Clothing Royalty

Press, Volume CIX, Issue 32274, 17 April 1970, Page 2

Clothing Royalty

Ask any child to shut her eyes and picture a queen, and she will imagine some shimmering being clothed in gossamer, with raindrop diamonds in her crown, probably waving a shining wand. I often wish I had had a shining wand to wave, and thus spell out a little magic for me. For there are many problems in connection with designing for Royalty which the average person does not know.

Viewers all over the world saw the recent documentary Him about the royal family. Many women have since written to me about the scenes showing the Queen looking through my sketches with her dresser, remarking about the number of factors, other than fashion, which apparently have to be taken into consideration.

This is certainly the case. Remember that the Queen cannot so much as alter her hairstyle too drastically in case she appears too different from her image on coins and stamps. , Indeed, at every turn, royal women are handicapped by fashion considerations unknown to “Mrs Average ” For example, the Queen cannot wear the same dress twice on similar occasions, in case some guests have long memories.

No royal woman through history has really made l fashion headlines, for she. must never be a trendsetter! in the sense of wearing out-, rageous or extreme garments: —even if she might want to.

Queen Elizabeth has been named “the world’s worstdressed woman,” by the American designer, Richard Blackwell, in his annual “worst dressed list.” Mr Blackwell says of the Queen, “Let’s not blame her for those dowdy clothes, let’s blame her dressmaker Norman Hartnell. Hartnell is terribly antiquated tn his fashion concepts. In this article Norman Hartnell strikes back.

Instead they have chosen the safe waters of intermediate fashion: the timeless elegance of “safe” hemlines rather than extremes such as minis or maxis.

They have to wear fairly light colours so that they stand out in a crowd; off-the-face hats, so that the public and photographers can get a clear view of their faces.

Seldom can the Queen

choose exactly what she wants —something that ordinary people do every time they shop.

, Royal women are shown collections of sketches at [least twice a year, and more 'often when a royal tour is scheduled, so there is (obviously no scope for i impulse-buying. The Queen also has about eight fittings for each garment in her wardrobe. It must fit her like the proverbial glove as so many millions of eyes will see it, scrutinise it, and criticise. She needs to bear in mind

the State or heirloom jewellery custom expects her to wear with the garments. Not for a Queen a leisurely browse round elegant shops for accessories such as hats, shoes, gloves, and handbags.

A limited selection of suitable accessories is sent to her once her basic wardrobe is decided, and she must choose from these or on rare occasions have them made up to her own specifications, i The Queen must constantly acknowledge public greeting by waving, so dolman sleeves are virtually a necessity. So are loose lines—tight clothes would “ride” with too much: waving. So, next time you feel | envious when reading about! a royal wardrobe, just think; about the impositions, the rules, the etiquette, and the I limitations.

For perhaps the greatest; luxury of all is being able to choose exactly-what you want; to wear. New Trends People say 1 have a “down" i on trendy things, and am [ inclined to be old-fashioned and conservative in my taste. This is not true, but certainly 1 am much more of a “classic” stylist than a “gimmick” couturier. For example, my present “down” is on lounging pyjamas. The are creeping more and more on to the party scene. The seventies-style loung- [ ing pyjama is with us, howlever, and looks staying for a while You will find it i [made by both lingerie houses; and fashion houses, and it is I generally sleeveless. coHarless, in bright geometric i prints or flaming colours. It looks like any pair of elegant pyjamas, except for its fabric print and colour, and follows every curve. Since some curves are unwanted, plump women should not wear them.

There is nothing particularly new about this trend—--10 or 15 years ago, Emilio Pucci brought out silk palazzo pyjamas. But these were exotic, expensive evening clothes, and nobody could mistake them for bedtime wear.

But, today, when I see fashionable women in lounging pyjamas I am never sure whether to say “good evening,” or “good night"