Advanced Alpine Course

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31659, 20 April 1968, Page 14

Advanced Alpine Course

Seventeen mountaineers, all with at least five seasons of intensive climbing experience, took part in the New Zealand Alpine Club’s adv a n c e d instruction course in the Mount Cook National Park during Easter. They came from Wellington, Christchurch, Auckland, Nelson, Dunedin, Invercargill, Gore, Winton and Roxburgh. The course was promoted and subsidised by the Alpine Club and planned by its instruction sub - committee convened by Mr E. R. Sadd, of Wellington. Organisation and instruction were carried

out by Alpine Instruction. Ltd, under the direction of Mr B. Jenkinson. The other instructors were Messrs P. Farrell (Christchurch), R. Miller (Invercargill), and L. Crawford (Christchurch). The aims of the course were to raise the general standard of mountaineering within the club, to provide a basis for good mountaineering instruction, to demonstrate and practise the latest techniques, and to promote the efficiency of high level rescue in the Mount Cook area. Mr Crawford said the club believed that good instruction could only be given by experienced climbers, currently active, climbing at a good standard and aware of all the psychological problems that confront the less experienced climber. The standard of climbing, techni-

i cal and general ability of all persons attending the course were exceptionally high. Snow had settled and continued to fall to low levels during the course. Temperatures were cold and rock was iced. Techniques Revised The course opened with an introductory lecture in the Ball Hut. This was followed by practical instruction on the Caroline icefall during which techniques for rock and ice climbing were revised, and specialist and standard equipment used. Artificial ice climbing was {carried out on the lower iceI fall on the second day. Front point crampons, ice screws, slings and prussiks were used. Face rescue, using! equipment improvised from | standard climbing gear,; was practised in the after-1 noon. The next day one group i climbed to Plateau Hut by! way of Haast Ridge and' Glacier Dome. The other group climbed by way of the; eastern slopes and face of Anzac Peaks and the Grand Plateau to Plateau Hut. Both groups returned to Ball Hut Iby way of Freshfield Glacier. The course concluded on Easter Monday with a I lecture on modern alpine equipment, summary of the course and discussion. The photograph shows ! Mr Farrell demonstrating i the use of ice screws, ! double rope, sling and | etriers in artificial ice climbing.