Air N.Z. upgrades its wine service

Press, 24 October 1989, Page 10

Air N.Z. upgrades its wine service

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE I

Readers may remember that last month I wrote with some enthusiasm about the upgrading of Air New Zealand’s wine list. In particular I praised the recognition made of those who fill the greatest number of seats, the economy class passengers. Since then I have discovered that this was the first step in a general overhaul of the airline’s cabin services, and that two of the country’s foremost wine consultants have been retained to implement it.

At the Auckland Park Royal’s wine bar a gathering of wine writers and other assorted enthusiasts listened to John Buck and John Comerford outline the overall policy which can do nothing but improve the comfort of all passengers in all classes, whether flying to or from New Zealand. Both men have been around the New Zealand wine scene for some years and both are senior judges and wine consultants. John Comerford is a Wellington lawyer, while John Buck is managing director of Te Mata Estate in Hawke’s Bay, a company which has acquired an international reputation for its red wines in the short space of 10 years. We learned that everything is due for a revamp — menus, crockery, cutlery, seating, and decor. It is important. 1 . that the standard of wines should reflect the general standard of excellence which is the aim of the country’s national flag carrier.

Of the 120 licensed grape wine makers in New Zealand invited to submit samples, 88 complied. These were assessed on the basis of flavour and drinkability, consistent with their suitability for a wide range of menus and an equally wide range of palates. The first object of the two consultants, as I had discovered, was economy class. Gone were the

muller thurgaus, the generic blends, and the hybrid reds, to be replaced with Rhine riesling, varietal white blends, and varietal reds.

The next step was to rake over first class and then business class, in that order. We were there for a preview of the goodies that were in store for first class passengers. The symbol of opulence, champagne, has always been a feature of first class travel. Until recently Mumms was the chosen brand but, with the review, it has now been replaced with Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin “La Grande Dame” 1983 — and it is a blockbuster. In fact, Veuve Cliquot was almost tempted to designate it the harvest of the century. A big, broad, creamy wine, with an exceptional bouquet, it is sheer delight. The reason for choosing a French champagne was that, strangely enough, only one New Zealand methode champenoise wine was submitted to the consultants. It was “not from an expected source” they said, which means that it was not Montana’s.

I have a private conviction that Montana is holding back until the first bottling of Champagne Deutz is ready. The last report from the company was that its development was well up to expecta-

tions. Cooper’s Creek fume blanc 1988 was, perhaps, the least impressive of the new introductions. Made from grapes grown just outside of Gisborne and fermented at a higher temperature than normal, it does not have the big fragrance of the Marlborough’ styles. Nevertheless, it is dry and aromatic, and offers an alternative to the Marlborough wine which will be retained in the selection. New Zealand Chardonnay could not be better represented than by Collards Rothesay 1987. Beautifully balanced and with a soft fruity finish, it is of a quality which, as the well travelled John Buck commented, is not often, if ever, seen on an airline. In view of Matua Valley’s skill with red wines in recent vintages, it was pleasing to see that they are represented, in

this case with 1987 merlot. The colour extraction is good, showing deep red with purple hues. It has a rich bouquet leading to a full palate with well balanced tannin, but with a soft finish. Although I have heard a great deal of Martinborough pinot noir, this was my first experience with it. I felt that I was fortunate I was 7 able to sample the award and trophy winning 1988.

Made from fully ripe fruit, and developed in French oak for 12 months, the winemaker, Larry McKenna, describes it as the flagship of the range and the best he has ever produced. It has also been named as one of the best produced in New Zealand. Hear! Hear! It is superb.

One would think that any wine following the pinot noir would suffer by comparison, but no!

Kumeu River Merlot Cabernet 1987 is another great drinking wine. Perfect ripening conditions and almost two years’ ageing in Bordeaux barriques has resulted in a beautifully mellow wine with a lingering finish.

Mind you, the winemaker, Michael Brajkovich, made history this year by becoming

New Zealand’s first Master of Wine.

Although the wine lists have now been decided there will still be quite a degree of flexibility. That certain wines have been chosen does not mean all of the others have been cast aside for ever and a day.

it is the intention to make periodical alterations, about three or four times a year. There is still also a certain amount of stock on hand which, because of the way in which the airline is affected by customs duty, must be used. In the meantime, a wide choice is available.

I have no doubt that, if al! the other services are up to the same standard as the wine, those who are prepared to pay the extra for V.I.P. treatment on Air New Zealand will consider that they are getting good value for money.