe, salpiglossis, salvia, scabious, statice, sunflower, verbena, and zinnia. CLDIBING PLANTS.— Sow: Arlstolochia, Bignonnia tweedjana, Cardiospermum, Cobaea scandens, convolvulus, delichos. gourds, ipomoea, Kudzu vine, Mandeyilla, Manrandia, Mina lobata, passion vine, Phaesolus solanum, Tacsonia thunbergia, Tropaeolum canariensis.

PLANT OUT.— Citrus (all types), passion fruit, perennial' phlox, salvia, pentstemong, pelargoniums, chrysanthemums, tree begonias, begonias (semperllorens), gerberas. agapantbus, dahlia, gladioli, canna, gloxinia, tigrids, and raiotta.

Garden Fertilisers Many who take a pride iu their gardens Vvlll find tlic following information about fertilisers of great practical value:— Both bonedust and bone manure (which are two distinct fertilisers) are excellent phosphate manures for flower garden use. It is well to remember, however, that agricultural experts generally consider this is an expensive way to buy phosphate, since it Is their opinion that mineral superphosphate does the-same work at a great saving In cost. ■ Well-cultivated garden soil ; rarely lacks potash; but it needs lime to unlock the potash for use. Lime before manuring should bo the Invariable rule. It: is ''desirable to apply It to the ground gome weeks before the manure.-. -The# 'should never be put ih together. ; / Potash is specially necessary to the development:of starch And sugar-pro-ducing plants. Potatoes,/beets, and all kinds of fruit trees cannot thrive without it. ' ■ Lime or chalk dressings should be given to garden plots btffore applying potash, since the latter "is valuable only when the soil contains the constituents necessary for'converting the Commercial • potash into ■ carbonate of potash. Flowers in Winter ’. . ... ’ . ' • ■ Many amateurs who chanced to see ft bod of helleboruS (also known as Christmas and Lenten roses) in flower a month or so ago in a suburban garden were charmed by the delicate beauty of these old-fashioned flowers. Ilelleborus are hardy poreflhlals, which bloom iu late winter ahd early spring.

Christmas roses may be classed in three groups according, to colourwhite, green, and rose-purple. The white ones come first, then the green and the rose-purple. All kinds thrive in ordinary garden soil, but prepared soil is preferable. They like good fibrous loam, well-decayed manure, peat and sand, and good drainage; it is as .well to get the soil in good condition before planting. They like a sheltered spot and will do well In partial shade. Those that bloom best with us are in front of n shrubbery and face north. Some of the plants have as many as fifty blossoms on them. A group of well-blossoming plants is most effective; they arc excellent border flowers, and are useful for naturalising. Once they are planted do not disturb them again for at least seven years, then divide up and increase your bed. With regard to picking the blooms and bringing them into the house, it is as well to know the following treatment of them. Directly they are cut, and Immediately before putting them In water, the stalks should be split up 3 or 4 Inches, or according to their length, and plunged deep in water, so that the water comes right up to the flowers. They should remain in a cool place for some hours, or for a whole night, after which they can be arranged for the room required. Most of them are inclined to droop (It Is the habit of the plant in growth), but this can be remedied by arranging them with something stiff, like box or berberle. Wahlenbergias A correspondent writing to the "Gardeners’ Chronicle” on the subpect of YVahlenbergias offers some interesting comment on the genus. Among these are two distinct species native to Australia and New Zealand, namely, W. gracilis, Hie Austral bluebell, and W. saxieola, the bluebell of Otago. W. saxicola makes a valuable plant for shaded nooks on the rock garden in rather free soil, leaf-mould and sandy loam being preferred. In such a situation it proves itself hardy., and its beauty when allowed to establish itself thoroughly by seeding compares very favourably with that.of any other plant of similar habit in the campanula family. It is an erect-growing perennial, well under Iff. in height, and one of its chief and most useful characteristics is Hie length of time it continues in bloom: beginning in midsummer, it continues until the severe frosts of early winter set in. Its one drawback is its variability, 013011'68/ in the size as well as in the colour of the flowers, which in the type is pale lilac. W.., gracilis is perhaps an even more valtiable species, dwarfer than IV. saxicola, and differing it chiefly in its much-branded.stems, usually - prostrate, ,

with tarrow leaves. The large, terminal, solitary blue flowers usually stand erect, although taey uod when in the bud; and this species remains in bloom for a goodly period during summer. Like W. saxicola - the animal species seeds itself atajut freely, and one is never at a loss for planta

Among the Flowers The planning of material among summer annuals and the final planting of plants in the hardy mixed border must have thought and attention. Harmony of colour ijj the mixed flower border well repays some thought. Broad and simple effects in grouping and colour generally give the best effects, and harmony of colour is more easily obtained and more satisfying than contrasts. Blue delphiniums, grouped behind pink polyantfia roses; gladioli, variety Loveliness, or any of the salmon or blush-pink shades, with pink, perennial lupins, or pink perennial phlox. ’ The last of the root clumps of delphiniums, perennial lupins, and perennial phlox, should be planted out now, and position chosen . for chrysanthemums, Among hardy flower seeds which may pe sown are : blue butterfly delphiniums (flowering ■in February), cosmos (flowering late autumn), ten-week stocks, Giant Cham baud and Marguerite carnations, perennial lupins, asters, sweet alyssum, ..nasturtiums, antirrhinums, marigolds. Laying Turf Here are a few handy suggsetlons for the home gardener when repairing the lawn or laying sods for repairs:— The turf should be ot uniform thickness. One and a half inches is quite sufficient. If it Is to thrive in its new surroundings, the turf should be taken from a situation similar as ro* gards moisture, shade, and nature of soil ak that on which It is to be laid. Prepare the surface thoroughly and work some fertiliser into the soil, Transplanting from old to new site should be done as quickly as possible. Tamp the turf firmly on to its new bed to ensure effective rooting. Tq plpd tho joins together, rub a mixture of soil, compost, and seed into all cracks. Waiter generously for a few days. By following the foregoing instructions there is scant chance of failure. On Thinning Out It has been said that the man who makes two blades of grass grow where only one ha§ grown before is a benefactor, But there is danger when a gardener attempts to pfoduce three plants where there is actually only room for two. The average gardener will do good work in digging, fertilising, and planting, yet.will shy at thin-ning-out seedlings. Very few would allow 1 a thistle to grow in the carrot bed, but it is almost as hard for a earrot to be crowded by. another carrot as by a weed, A weed is, after all, a plant but of place.. So surplus carrots, or other plants, growing in a row, must also be : considered as plants out of place, and treated as ■weeds. ' ’ • ■ ■ " /. .■ -

It is,fallacious to tblbk that, by leaving plants close together, a bigger harvest will be secured.’ Experiments prove that the contrary, is the case. One large, fully-matured carrot,-which has had room to grow, is worth far more than two small, and'perhaps malformed ones. . .... .

Some plants will stand more crowding than. others, onions being a, good example. These will push'each, other to one side, and, to soma extent, tniikc room for themselves. But even here overcrowding may to a large extent spoil growth, and result In crops which give little-.-cause for- satisfaction. The correct time to thin out is as soon after the true leaves have appeared as possible. The work may be done gradually, many more than will be required being left at tbOtst thinning, and. the sturdiest seedlings being afterward selected. •’ i<

If such a method is adopted, there will be less chance of blanks, in the rows. After the plants are ’iVell established, a flniil thinning will weed out anything tba(; is not wantedt; Thinning Is best carried out when cloildy weather prevails, Otherwise" tile remaining plants may pass through a trying time. During tho process, the earth is loosened, and many of tho roots are dislodged. As a result of this disturbance the plants which are left require a day or two in .which tb recover. But it must be borne in mind that the work should be done as soon as the seedlings are tit to handle, even though watering is resorted to. THE WEEK’S WORK Flower Garden Plant out asters, antirrhinums, stocks, venidiums, arctotis, calendulas, nemesia, violas, and pansies. Sow all hardy annuals in open beds and borders. Don’t forget the new clarkias and larkspurs. Plant ericas, rhododendrons, and daphnes. Plant gladioli, sweet peas, and dahlias.., . Keep a sharp look-out for aphis (green fly). A solution of soapsuds makes an effective spray. The Vegetable Patch Plant another few rows of potatoes. Dress asparagus beds with coarse salt. Sow parsnips, carrots, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and turnips. Sow peas for succession. Plant out cubbilge, cauliflower, and lettuce. Work up the soil between potatoes. Sow seeds of pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers in prepared ground. Cover with glass until end of October. CORRESPONDENCE To Grow Celeriae.—Sow seeds 1 as for celery. In November and December the iplants should -bo planted out on level ground in moderately rich and rather sandy soil, In rows 24 inches apart and 18 inches between plants. Before planting. aU lateral shoots sad some of the outside leaves, likewise the lateral fibres on the root, must be removed. The plants should be planted shallow, the roots scarcely so deep lu the ground as they had formerly been. A-bundaocc of water should be supplied. Occasionally a little of the soil must be taken from' around the roots, and all lateral fibres removed. When nearly full grown the roots should be covered with soi.l to render them whiter. —“Celeriac,” Pahlatita.

Mildewed Forget-me-nots.—-These plants are frequently attacked by mildew when grown In clumps. The trouble will disappear If you dust the plants with flowers cf Sulphur. (E.K., Carterton.) Moving a Broom.—lt Is not wise to move brooms that have been planted three years er more, as they usually die. Your broom, which has grown too big for its present position, might break satisfactorily uext season If cut fairly hard back now, but as a general rule these plants do not like either pruning or transplanting when they are more than throe ytars old. Kcmovlng (inisn.— [Jme would only encourage grass growth in your shrubbery. The only way to remove coarse clumps is to fork, them out and burn them. (S.M., lower Hutt.l

Poultry Manure for Lnwn.—Dried poulfry manure can be applied to the lawn now or in early spring, after being mixed with t'irco times.its own -bulk of sifted soil and tae mixture broadcast thickly over the tirf. It should uever be used fresh from the poultry-house. Lot It stand for a few weeks In a drj- place before imlug. Speeding Up Walnut Trees. —Walnuts are slow to come tuto bearing, but you can hasten matters along with a dressing o 1 ’ basic elag Gib to the square yard), aaplied tn the autumn every other year. ("Amateur Orchard Ist.”)