Michaels 178 High Street Phone 60-822 8.Y.0.

Press, 25 February 1987, Page 30

Michaels 178 High Street Phone 60-822 8.Y.0.

By

HELEN SIMPSON

The welcoming atmosphere at Michaels begins with the warm pink decor, giving a cosy, intimate effect, and is quickly reinforced by the complimentary sherries offered to guests on arrival. Baskets of fresh, inseason fruit on a sideboard and an abundance of flowers, in large arrangements at the side of the room as well as in smaller ones on the tables, reinforced the impression that this was more like a private dinner party than a restaurant.

The menu at Michaels can be loosely characterised as Mediterranean in style, with dishes ranging in origin from Spain to the Middle East.

There was just one ap-

petiser — crudites with two sauces ($5.85). This was available either for one or for the whole table. Peter and I decided to share an order for one.

In fact, three or four people would probably have found enough to nibble on in the generous platter of chilled raw vegetables (plus four quail’s eggs). There were two sauces as dips, one of them quite hot-tasting, the other a milder concoction. There was plenty of eye appeal in the colourful radishes, green peppers, tomatoes, green beans, green onions, mushrooms and cucumber on a bed of lettuce.

Two soups were on offer — chilled tomato and sweet basil, and

cream of mushroom and walnut (each $4.55).

Peter chose the mushroom and walnut, which turned out to be a most interesting soup, thick and savoury, the textures and flavours of the nuts and mushrooms interacting to the decided benefit of both.

My tomato soup was iced, and garnished with a sprig of basil. The flavour was hot as well as sweet, with the basil a delicate underscoring to the sharp tomato flavour. The entrees offered an enticing range of options; Peter settled for crab mousseline with prawn and whisky sauce ($9.85). This proved to be a delicious dish, light and flavoursome, the crabmeat topped with a rich prawn

sauce. A garnishing of mint and slices of lime added to the eye appeal.

I ordered champignons pepe — mushrooms filled with spices, walnuts, herbs and cheese baked in pastry and served with sour cream ($7.85). It looked attractive, accompanied by slices of pink melon, and it proved to be very rich and tasty, but another time I would probably choose something lighter. The complimentary grapefruit and tequila sorbet served after the entrees was a nice touch. Palates refreshed, we were ready to tackle the main course.

There were six mains to choose from, an interesting selection, with most meat preferences catered for, as well as a vegetarian option.

Peter chose Iranian fricassee of pork — pork

braised in a sauce of figs, apricots and orange, lightly spiked with brandy ($19.25). Small pieces of meat came smothered in a potent, fruity sauce, very sweet and intense. I opted for pescado celestine ($17.45). This consisted of orange roughy fillets gently poached in white wine and served with a sauce of tomato, capers, fresh herbs and raisins. Garnished with mint and strips of lime skin and accompanied by lemon wedges, the fish was tender and delicate-flavoured and nicely complemented by the pungent, herby sauce. A large bowl of green salad accompanied the

mains and the vegetables (thinly sliced, lightly cooked courgettes and browned potatoes) were served at the table. The desserts offered temptations ranging from

strawberry and walnut cake to Spanish chocolate mousse. Peter chose glace au cafe — home-made coffee ice-cream with mocha sauce ($7.25) and I ordered raspberry cardinal — fresh raspberries with strawberry sauce on meringue ($6.10).

The ice-cream was delicious — airy and light with a thick, strong mocha sauce. Served in a tall glass and garnished with slivers of green grape, it looked as good as it tasted. More fruit than meringue, the raspberry cardinal was light and fresh — a very acceptable end to the meal. Peter ordered coffee

($2.10). Although it was not on the menu, I requested herb tea and was delighted to be offered “herbs of tranquillity” — just the thing, and it came in a charming antique silver tea service, which was worth having on the table if only to look at.

With our drinks we were offered complimentary Turkish delight — typical of the gestures that had made us feel well looked after all evening.

Our bill came to $82.80, which seemed reasonable, given the number of courses we had had and the quality of the food, service and surroundings.