Cooking up noxious weeds

Press, 4 September 1982, Page 16

Cooking up noxious weeds

The Countryside Cookbook. By Gail Duff. Illustrated by Linda Garland. Prism Press, 1982. $24.95. (Reviewed by Thelma Strongman) This is a most attractive book in the food-for-free and herbal-remedy traditions. Although produced in England, it is aimed at the world market and is notable for the author’s awareness of a southern hemisphere — even if New Zealand is mostly seen as part of Australasia. Many of the hedgerow plants of the English countryside have become so established in New Zealand that they are classified as noxious weeds. It is therefore a matter of rather primitive satisfaction to be able to consume some of these plants in pies, sandwiches, stews and pickles in order to aid their demise. Chickweed, fat hen, dandelion, hawthorn, and blackberry can all be eaten in different ritualistic fashions. Especially appealing are rose petal jelly, wild strawberry syllabub, and lime leaf and soured cream sandwiches. Our large local supply of ornamental crab apples is another source, provided that we are willing to sacrifice their decorative value in winter. Another abundant local plant is the übiquitous walnut. Recipes in which these can be used include pumpkin and walnut pie and kiwi fruit salad. Meadowsweet with apricots sounds so delicious that it seems worthwhile trying to obtain roots or seeds of this delightful plant.

. The recipes, however, are not restricted to food. The medicinal, cosmetic and veterinarian uses are also considered. The book is divided into sections, each pertaining to one of the seasons. It is well organised and attractively set out. The full page colour illustrations are a delight. Each plant is illustrated in the foreground against the particular background of the English countryside which is its habitat. The illustrator has been much influenced by the countryside of Cornwall and tc those who know the area, the paintings are evocative of the feeling of south-west England. The essential equipment for these hedgerow and field activities seems to be a good pair of gumboots and gardening gloves. The ingenue is warned, however, to take expert advice or a field guide for identification before collecting and consuming the produce, as accidental poisoning may ensue. Even the more sophisticated in New Zealand need to be constantly aware of the possibility of the area having been sprayed. A 245 T sandwich might prove to be a bleak experience. Another unwanted condiment is a liberal sprinkling of lead from petrol on plants found .growing close to a highway. , . , Safely harvested, the ingredients of “The Countryside Cookbook" should produce interesting experiences. The price is reasonable and the book is so beautifully produced that one will not want to risk its use in the normal atmosphere of the kitchen.