DIOR HEMS UP

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31588, 27 January 1968, Page 2

DIOR HEMS UP

HN.Z.P.A.-Reuter—Copyright) PARIS, Jan. 25. Christian Dioi today brought back the 1930 s in every detail—except the hemline. His spring fashion collection featured pre-war styles in pleated skirts, belted waists, cardigans, berets and fedora hats, and pale white stockings. The Dior collection opened with a group of trouser suits, recalling Marlene Dietrich’s pants, which widened gradually towards the ankles. They were shown with hip-length tunic overblouses, and cardigan jackets. The accessories were tight-fitting felt berets and long bias-cut scarves, looped around the throat with the end trailing down the back. Dresses had long tubular bodices with 12in-wide pleated hem-bands, and waists belted with 3in-wide elastic cinchers or draped sashes. Necklines were collarless, worn with the long, bias-cut scarves looped round the throat. Sleeves were long, ending in snug shirt cuffs. A

few models revived the old leg-o’-mutton sleeves. Marc Bohan’s coats were simple and restrained. Child ish redingots with high waistlines had yokes fitted tightly across the bosom, and flared skirts. The hems, however, were higher than ever for Dior—up to two inches above the knee. Shirts and sweaters established the leading silhouette theme, with belts around the natural waistline to narrow chains circling the hips. . The Dior designer Bohan, followed the thirties through from the subtle crepe fabrics to the flowing makeup, dark red lipstick and Rita Hayworth hairstyle. Suits ranged from the short blazer with box-pleated skirts and tuck-in shirts to fingertip length jackets teamed to long bloused which resembled tunics. Day dresses had elongated tops and pleated skirts or high-waisted bodices with the midrift clinched by wide elastic belts. Late-day themes showed a Moorish influence, with harem pants, slave chains, tunics and turbans or frilled and fluttering chiffon dresses in the style of Mary Pickford.