NINETY-MILE BEACHAND AFTER

Dominion, Volume 18, Issue 90, 11 January 1924, Page 8

NINETY-MILE BEACH—AND AFTER

HON. J. G. COATES IN THE FAR NORTH

PICTURESQUE BUT TRYING • JOURNEY

'After the "swallow flight” of the Hon. J. G. Coates ard party ever the Ninety-mile Beach on Monday, tho laborious return on the East Coast the following day offered almost too great a contrast. The shining boulevard) of the west beach was exchanged for a heavy sand tract, over which a fourhorse team barely won 23 miles in three hours. There were hours of heat and dust, of jolts and straining horses. Nor were the riders, including the Hon. J. G. Coates, Minister of Public Works and Railways, in much better plight. It was a day of contrasts, says the “New* Zealand Herald).” It started at 4.30 a.m., when rain was scudding in from the north-east to continue intermittently until midday. Through this the party made by buggy and horse power over a switchback road to the launch landing. The next six hours were spent on the Parenga Harbour or some of its many arms. Visits were paid! to Parenga, Tehapua, tiiid finally Tekao. At each place the Minister was met by requests for roads or for relief for the gumdiggers. The country is mainly occupied by members of the Aupori tribe. Its only contribution of importance to the national wealth is kauri gum. The value of Tehapua’s output alone is £2OOO monthly. Otherwise the country is poor, comprising waste on waste of sand dunes covered 1 y scrubby manuka and bracken. The exceptions are few and small. The poverty of the land! combined with a relaxing climate seem to have taught the inhabitants the practice.of the policy of "taihoa.” Indeed, no other philosophy would be of any avail. To-morrow is always soon enough. So Mr. Coates and his party found as they waited two hours for the Maori launch. When it did arrive it was at half-speed owing to a rope hobbling the propeller.

It was a long time Wore the crew decided to get into the water and cut away the rope. The Native who did wont in with his trousers on, but removed hie shirt after it was wet. At each stopping place, and there were several, there was a change of crews, an elaborate system of shifts whoso purpose remained a mystery. The official owner of the launch was given on his certificate as Lazarus, but he appeared, like his namesake, to have gone to another place. However exasperating the slowness of the harbour trip may have seemed it was relieved by the heartiness of the Natives’ welcome to Mr. Coates, as Minister of Native Affairs. At Tekao long before the launch grounded! m the mangrove swamp the motions of the dance of welcome could be espied near the Kianga. The women waved what appeared to be palms, but on closer acquaintance proved to be twigs of pinus insignis—surely a sorry exotic equivalent for waving fern fronds. Chief Erua Ihako welcomed the party in an address full of Native eloquence and imagery. The effect was not lost even when the words descended into colloquial English. "Protect us,” intoned the chief,, “from wrong and suffering. Protect us from gum speculators and land iharks.”

Through his interpreter, Mr. H. H. Bulneavis. the Minister made a dignified reply. He concluded: “A great deal rests with yourselves. We will do our part if you do yours.”

— After the korero the pnrtv were glad to break an eight-hours’ fast at the veritable banquet the Maoris had provided. If the viands had a fault it was that they were too tempting. It was after this that the terrible East Coast road was faced in stifling heat. A few gumdiggers and a few cattle aro all that this territory supports. Everyone was rejoiced therefore when the Houhora Harbour was reached, and a stay made for the right at the hotel.