GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 257, 26 July 1930, Page 32

GARDEN NOTES

The Gay Calendula

(fiy

“Kowhai.”)

Scotch marigolds (calendula) have always been a feature of cottage gardens, and for many years they were as dear to the amateur gardener as wallflowers, clove pinks, calceolarias, rosemary, old man (artemlscla), night-scented stocks, granny-bonnets (columbines), and many of the old favourites. With the advent of all the lovely new antirrhinums, long-spurred columbines (aquilegias), Oriental popples in many wonderful shades, godetias (Sutton’s double pink, and Lavender Gom), frilled sweet peas, etc., and jvlth the hybridists at work giving us new varieties every year, the homely marigold was almost lost sight of. Ohly for a few jears, however, for soon Calendula Prince of Orange, the old marigold marvellously Improved in size and colour, came to ns, and immediately became one of our most popular garden flowers. No longer was it the flower of cottage gardens. It took, and still takes, a prominent place in every garden scheme. Its wonderful rich orange colour, its hardiness, its generous blooming, and its lasting qualities, both in the garden and as a cut flower, all helped to establish it firmly. Gardeners soon realised the possibilities of the rich orange flowers in conjunction with many of our popular blue tines—delphiniums, anchusas, blue-bearded Irises, blue lupins, ageratum, linnm perenne, nigella, blue hemesia, nemophila, calmint, etc., and many charming colour schemes have been arranged. Quickly following come Ball’s improved Prince of Orange, a very large, very double flower. Now we have a form with quilled petals, also very double and very deep orange in colour—Radio. Campfire, one of the new calendulas, is also deep orange in colour, and has enormous flat blooms. As garden flowers and as cut flowers, calendulas are ideal. The plants quickly reach the flowering stage from seed-sow-mg, and provided old blooms are promptly removed they go on flowering without a break. Their growth is so strong that every now and again they must be cut back, almost to the ground. Thev immediately put forlh new shoots, anil go on flowering again. Well-dug, well-limed soil, a sunny position, and good drainage, are what the plants need.

Preparing for Spring Planting. ; During August, September, and early October, seedlings of every description are planted out. Toward the middle of next month, boxes of seedling annuals and perennials will be showing in everv seedshop, and amateur gardeners will be hard at work filling up their garden beds. When a selection is being made, some of the lovely autumn-flowering annuals such as French and African marigolds, petunias, zinnias, asters, and ageratum should not be forgotten, and spaces In the boils should be left for them. Now, while there is still time, and while garden beds are not too crowded, the soil should be well broken up and supplied with plant foods. It may not be possible to dig a whole bed for fear of damaging roots of established plants, but at least empty spaces where fresh seedling's are to be put in cau be attended to. Even between established plants it is often possible, with care, and by driving the spade in perpendicularly, to dig a hole about nine inches or a foot square, and eighteen inches deep, to take away the soil and to fill In with rich stuff from a . compost heap or with thoroughly decayed cow manure. The roots of plants in the neighbourhood soon find their way into such a well-enriched bit of ground, and the plants become strengthened for the coming flowering season. Wherever It is possible dig deeply, and work in well-decayed garden rubbish or manure, wood or rubbish fire ashes, and grit or coarse sand. Afterward lime may be freely sprinkled over the surface, and at planting time a little bouednst may be ,put in with the seedlings. Lime should not bo used at the same time as animal manure. By working in plenty of old manure or decayed garden rubbish, the soil is not only enriched, but it is also made capable of holding more moisture. This means a tremendous lot during the summer months, when the use of the garden hose is forbidden. Plants that are in gardens well stocked with humus have a distinct advantage. at such a time, for huinusy soli is capable of catching and conserving moisture. It an entirely new bed is being made, the soil should be prepared as soon as possible,

so that it may have time to settle before planting begins. It is advisable to work the ground two feet deep, keeping the top soil on top. Only when soil lias been deeply worked for several years Is it safe to bring the subsoil up. It is very important to do the work of preparing the ground thoroughly in the first instance, especially where shrubs are to be planted, because these remain iu the same place for many years. Heavy elay soils should be lightened by having sand, road grit, horse manure and decayed garden rubbish worked into the subsoil, as well as into the top soil. In light soil, cow or pig manure should be used instead of horse manure, and plenty of decayed leaves and wood ashes may be added. Topdress the soil with lime, provided animal manure was not dug iu. Where it was, lime should not be used for about six weeks.

By breaking up and enriching the subsoil, a greater mass of good soil containing available food is obtained. The more the food, the better the plants. Once a garden is permanently planted with shrubs or herbaceous plants, it should not be dug deeply with a spade or fork for fear of damaging roots. The surface sou should, however, be topdressed or mulched every year with well-decayed garden rubbish grass-clippings, or old manure, and it this is lightly forked in, when the beds are being put in order for the winter, at least six or nine inches of top-soil will be kept well stocked with humus. Protca.

I roteas are handsome evergreen shrubs and, when established, quite hardy. Just at first, sometimes, newly planted ones are tender, but if they have manuka brush bunt round them to protect them during their first winter, they become established, and can then stand a fair amount of wind and frost, provided it is not too severe. fl ,?, wer , B are curio| is and handsome, larg ? cactus flowers. Protea laeticolar has pink flowers: p. latifolia white flowers with a purplish black fringep. mellitera white flowers tinted pink and The ’ D r S’mannae has red flowers. of the shrubs is about six smallgardens ‘ 7 P ° SSIWe for tn P s. O u aS love a , snn(, - v soil, but will grow One HU poor ? oU , on a ■"• ell-drained slope, . on, Y they really -dislike, 1 1 ! ,a( : ls the cold, wet soil on Hat r., 1011 ' 11 . that holds moisture in winter. To plant them in such a place is fatal Iruning consists of cutting well back .Ifter flowering to keep the plants In shape. otnorTMse they soon become straggly.

Vegetables Those who managed to get all digging «hnni t t C J! Clun 7i fi . nlslic ‘l eari.v ln the month should have their soil in fine condition for sowing next month. Rain, wind, and frosts during this month have bad a splendid effect on ground that was deeply dug and left rough. Peas and broad beans that were well forward before real winter weather set in may need some protection. Manuka brush pushed in beside the plants, or even twiggy sticks, are a great help. It Is often necessary, too, to throw the soli between the rows toward the plants, thus making a little ditch between each row. The slight earthing up helps the plants, and the little ditches help to drain the soil. Vacant ground that holds moisture can be thrown into rough ridges to help drain and sweeten it. Early lettuces and mustard and cress may often be brought on on the sunny sheltered sides ot' such ridges. Later, when the soil is again levelle.il it is generally found to be friable and splendid for seed-sowing. In most gardens soil and conditions are too cold for sowing yet. There is uo gain In sowing seeds too early.