Imperial Swan 142 Armagh Street Phone 793-226 B.Y.O.

Press, 25 February 1987, Page 30

Imperial Swan 142 Armagh Street Phone 793-226 B.Y.O.

By

MAURICE HUNTER

We have dined at the Imperial Swan several times and have rarely been disappointed. On this occasion nothing much appeared to have been changed in the years since our first visit — portraits of venerable old Chinese gentlemen on the walls, red lanterns, comfortable seating at tables simply set with red table cloths, rice bowls, standard wine glasses, paper table napkins of heavier quality than usual, bamboo chopsticks, and spoons — presumably for those who do not wish to wrestle with chopsticks. But changes are, in fact, on the way. The Imperial Swan has recently changed hands. The former owner, Uncle Lim,

has departed hence, and there is no longer an association with the Shades Restaurant, the ownership having been transferred to Mr Kim Leung who also owns the Hong Kong Restaurant in High Street.

Interior redecoration is to be undertaken and the staff will shortly be presented in bright new uniforms. Since the restaurant seats 130, the ventilation system is to be improved, the chef will be given new impetus with the provision of enlarged menus and new dishes will be introduced. The most obvious change necessary is one which involves co-opera-tion with others in renewing the worn and stained carpet on the stairs leading from the street en-

trance. As it is now, it is not a good introduction. Inside the restaurant some of the menus are beginning to show the ravages of time. Apart from that everything was neat and tidy reflecting good management control. Dishes, once emptied, were not allowed to clutter the tables and the service was prompt and quietly efficient. In view of my untidy eating habits with chopsticks, I was glad to note that the tablecloths were changed after every group of diners. It was comforting to think that I was not alone.

One of the small delights in Chinese cuisine is the provision of a pot of tea. Hardly had we ordered it than it was on the table and we sipped the fragrant 'beverage while deciding on the meal.

To enjoy the greatest variety of food, it is better to gather several people together but, since we were only two, we had to pass up the hors d'oeuvres consisting of chicken wings, spring rolls, Chin-

ese pork chops and chicken rolls at $4.25 a head, but with a minimum charge of $12.70. Perhaps this is one of the changes which will be effected. From a choice of three soups ($3 a serving) we chose wonton. Nicely spiced and hot, there could have been a little more soup, but the wontons as, indeed, all the dishes, comprised a generous serving.

From there we progressed to an entree of pan fried honey pork ($8.30), deliciously tender and succulent, in company with slices of cucumber and tomato and strips of green pepper, setting the taste buds up in no mean fashion. The main course menu consisted of a stir fry section of five beef dishes, three chicken, three seafood, four vegetarian, crispy skin poultry, Imperial duckling (one day advance order) and, in the sweet and sour section, four chicken, four pork, four seafood and three house specials. While not as extensive as some Chinese menus;

there was ample selection for all palates and pockets, with prices ranging from around $8 to $9 for small servings to $26.90 for the Imperial duckling.

Our choice was for a small serving each of chicken with cashew nuts ($8.60), chilli prawns ($11.20) and Young Zhow fried rice ($8.30). The chicken, served with onion pieces, green pepper and diced carrot, with a good sprinkling of crunchy cashews, was eminently satisfactory, while the chilli prawns, which arrived sizzling on a hot plate, 12 in number (we counted every one!) were accompanied by chopped pepper, onions, courgettes and pineapple in a rich chilli sauce and were quite delightful. Filling our bowls with fried rice, we dived from one to the other, having a wonderful time and savouring every mouthful.

Dessert in a Chinese restaurant is simply a concession to European taste. The choice was between brandy snaps, banana split, ice-cream

sundae and gateaux ($4.40). My wife chose brandy snaps — two of them filled with cream and served with ice-cream and a nice selection of fruits in which lychees, mandarin segments and cherries provided the Chinese touch ($4.40). Very tasty, I was told. Perhaps we may hope for cheese and crackers to provide a further concession to European taste at some future time. Cona coffee at $1.50 completed a most enjoyable meal at a total cost of $50.30 for two.

In addition to a la carte dining, the Imperial Swan provides a set menu for $20.50 per person (dessert $3 extra), which I would call a reasonably filling meal, and a much more satisfactory special menu for $24.20 (dessert $4.40 extra) including GST and corkage, for a minimum of five persons.

Ail this and a bottle of Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc ’B6, fresh and fruity, added up to one of the best Chinese meals we have enjoyed.