MISCELLANEOUS HINTS

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31680, 16 May 1968, Page 11

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS

Slip-basting is used on the right side of the garment when alterations are needed; also for matching up seams in stripe or plaid fabrics.

Hand ■ Pick Stitch. A decorative finish on collars and lapels of tailored garments is generally done with buttonhole twist or embroidery thread. A small backstitch is taken on the outside and a longer stitch between the fabric layers before bringing the needle to the outside again. When making darts, the point must taper to nothing; there should be no “bubble" at the end. Darts, used to help mould the garment fabric to fit the body, should be shaped by pressing over a rounded surface, such as a “tailors’ ham.” Thread.—Use one shade darker than the colour of the garment you are making. Mercerised cotton is most generally used and Is satisfactory for most types of fabric. On silk or wool, silk thread is often used.

Perfect Hems.—When pinning hem in place, match the seam lines, then adjust fullness between seams. After adjusting fullness, steam shrink, with the iron, as much of the fullness as possible. A piece of heavy cardboard placed between hem and dress will prevent the dress shrinking also. When using tape on the edge of the hem, use bias tape—cotton bias on cottons, rayon on wools, silk on synthetics. Stitching bias seams In sheer fabrics.—Pin on baste to tissue paper, the two edges to be joined. Stitch seam and tear away the tissue. This will prevent the drawing that sometimes occurs. A Tailor's Clopper is especially useful on hard-to-press fabrics and enclosed seams. It is a thick, smooth piece of wood which you can grip, and is used to flatten a seam after it has been steamed.