‘Honourable’ exit for climbers

Press, 8 March 1984, Page 26

‘Honourable’ exit for climbers

PA Wellington A request by the Prime Minister, Sir Robert Muldoon, for a party of Japanese deaf-mute climbers to leave Mount Cook late last year may have been the only honourable way out of the situation that developed, according to the Federated Mountain Clubs.

Its president, Mr Hugh Barr, writing in the federation’s March bulletin, said the situation arose because of three factors: the climbers were disabled, with all the publicity this created; serious language communication problems existed; and on evidence available, the expedition had been inadequately planned and lacked experience of New Zealand conditions. “A number of noted New Zealand climbers have seen this incident as a potential threat to the freedom of mountaineers and as a black mark against New Zealand’s international mountaineering reputation,” he said. “We believe their fears are unfounded as this case concerns solely disabled climbers in a rather unusual set of circumstances. The Prime Minister himself has said that in no way does he see his actions as a precedent”

Mr Barr said the Mount Cook National Park chief ranger had received a request from the climbers for

information on climbing the mountain in late 1982.

The chief ranger had replied and recommended the use of an interpreter, the need to stay a reasonable time to become familiar with New Zealand conditions, the group consider using guides, and to contact other Japanese who had climbed Mount Cook.

The Japanese group had then approached an alpine guide company, requesting a single guide for their nine climbers. When the company suggested a minimum of four guides, in line with the Mountain Guides’ Association policy of at least one guide for every two climbers, the Japanese decided not to use any guide. Last December 29, the nine climbers approached Mount Cook ranger staff to

record their intentions of climbing the mountain during the five days they were in New Zealand. It was their first communication with the ranger staff for more than a year, Mr Barr said, and the group had neither an interpreter nor local guide.

At the time the weather was fine but there was a serious avalanche danger in the area.

Mr Barr said the chief ranger found communication with the party extremely difficlt, eventually conversing in . written messages via the Hermitage’s interpreter. “The chief ranger gained the impression the climbers did not understand what avalanche and crevasse danger was. He was concerned for their safety and suggested an easier aceti-

matisation climb.”

But the Japanese were determined to continue and flew on to the mountain that afternoon.

Mr Barr said the Prime Minister had also become concerned for the climbers’ well-being and had apChed the Japanese Amdor, who, after contacting Tokyo, had agreed to support any decision by the New Zealand Government The request for the climbers to leave the mountain was made jointly with the Ambassador at 4 p.m. on December 30, and the party was taken out by helicopter by 7.30 p.m. They later climbed Mount Egmont

Mr Barr said no laws gave legal powers to remove climbers from a mountain ... "the Prime Minister’s request was legally only that.”

“The Prime Minister’s actions are unprecedented in the annals of mountaineering, as far as we know. “On the facts available to us, it appears the Prime Minister may have had grounds for concern. At the time, events moved very fast, and there was little time for careful reflection. "The exact capabilities of the climbers will probably never be determined. The best solution would have been for the climbers to have heeded local advice," Mr Barr said. “However, the essence of any sport where there is a risk involved is the right of the participant to choose the risks he or she thinks appropriate for his or her level of skill and experience. There is no permanent place for the bureaucrat or politician in the process.”